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Old Jul 19, 2011, 10:57 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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How to play HK

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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Ordered the ARF from Hobbyking USA on July 5th. I had to get on line with HKing in Hong Kong to trace it. It was finally picked and packed today. STILL NO SHIPPING NOTICE. 14 days to pick and pack is ridiculous. I am picturing some small garage with one guy working part time shipping HK parts and planes. He must have been on vacation for the first two weeks of July. Geeze, what a bush league operation.
When dealing with HK, patience is a must. If you are ever in a hurry, use EMS shipping. Of course, that is about 5-10% more $$$.
AJ
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Old Jul 19, 2011, 11:02 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
When dealing with HK, patience is a must. If you are ever in a hurry, use EMS shipping. Of course, that is about 5-10% more $$$.
AJ
AJ,

I know, never be in a hurry but two weeks to pick and pack from the USA warehouse. Amateurs!

Bill
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Old Jul 19, 2011, 11:44 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
AJ,

I know, never be in a hurry but two weeks to pick and pack from the USA warehouse. Amateurs!

Bill
Yeah. I have been watching their pick-n-pack times decay a lot over the last 6 months. I sure hope they fix their problem. There are now several excellent vendors that would love to take our money. A year ago, they did not have so much competition. But now......
AJ
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:01 AM
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West Texas USA
Joined Mar 2008
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Motor mount.

Quote:
Any advise on how to bolt the new motor there? Should i use the X mount or should i bolt the motor directly to the support..
I bolted my motor directly to the black plastic Clouds Fly motor mount. I did not use the x-mount.
The motor is pushing against the mount, not pulling away from it. The thin plastic mount has not been an issue for me, and I have had
two different motors mounted to the Clouds Fly in this manner.
Here (#2062) is what I did.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by struggleforlife View Post
may I give a suggestion regarding your motor mount?

I would try to use TWO towerpro mounts.

One screwed onto the motor, one screwed onto the mount. Opposite to another.
Finally you can use a small metal tube (1 cm) with which you can mount the pair together.
Is this understandable? (enclosed a picture of what I am trying to say)

Yes i see what yo are saying there...
Problem is that the motor uses X mounts.. not sure if it those mounts would accept this motor..

Still thinking in bolting directly to the plastic mount.. this is thiner than the aluminium x mount to bolt intrusion shouldnt be a problem..
or maybe use the x mount..
What worries me with the x mount is that the motor would go some mm higher , unless opening some holes for the lower x arms to go and this wouldnt left much space for the bolts themselves
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 04:03 AM
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you would have to modify the towerpro mounts (drill some extra holes in it).

But to be honest: bolting the motor directly onto the plastic mount is probably the easiest way. Might not be so practical when the motor dies, but how often is that!?
I would use a few washers for airflow (and up/right trust).
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:49 AM
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Fitting done.. in the end i went for bolting the motor directly to the plastic mount.. since using an x mount would also require ungluing the mount too (unless using a wood mount with wood screws).
Also i didnt wanted to get the motor much higher ..

With the help of my trusty dremel and using the x mount as a guide , drilled the holes plous one bigger hole in the medium to the motor shaft retain (wich ventures 0.5mm out of the motor base)




And it worked.. the stock M3 bolts bolt directly into the motor nicely .. this is how the motor ends bolted to the plastic mount.. also added couple of 1mm washers in the botton to add a bit of angle ..
The motor bolted seems rock solid fixed



And this is a bit of presentation of how it should end



Only remaining is soldering the cables (hardes part since soldering one wire to another is not my strong in soldering) and reglueing the support .. for wich i will use hot glue as before.. As before a 6X4 fits .. didnt wanted to get the motor higher but didnt wanted either to get it lower

Still thanks for the suggestion struggleforlife.. thats a nice idea i didnt knew and might came handy for future projects. specially considering how much problems i had fitting a motor to another glider (converted from unpowered to powered) with those motors that bolt in the front rather than in the back (i wish i knew how to reverse shafts, since that would simplify things inmensely)
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:05 PM
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... i am really curious as to how the plane flies (compared to stock) with this new flashy motor of yours.
Keep us posted please!

BTW. is that blood on the on the foam (close to the new motor)? I tend to bleed all over my equipment too hahahaha
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:09 PM
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Is that the RC-Timer 2826-6 2200kv motor? I'm interested in the performance also. So far so good on the stock motor here, but I'd like to have a backup just in case. I also have 32A ESC that would pair well with this motor and a 6x5E prop.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:21 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
...
I wish i knew how to reverse shafts, since that would simplify things inmensely.
The easiest motors to convert have a small shaft sticking out in back with a wheel collar (collar with a set screw / grub screw) on it. Some that don't have this come with extra slots already cut in the shaft. Some require buying a special shaft.

Remove wheel collar and C-clip / E-clip on back of motor. Slide magnet bell housing with shaft out front of motor.

If there was no wheel collar on the back and you only see one C-clip slot in the back half of the motor shaft, then put it back together because it requires a special shaft that you don't have. You can see that there isn't enough shaft on the outside of the C-clip slot to grub screw the magnet bell on.

Unscrew grub screws / set screws that hold magnet bell housing to shaft. Slide magnet bell housing off of shaft.

Put shaft into the windings base backwards and from what used to be the rear and put C-clip on in front if there are two C-clips, else put the one C-clip on what used to be the rear, but now has more shaft sticking out.

At this point, there should be enough shaft sticking out what used to be the front to grub screw (set screw) the magnet bell back on. Careful putting the magnet bell back on. The magnets are strong and you don't want to just let it plop on. There should be a C-clip on the shaft against the bearing on the other side.

The wheel collar is really only needed if the motor will now be doing pusher service.

If you think about it, all motor parts are exactly as before, but the shaft is reversed and has more sticking out the back than the front now.

Cliff
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by struggleforlife View Post
... i am really curious as to how the plane flies (compared to stock) with this new flashy motor of yours.
Keep us posted please!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
Is that the RC-Timer 2826-6 2200kv motor? I'm interested in the performance also. So far so good on the stock motor here, but I'd like to have a backup just in case. I also have 32A ESC that would pair well with this motor and a 6x5E prop.
I think there was someone allready here that had installed the 2826 motor wich is aparently the same.. using a different fix method (using plywood X support plus the alu X).

I plan on using a 6X4 wich is bellow the max amp power output of this motor.. but im curious about the 6X5..
what should i expect with a 6X5? same thrust and more speed?

Quote:
BTW. is that blood on the on the foam (close to the new motor)? I tend to bleed all over my equipment too hahahaha
Nope.. that was a red arrow painted with a marker that i put there once bored as a "warnign propeller" touch .. not a good idea..probably will put some red sticker over it.. actually i had one before but it fell off due to vibrations during the "loose magnet crisis"
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 02:28 PM
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Asheville,NC
Joined Jun 2002
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AXN in My hands now

Now that I have a real AXN in my hands. Does not appear to be as simple set up as I thought .
1. Is the Carbon Fiber rod glued into one wing , or in both wings ? or maybe not at all
2. Wires to Elev and Rud are pulled all the way up and tite - If I loosen the screw [that holds the wire ]on servo arm , NOT sure I have any tool to hold tiny nut , in order to tighten after adjusting them out to Elev & Rud . One Servo was just hanging loose within Fuse - the other secured with ? glue and snug
3. Aileron servo wires ? trying to figure out how to run them down in bottom of wing saddle. There is a small rect slot but it is behind where servo wires exit bottom of the wing May have to gouge out another hole down in Fuse ?
Instructions supplied are far toooo techinal for me
I'm sure, someone on here has some wisdom and knowledge to share
...........te
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 03:40 PM
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1. Is the Carbon Fiber rod glued into one wing , or in both wings ? or maybe not at all
It depends on if you want to transport this or not. Obviously if you glue both sides in, you will not be getting it apart. I only glued the styrofoam covering, so I could remove the wings if necessary. Also add some tape over these just for backup!

2. Wires to Elev and Rud are pulled all the way up and tite - If I loosen the screw [that holds the wire ]on servo arm , NOT sure I have any tool to hold tiny nut , in order to tighten after adjusting them out to Elev & Rud . One Servo was just hanging loose within Fuse - the other secured with ? glue and snug
There shouldn't be a nut on the control rod, so just loosen the screw and adjust the elevators and rudder, then re-tighten. I also recommend cutting the excess control rod ends so you have more room in the fuselage. As for the servos, I would glue both of them in. Mine were OK at first but after a few flights one of them began to move. Glue both in with some hot glue or the included rubber cement and let dry over night.

3. Aileron servo wires ? trying to figure out how to run them down in bottom of wing saddle. There is a small rect slot but it is behind where servo wires exit bottom of the wing May have to gouge out another hole down in Fuse ?
Slide the wings together and leave about 2" on both sides of the fuselage. Grab the servo wire, push down into the fuselage and pull all the slack out through the canopy. Some needle nose pliers or stats are a good help with this step. As you move the wings closer together, keep pulling the slack out.
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 08:05 PM
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Asheville,NC
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Assembly

Quote:
Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
1. Is the Carbon Fiber rod glued into one wing , or in both wings ? or maybe not at all
It depends on if you want to transport this or not. Obviously if you glue both sides in, you will not be getting it apart. I only glued the styrofoam covering, so I could remove the wings if necessary. Also add some tape over these just for backup!

2. Wires to Elev and Rud are pulled all the way up and tite - If I loosen the screw [that holds the wire ]on servo arm , NOT sure I have any tool to hold tiny nut , in order to tighten after adjusting them out to Elev & Rud . One Servo was just hanging loose within Fuse - the other secured with ? glue and snug
There shouldn't be a nut on the control rod, so just loosen the screw and adjust the elevators and rudder, then re-tighten. I also recommend cutting the excess control rod ends so you have more room in the fuselage. As for the servos, I would glue both of them in. Mine were OK at first but after a few flights one of them began to move. Glue both in with some hot glue or the included rubber cement and let dry over night.

3. Aileron servo wires ? trying to figure out how to run them down in bottom of wing saddle. There is a small rect slot but it is behind where servo wires exit bottom of the wing May have to gouge out another hole down in Fuse ?

Thanks for the tips I got to looking at the servo on the aileron, as I needed to flex them. I got out my small flat and phillips Hmmm Neither would fit , so looked with some brighter light , AH Ha little grub with allen type head.So back to the tool box and loosened it up with small allen wrench

Your Idea of inserting the wings/ aileron servo wires sounds like a winner .I'll go that route ..

One of the wings has a lift out section where Carbon rod goes, then other wing has the lift out already glue'd - user discretion on that , I'll use some white elec tape to secure the wing to the fuse .


Slide the wings together and leave about 2" on both sides of the fuselage. Grab the servo wire, push down into the fuselage and pull all the slack out through the canopy. Some needle nose pliers or stats are a good help with this step. As you move the wings closer together, keep pulling the slack out.
Much Obliged for the suggestions
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 09:26 PM
Just thumbing through...
victapilot's Avatar
United States, SC, Simpsonville
Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Unscrew grub screws / set screws that hold magnet bell housing to shaft. Slide magnet bell housing off of shaft.
Sometimes the shaft needs some encouragement with a hammer, otherewise a good checklist!

Also, I have sometimes used a Dremel to create a new groove, or if lazy, cut a notch, put on a wheel collar and screw the set screw into the notch.
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