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Old Sep 16, 2010, 11:41 AM
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Sweden
Joined Jan 2010
567 Posts
I have the opposite problem, to get all my arms level at mid-stick they are slightly too short, which has led to one crash for me due to the links popping of the rod! I am atm flying with my washout-arms and mixer arms not quite level, but servo-arms 90-degrees though. I've bougt new link-rod sets now, I will check to see if they are better.

Regarding the tail, I will try to set it up in rate mode and see if that helps.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandos View Post
Regarding the tail, I will try to set it up in rate mode and see if that helps.
If you didn't set up your trim in rate mode, and you didn't do the 3 switches back and forth to teach your gyro trim in heading hold, then I guarantee that is why your tail is not holding!

I'll say it again, the instructions with the 401 clone gyros suck. If you are not 100% sure you know exactly how to set these up, then follow the directions for the Futaba 401 from the start to the end. There are several small things that if you do not get right or skip, will really make it impossible to get a good setup. The big ones are: always power on gyro in HH mode, always make sure heli is level and still until gyro initializes (several seconds to solid red light), and mechanically trim gyro in rate mode first, then switch 3 times between the two to trim in HH mode.

You must do all of this if you expect your 401 clone gyro to perform at all.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 01:20 PM
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Another thing for those having tail problems with the 401 clone gyros. Make sure you do the gyro mods explained in several places. A quick google search will find them for you, but basically you need to take off the gyro case, use some 5 minute epoxy to glue the boards together, and use some foam tape in a few places to 'soft mount' the boards inside the plastic case. Some of my 401 clones had free movement of the mother board inside the case, which will most definitely cause problems. A little movement when you press on the adjustment pots is ok, you want this soft mount feeling. The good news is once you make this fix, and figure out how they need to be seutp, they seem to perform just as good as the real 401, at least for most sport flying.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Sweden
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
They were all loctited, really good even since my bearingblocks has come loose before. I know I cheated sligtly with balancing my main blades, theyre off 0.1g and a few mms, maybe 5 in COG. I will have to go through it a bit more thoroughly this weekend.
I forgot something, I think I now know what caused my (bigger) problems, the so-called soft-start on the plush 40A is not very soft, I inadvertently gave 60-80% throttle from standstill, the bird did a 360 really quickly. This is likely what almost ripped my bearing holders apart, and tore the main gear up!
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Last edited by sandos; Sep 17, 2010 at 02:46 AM.
Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:05 PM
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asennad's Avatar
Joined Jun 2003
180 Posts
I had a minor crash and now the main blades - the cheap plastic ones that came with the kit - are a little curved in the middle. I was thinking they don't look too bad and may be fixed by applying some heat.

Should they be tossed or they still OK to use? When should I replace the blades?
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Barak1001's Avatar
USA, AL, Hanceville
Joined May 2008
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What would be easier to do, save a few dollars and risk causing major damage on your helicopter or buy a cheap set of CF or wood blades for under $12?

I personally won't fly a set of blades those shows any damage at all.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:35 PM
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USA, CA, Thousand Oaks
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asennad View Post
I had a minor crash and now the main blades - the cheap plastic ones that came with the kit - are a little curved in the middle. I was thinking they don't look too bad and may be fixed by applying some heat.

Should they be tossed or they still OK to use? When should I replace the blades?
sounds like its time to upgrade!
You would be better off upgrading to these blades http://www.xheli.com/60p-pro-3251.html for 8 bucks than worrying about your current ones everytime you go to fly
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 05:47 PM
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I prefer these blades.

http://cgi.ebay.com/325mm-Carbon-Fib...item5adc131a63

They are little more expensive at $14.70 shipped, but they are perfectly balanced and a bit lighter than the ones Xheli sells.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 06:04 PM
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USA, CA, Thousand Oaks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barak1001 View Post
I prefer these blades.

http://cgi.ebay.com/325mm-Carbon-Fib...item5adc131a63

They are little more expensive at $14.70 shipped, but they are perfectly balanced and a bit lighter than the ones Xheli sells.
I've never seen them. I don't know why but I HATE ordering off ebay.
They seem like good blades though.
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 06:05 PM
Look Ma, no hands!
126jp's Avatar
Edenton, NC
Joined Jun 2009
72 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hogfarmer View Post
My links were almost perfect in length.

If your main shaft is not in the right position it will make setting this up impossible. Be sure your main shaft is in the correct position before you do anything else. To do this, first push the main shaft down from the top through the gears and install the Jesus bolt. Now with one hand (or your assistants hand) pinch the main gears up into the main bearings. With the other hand push the collar down from the top until it is tight against the top bearings, and tighten the grub screws. There should be no up and down play in the main shaft if you do this correctly.
+1 Exactly how I . . . ah . . . we did it, hogfarmer.

Jules
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Old Sep 16, 2010, 08:00 PM
MUPPETHUNTER
Texas
Joined Apr 2006
51 Posts
My servo arms are level, mid stick, when full negative I have just a Little clearance between the swash and collar and my servo arm to swash links are about to come out...they are at the ends of their threads just about. I started with the 450SA manual link lengths and went from there. (using calipers) At mid stick I can't get the upper links short enough because they bottom out and strip. I "thought" about shortening the servo arm to swash links and setting full negative with end point adjustment to give me clearance between the swash and collar...... This seems to be the only way I'm going to get what I need other than cutting the rods down some. I done this before so its not like it new to me....could be just something I'm overlooking.


Not that it matter but I bought these kits about 2 years ago or when they first came out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hogfarmer View Post
My links were almost perfect in length.

If your main shaft is not in the right position it will make setting this up impossible. Be sure your main shaft is in the correct position before you do anything else. To do this, first push the main shaft down from the top through the gears and install the Jesus bolt. Now with one hand (or your assistants hand) pinch the main gears up into the main bearings. With the other hand push the collar down from the top until it is tight against the top bearings, and tighten the grub screws. There should be no up and down play in the main shaft if you do this correctly.

Now make sure your servos are centered and then sub trimmed so the arms are exactly level, and make sure the mixing arms are level, you should be able to set up the links without shortening them beyond their limits. If you still have problems I think maybe your long and/or short mixing links in the head are too long, essentially pushing the swash down when the mixing arms are set level.

Also just a side note that will be obvious to most people but is worth mentioning, once you have a link set to the proper length make sure roughly the same amount of threads are showing on both ends. You don't want it screwed all the way in on one side and about to fall off on the other.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 01:56 AM
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765 Posts
roady89, if you haven't already, I would suggest checking out finless bob's setup videos, especially ccpm setup 1 and 2.

He will walk you through the setup, you start at the bottom (servos) and work up. You should be able to set your swash level and in the correct place with the stock link rods despite what is going on above. The setup video will explain all of this very clearly.

On the other hand, if your kit is 2 years old, maybe they fixed some things since then. New linkage sets can't be very expensive...
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 02:39 AM
MUPPETHUNTER
Texas
Joined Apr 2006
51 Posts
Oh yea, that's what I've been doing. I watched those on my first 2 builds.

I'll have some time tonight and this weekend to get it figured out. I think I just need to sit down in front of the vids and start over fresh. It's got to be something simple.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hogfarmer View Post
roady89, if you haven't already, I would suggest checking out finless bob's setup videos, especially ccpm setup 1 and 2.

He will walk you through the setup, you start at the bottom (servos) and work up. You should be able to set your swash level and in the correct place with the stock link rods despite what is going on above. The setup video will explain all of this very clearly.

On the other hand, if your kit is 2 years old, maybe they fixed some things since then. New linkage sets can't be very expensive...
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 02:47 AM
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Sweden
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I forgot something, I think I now know what caused my (bigger) problems with screws coming of, the so-called soft-start on the plush 40A is not very soft, I inadvertently gave 60-80% throttle from standstill, the bird did a 360 really quickly. This is likely what almost ripped my bearing holders apart, and tore the main gear up!
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 08:37 AM
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United States, NC, Hertford
Joined Oct 2007
16,468 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandos View Post
I forgot something, I think I now know what caused my (bigger) problems with screws coming of, the so-called soft-start on the plush 40A is not very soft, I inadvertently gave 60-80% throttle from standstill, the bird did a 360 really quickly. This is likely what almost ripped my bearing holders apart, and tore the main gear up!
WOW. I always start my heli in normal mode with a 0-25-50-and so on curve that way that didnt happen. I am now useing the castle creations ICE 50 and that has a sloooooooooooow start. I can start that in idle up with no issues. The only thing is once you commet to and auto there is no going back b/c it takes to long to spool back up
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