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Old Mar 17, 2010, 05:33 PM
just keep flying!!! :))
Thessaloniki, Greece
Joined Feb 2010
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armbarnes View Post
Hopefully your extra time will translate into better adhesion. I only preped the wing by rubbing with alcohol and did not prep the fuselage at all. You can see it's already beat up in front from nosing in on the beach...
Yes i noticed that the nose is weird a littlebit, but as i said before your plane looks really cool!!!

My plane (because of the blue color on top, and silver at the bottom) looks like a Shark!!!
maybe i'll make it a Mouth and some teeth :P like this picture below.

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Old Mar 17, 2010, 05:34 PM
just keep flying!!! :))
Thessaloniki, Greece
Joined Feb 2010
265 Posts
Oh and Tankdog sorry for your bad Experience
be careful next time...

cheers
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 07:17 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Physics and Logic

Quote:
Originally Posted by BaracW View Post
Well, the hole for the adapter is on the rear of the prop. If you turn the prop around or if you ream out the front, I think you may look for problems, because now you have the prop backwards or a bigger hole front and rear. If you use the stock prop, the tips "flow" away from direction of spin. Any different and the prop is on backwards and will effect performance. The prop adapter is a definate solution, but I haven't flown it yet with it. Either adapter will work, as my shaft is ground flat in the right spot to keep the grub screw type centered. However, I did by the collett type, only because, then I don't have to worry about another screw working lose and messing up everything.
OK. I can see where I need to be clearer about what I do. The procedure I use guarantees a solid fitting prop using the O-Ring method which I prefer because it has less weight to spin. So, since we all know that a picture is worth..... Here is what I have..... in picture order:
1. My motor has the adapter built into it stock. You will not need the adapter ring that came with the plane/motor.
2. Drill a 5.5mm (.217) hole in the front of the prop using a 7/32 drill bit (.2188).
3. Use a 3mm plastic adapter ring that came with your prop on the back of the prop. Put 1/2 drop of CA in the prop before you insert the plastic adapter.
4. This is how it looks installed. DO NOT use an (X) or crossover with the O-Ring. That causes it to be out of balance before you even start the motor.
5. Note the tight fit. It is supported in the front with the 5.5mm hole in the prop and a 3mm adapter in the back. Note the thin O-Ring. If you use this method, you do not need one of those monster O-rings to hold it together.
This provides the maximum stability of an O-Ring type configuration. I have used this configuration for over 100 flights and I still have the O-Ring that I started with. Hopefully, this will be useful to those of you who want to keep the spinning mass to a minimum.

AJ
P.S. Please note that the front and back of the prop are referred to with the plane in an RTF configuration. You can tell from the pictures that this is a well used motor/prop/o-ring combo. And, Yes, the prop is installed correctly.
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Last edited by ajbaker; Mar 17, 2010 at 07:37 PM. Reason: typos
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 09:30 PM
An Aussie in Dubai
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Jan 2009
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Armbarnes View Post
It better be pretty nice if you're taking two weeks with it! I painted mine last weekend while it was raining and did some other repairs too. I wanted high visibility and positive orientation as I've been flying very far away lately and have lost the plane in the sky briefly more than once.

Took me about two hours for three coats of spraypaint - dries super fast on EPO it seems, but I let it sit overnight before flying. It did add noticable weight, but I used too much paint. My plane started at 421g and yesterday it weighed 456g so it's gained 35g (1.25oz) from two crash repairs, adding magnets at the wing joiner, and painting.

For those of you who will paint try to keep it to minimum at the back of the plane - leverage and surface area combined to move my CG quite a bit rearward

]
Great paint job - would love to photos/video of it flying.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 09:42 PM
An Aussie in Dubai
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Jan 2009
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
OK. I can see where I need to be clearer about what I do. The procedure I use guarantees a solid fitting prop using the O-Ring method which I prefer because it has less weight to spin. So, since we all know that a picture is worth..... Here is what I have..... in picture order:
1. My motor has the adapter built into it stock. You will not need the adapter ring that came with the plane/motor.
2. Drill a 5.5mm (.217) hole in the front of the prop using a 7/32 drill bit (.2188).
3. Use a 3mm plastic adapter ring that came with your prop on the back of the prop. Put 1/2 drop of CA in the prop before you insert the plastic adapter.
4. This is how it looks installed. DO NOT use an (X) or crossover with the O-Ring. That causes it to be out of balance before you even start the motor.
5. Note the tight fit. It is supported in the front with the 5.5mm hole in the prop and a 3mm adapter in the back. Note the thin O-Ring. If you use this method, you do not need one of those monster O-rings to hold it together.
This provides the maximum stability of an O-Ring type configuration. I have used this configuration for over 100 flights and I still have the O-Ring that I started with. Hopefully, this will be useful to those of you who want to keep the spinning mass to a minimum.

AJ
P.S. Please note that the front and back of the prop are referred to with the plane in an RTF configuration. You can tell from the pictures that this is a well used motor/prop/o-ring combo. And, Yes, the prop is installed correctly.
OK - so the reason for drilling the 5.5mm hole in the front of the prop is to get a good firm fit against the prop saver block.
This would also mean that the prop cannot flex and therefore won't put so much stress on both the o-ring and also the front bearing of the motor.
I like it.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 10:38 PM
Registered User
West Texas USA
Joined Mar 2008
662 Posts
Aileron servo failure.

After 60 or so flights I lost a aileron servo. I plan on replacing all 4 servos with HXT900 or similar servos. Seems like someone has already mentioned servo failure on the CF. After the magnets, motor, ESC and finally the servo have failed I could swear I heard lyrics from Johnny Cash's "One Piece At A Time".

Aside: Finished an flew my GWS Tiger Moth 400. Very good calm/low wind flyer.
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Old Mar 17, 2010, 10:50 PM
Registered User
West Texas USA
Joined Mar 2008
662 Posts
Fc 2812

I wondered about that motor having enough thrust on a 3S lipo. Sorry to hear about the mishap tankd0g. The Turnigy 2826-1900 will handle that kind of wind but probably not much more. That wind speed is about the top end of my comfort level for enjoyable CF flying. I think the plane is just too light for breezy flying.
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 01:14 AM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2010
358 Posts
magnet

Well, it's finally happened to me. I saw a magnet loose yesterday. Took it out and some of the magnets are not bonded and some detach off the bond easily
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 03:59 AM
Registered User
Melbourne, Australia
Joined Mar 2009
370 Posts
TowerPro 2409-12

Well I've got the CF running with a towerpro 1600kv 2409-12 (the older bell type). Swinging a APC-style 7x6E, with a small shim under the bottom screws for some downthrust & so that the prop clears the fuse.

I also bought the newer type, but chose not to use it because:
  • It's slightly heavier
  • Bearings, stator & windings look the same
  • Much wider & longer
  • Requires a prop adaptor (the bell types threaded shaft, locknuts + washers work fine with a 7x6E)
  • Doesn't include mount (and still weighs more)

She flys quite nicely with it, but has just a little less vertical & speed compared to a rctimer 2212-06 with a TGS 6x5E... But its also drawing about 2A less, and isnt even close to hot where the 2212 does get a little warm. Its also a LOT less noisy. Almost seems more acrobatic with this setup, but maybe the 2212 is just a little more intimidating

Hmmmm.... what can I try next?
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 04:40 AM
Registered User
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Feb 2009
1,287 Posts
Ninetysix - I put this motor on my plane and its incredible... http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...tor-p-585.html

I have unlmited verticle on a 3s 6x5 apc prop. If I remember correctly it draws 32 amps and produces 385 watts of power.

I wonder if I could prop it down to say the stock 5x5 and put a 4 cell on it. My plane already moves, I couldnt imagine 500 + watts...
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 04:41 AM
Registered User
United States, AK, Anchorage
Joined Feb 2009
1,287 Posts
On a different note, does anyone know where I could pick up a stock canopy?
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 05:05 AM
An Aussie in Dubai
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Jan 2009
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowcolorado View Post
On a different note, does anyone know where I could pick up a stock canopy?
I remember someone suggesting that the canopies are available from a LHS in Singapore - JetHobby I think.
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 05:53 AM
An Aussie in Dubai
United Arab Emirates, Dubai
Joined Jan 2009
265 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
OK. I can see where I need to be clearer about what I do. The procedure I use guarantees a solid fitting prop using the O-Ring method which I prefer because it has less weight to spin. So, since we all know that a picture is worth..... Here is what I have..... in picture order:
1. My motor has the adapter built into it stock. You will not need the adapter ring that came with the plane/motor.
2. Drill a 5.5mm (.217) hole in the front of the prop using a 7/32 drill bit (.2188).
3. Use a 3mm plastic adapter ring that came with your prop on the back of the prop. Put 1/2 drop of CA in the prop before you insert the plastic adapter.
4. This is how it looks installed. DO NOT use an (X) or crossover with the O-Ring. That causes it to be out of balance before you even start the motor.
5. Note the tight fit. It is supported in the front with the 5.5mm hole in the prop and a 3mm adapter in the back. Note the thin O-Ring. If you use this method, you do not need one of those monster O-rings to hold it together.
This provides the maximum stability of an O-Ring type configuration. I have used this configuration for over 100 flights and I still have the O-Ring that I started with. Hopefully, this will be useful to those of you who want to keep the spinning mass to a minimum.

AJ
P.S. Please note that the front and back of the prop are referred to with the plane in an RTF configuration. You can tell from the pictures that this is a well used motor/prop/o-ring combo. And, Yes, the prop is installed correctly.
AJ - I understand your idea - the spigot on the prop saver is 5.5mm diameter.
However, I have measured 3 different props that I have including the original 5 x 5 and 2 different brands of 6 x 4 and they all have a 6.0mm hole in the front end as stock.
Therefore I'm a bit lost as to your suggestion of drilling 5.5mm?
Perhaps you have a prop with a smaller hole??
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 01:38 PM
Registered User
The Netherlands, LI, Venray
Joined Dec 2008
1,394 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by maestros View Post
Hi, Are you flying all stock? And what kind of battery are you using???
if it's a 1300mAh plane might be a littlebit Tail heavy, and you can only see that when you are not flying very fast.
I fly all stock and a 3S 2200Mah lipo.....even with about 20gram lead in the nose
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Old Mar 18, 2010, 04:16 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2007
1,060 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tankd0g View Post
Received my HK order yesterday with the two Emax CF-28-12 motors in it and a TGS 6x4e prop. Burnt the first motor up right on the bench when I clicked the ch3 box to reverse instead of ch2 and the fuse sans wings took off and jammed the prop against the floor and broke the shaft inside the bell housing. That's what you get when you work on this stuff at 4am I guess. Prop was scuffed up on the tips but otherwise ok. So I put the second motor on, this time cut the shaft down a bit so it can't break so easily, and I head out. The wind was blowing 20 km/hr just like the first time I flew the plane with the 5x5 and stock motor. This new configuration is just about worthless in wind that speed, at full throttle I could not fight the wind, it nosed up and over me and went straight into the ground.
But is that the new 6x4e or old 6x4e?
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