Originally Posted by Tom Eutsler

Now that I have a real AXN in my hands. Does not appear to be as simple set up as I thought .
1. Is the Carbon Fiber rod glued into one wing , or in both wings ? or maybe not at all
2. Wires to Elev and Rud are pulled all the way up and tite - If I loosen the screw [that holds the wire ]on servo arm , NOT sure I have any tool to hold tiny nut , in order to tighten after adjusting them out to Elev & Rud . One Servo was just hanging loose within Fuse - the other secured with ? glue and snug
3. Aileron servo wires ? trying to figure out how to run them down in bottom of wing saddle. There is a small rect slot but it is behind where servo wires exit bottom of the wing May have to gouge out another hole down in Fuse ?
Instructions supplied are far toooo techinal for me
I'm sure, someone on here has some wisdom and knowledge to share
...........te

Control rods to elevator and rudder ... 1. Make sure you exercise the two surfaces first! (Rudder and Elevator) 2. Get rid of the z bend on the rods (cut it off so that you only have a 90 degree bend) get yourself something like a Dubro EZ Link connector and just use the 90 degree bend on the end (means you will be able to dismantle at another point) use something like shrink tube to keep connector on.

Servos ... use hot glue gun (a hobby one that isn't too hot!!) dab in glue plop in servo make sure all are centered properly before you finalise link rods etc.. be careful with Y cable for elevators find best routing option so wings go together best ... (I put mine in fuse by enlarging hole in wing cavity.) This is 3 on your list

Kit should have come with a hex key from memory?? this will do the connectors on the servos -- NB aileron linkages do not need dubro connectors you can get at them easily.

Throw it together

(Making sure you fit wings first to ensure tailplane is correct when it is glued (I use 5 min Epoxy for this joint - roughed up a bit with glass paper first and poked with tooth pick for good glue area) )

Fly the wings off it

One advanced question on this plane...

-Aileron differential

Anyone has it? does it work in this kind of plane (with dihedral curved wingtips) and how should it be setup..

Im asking this at this stage after more than a year with it cause the other day i found a rather embarrasing fact.. i wasnt using aileron differential when i tought i was..

When i first setup ailerons in this plane due to my ignorance i used endpoints to set that differential..but that just sets up the limit for movement and not gives anydifferential unless using full stick (found this on my SIG Ninja while at the field after having a bit of adverse yaw with it in some conditions and wondering what it was when i found out my big embarrasing mistake)..

While doing some research on aileron differential it seems standard to asign more throw to the top aileron than the bottom one.. but also steped on some guide wich says that if the aileron is hinged at the top rather than the midle ..aileron differential should be inverted (more throw downward than upwards)... and the CF has the ailerons hinged at the top..

So bilded here... anyone can throw some light (we can allways do experimenting on the subjetc)

Originally Posted by victapilot

Sometimes the shaft needs some encouragement with a hammer, otherewise a good checklist!

Also, I have sometimes used a Dremel to create a new groove, or if lazy, cut a notch, put on a wheel collar and screw the set screw into the notch.

I don't think I would suggest using a Dremel to make a new groove. Not thin enough or sharp enough. On the other hand, grinding a hollow in the shaft and using a wheel collar is OK, but unnecessary in some configurations. A wheel collar is really only needed for a (higher power) outside the firewall tractor or a through the firewall pusher.

Originally Posted by JLT_GTI

One advanced question on this plane...

-Aileron differential

I did that.
Later on, I killed it.
Difference: with differential the aileron steering (in every way) is a lot les effective. I felt the need to mix in rudder to get a more tactile feeling.
Personally, I like the steering without the differential better.

The differential is supposed to prevent yaw. But I don't notice any negative effect.

Originally Posted by theothercliff

I don't think I would suggest using a Dremel to make a new groove. Not thin enough or sharp enough. On the other hand, grinding a hollow in the shaft and using a wheel collar is OK, but unnecessary in some configurations. A wheel collar is really only needed for a (higher power) outside the firewall tractor or a through the firewall pusher.

The thinnest cutoff disk works ok, I mount the shaft in a drill and secure the drill, makes it like a lathe. Then run the Dremel against the rotating shaft - wear eye protection.

I used the collar to replace the spring clips that went zinging off into deep dark spaces of my garage workshop. Eye protection recommended there too. I put an indent in the shaft as added security.

Originally Posted by JLT_GTI

One advanced question on this plane...

-Aileron differential

Anyone has it? does it work in this kind of plane (with dihedral curved wingtips) and how should it be setup..

Im asking this at this stage after more than a year with it cause the other day i found a rather embarrasing fact.. i wasnt using aileron differential when i tought i was..

When i first setup ailerons in this plane due to my ignorance i used endpoints to set that differential..but that just sets up the limit for movement and not gives anydifferential unless using full stick (found this on my SIG Ninja while at the field after having a bit of adverse yaw with it in some conditions and wondering what it was when i found out my big embarrasing mistake)..

While doing some research on aileron differential it seems standard to asign more throw to the top aileron than the bottom one.. but also steped on some guide wich says that if the aileron is hinged at the top rather than the midle ..aileron differential should be inverted (more throw downward than upwards)... and the CF has the ailerons hinged at the top..

So bilded here... anyone can throw some light (we can allways do experimenting on the subjetc)

If it flies for you, that is the important thing! This is absolutely not required, but correct aileron differential can make your rolls more axial.

Ailerons hinged at the top present more deflective surface when up (hinge to trailing edge) than when down (behind hinge to trailing edge) so they automatically have some differential built in.

I believe there are two reasons you want more up aileron:
- reduced adverse yaw (less of: left aileron acts like right rudder)
- there is "more air" (pressure) below and thus a down aileron is more effective than an up aileron

Differential is usually set up in the transmitter, but can be done mechanically by taking the servo arm off and rotating it 45 degrees (or less) and putting it back on, then adjusting the length of the pushrod to re-center the surface.

If you wanted to add more differential throw to the CF/FJ, you would rotate the servo arm forward 45 degrees (or less) and lengthen the pushrod a cm or so. You would probably have to trim some foam around the servo arm and pushrod. As that servo for that side gets close to rotated straight forward, further rotation doesn't pull the pushrod at all, while the other side is just getting to the maximum throw location on the servo arm (straight down).

Cliff

Originally Posted by victapilot

The thinnest cutoff disk works ok, I mount the shaft in a drill and secure the drill, makes it like a lathe. Then run the Dremel against the rotating shaft - wear eye protection.

I used the collar to replace the spring clips that went zinging off into deep dark spaces of my garage workshop. Eye protection recommended there too. I put an indent in the shaft as added security.

409's are all I use. The 420's are worthless IMO. The slot from a 409 (thin) cutoff wheel is thicker than the width of a small E-clip. Perhaps you were modding bigger motors...

I have heard that taking the clips off inside a large clear plastic bag is the way to do it. Never had a big enough bag when I needed it...

nice vid and info.Do you think the turnigy receiver will fit into that thing as you know that receiver is pretty large

Originally Posted by theothercliff

409's are all I use. The 420's are worthless IMO. The slot from a 409 (thin) cutoff wheel is thicker than the width of a small E-clip. Perhaps you were modding bigger motors...

I have heard that taking the clips off inside a large clear plastic bag is the way to do it. Never had a big enough bag when I needed it...

Yes, mostly motors with 4mm shaft and above. I also did some little ones but it's a last resort mod.

I get the 409's at 0.6mm thick, the typical groove in some spare 3mm shafts I have is 0.5mm, and the clips are 0.4mm thick. With the Dremel method on a 3mm shaft, there's some added slop but it's OK.

will turnigy 9x receiver fit in this thing

Originally Posted by evox

will turnigy 9x receiver fit in this thing

Yes

Built mine last night and as soon as I throttled her up it ran about 30 seconds and the motor started smoking. I was going to replace it anyway, but the motor must be crap!

Originally Posted by dmoores

Built mine last night and as soon as I throttled her up it ran about 30 seconds and the motor started smoking. I was going to replace it anyway, but the motor must be crap!

That's not very good!

I have one in my basket ready to order...but

Originally Posted by dmoores

Built mine last night and as soon as I throttled her up it ran about 30 seconds and the motor started smoking. I was going to replace it anyway, but the motor must be crap!

I think you must have lucked out - I have 3 - apart from magnet issues nary a problem with the motors and the 25amp esc's have been fine too.

So I would have to disagree with you calling the motors crap - I think you may have just got a bad one.

Originally Posted by JLT_GTI

-Aileron differential

Anyone has it? does it work in this kind of plane (with dihedral curved wingtips) and how should it be setup..

Yes - I use one to two notches on the servo spline and the standard rods to create mechanical differential. rolls are better but like Cliff said ... itsn't particularly necessary on this plane - I use it - I like it