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Old Dec 27, 2009, 06:43 AM
AD.
Team Better Than Yours
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I think if you asked in the Easy star thread they may be able to give you ideas and then you will just have to adapt it for the CF. I don't think anyone here has done it before but I will be very interested in how this turns out.
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Old Dec 27, 2009, 03:36 PM
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nr Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
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Questions

I'm pretty new to R/C kit. I spent the afternoon putting together the electronics for my CF. I had no problem with connecting up the Corona 6ch receiver to my HobbyZone 35MHz Tx. However, the rudder and ailerons are reversed. I tried reversing the connector to the receiver but no joy. Luckily my Tx has reversing switches which after some experimenting switching on/off Tx/Rx, I managed to get to work. However is there another way (apart from a programmable Tx)?

On the motor side, I read in this thread about (epoxy) gluing the prop to the prop adaptor to the prop shaft. I don't see the point of gluing the prop to the shaft when the prop-saver keeps the prop attached to the shaft (and allows easy removal). So why bother?

I also noted a lot of comments regarding ESCs on here. All I've done (without the programming card) is to program the throttle travel - dead easy to do. The AOXAN 20A ESC is shipped with my CF. The manual suggested on here says the default timing is Low - for generic in-runner or 2-pole motor. It says Medium for motors with more than 6 poles and High for higher speed. Given most stock CFs will never change from the Low default, is there any reason to? How many poles does the stock motor have?
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 02:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Dunkelmann View Post
1. However is there another way (apart from a programmable Tx)?

2. On the motor side, I read in this thread about (epoxy) gluing the prop to the prop adaptor to the prop shaft. I don't see the point of gluing the prop to the shaft when the prop-saver keeps the prop attached to the shaft (and allows easy removal). So why bother?

3. How many poles does the stock motor have?
1. Short answer is No. But, you can do one of the following:
a. rewire the motor in the servo by switching the two wires on the servo potentiometer.
b. Move the pushrod to the other side of the servo.
c. Relocate the servo is such a way as to use the opposite side of the servo arm.
d. In the absence of a reversing switch, get a new radio system like THIS.
Of all of those, the simplest is to just do what you did.

2. I agree.

3. 12
AJ
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 06:30 AM
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nr Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
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Thanks for the quick reply AJ. I'm assuming that it is OK to run the ESC in Low mode because (a) it works fine with the CF stock motor and (b) it will mean longer lasting batteries?

By the way, I've learned such a lot from you and the others on this thread. I can hook up a Rx and program an ESC. I now understand the foibles of servos and the importance of CG. I'm beginning to learn about motors, prop size, ESCs. All of it in one thread!

This is the first ARF I've put together (and my second R/C aircraft). I've ordered the magnets, the Watt meter, the batteries through recommendations here. I'm about to order the anemometer.

For all this, thanks AJ and others.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 10:54 AM
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Delaware
Joined Jan 2004
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Epoxy) gluing the prop to the prop adaptor to the prop shaft

Epoxy) gluing the prop to the prop adaptor to the prop shaft

People seem to get this one confused a lot...

There is a small bushing in the kit that you detach and put inside the propeller where the shaft goes through. This makes up the difference between the gap in the propeller and shaft size. You glue the bushing in the propeller not the propeller to the shaft so there will be no slop. Also make sure you don't get too much glue in there that will harden and you loose your ID size of the bushing and cause vibration and be unbalanced and not smooth. Hope that helps, Rick I also have a short Video on YouTube that might help
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dunkelmann View Post
I'm assuming that it is OK to run the ESC in Low mode because (a) it works fine with the CF stock motor and (b) it will mean longer lasting batteries?
a and b are both correct IMO.
AJ
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 04:37 PM
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HI Dunkleman,

I once had to reverse a servo on a TX that had to switch to do so. I solved my problems by using one of these... hope it helps

http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-19...everser/Detail
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by eyeinsky1 View Post
Question to all you AKA floater jet guys

What is with the wing drop that this aircraft does turning in or out of the wind? I know this is a stall of sorts but it sure is unpredictable. Has anyone made any mods to minimize this? I have installed gyros in the pitch and the roll and it does help, but it still experiences as occasional wing drop.

Could it be from the winglets?

Today I did two mods;
-added a 1/2 inch to the elevator
-cut some foam to fit under the leading edge of the wing. This gives the leading edge a droop profile.

Test flight was great, I like it I think it helped but not to much wind today. The leading work improved the low speed and definatly did not run out of elevator. I will try take some video next time. Here are some pics:





I have marked the video section that the wing drops

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7K7ywu2uALA
--------------------

I haven't got this plane yet, but from what I could see in the video the plane flied nicely, and that drop as you called it could just have been a gust of wind. With the extra weight of a camera standing up like that maybe your plane is less stable than stock/has a higher center of gravity ?
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 05:57 PM
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The wing drop doesn't look like a tip stall and this plane has a nasty tip stall. I ridge soar mine and at low speeds it will drop and death spiral very fast. What i did was learn to watch for the point right before that. IMO its a really good R/C flying skill as it lets you test out a new plane without fear (i was able to judge the tip stall point right out the box on first flight on the PZ BF-109, my 2nd plane) To me the above looks like a strong gust.


Just my 2 cents.....
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Old Dec 29, 2009, 11:25 AM
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nr Edinburgh, Scotland, UK
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Originally Posted by issr7 View Post
HI Dunkleman,

I once had to reverse a servo on a TX that had to switch to do so. I solved my problems by using one of these... hope it helps

http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-19...everser/Detail
Thanks - I wondered about these. They are a good idea but expensive compared to the price of a servo.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Dunkelmann View Post
Thanks - I wondered about these. They are a good idea but expensive compared to the price of a servo.
was worth the money in my case, but i can see how it can add up if you need more than one.
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Old Dec 30, 2009, 11:13 PM
What? Not a T-Rex!!!
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USA, CO, Colorado Springs
Joined Mar 2008
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New to Forum

Hey guys... just got mine from HK and am lost as to how to get the aileron wires and y-connector to fit between the wings???

Are you making the fuse hole larger to pull the connectors through, or cutting a space in the wings themselves???

Hate to bring up dumb question like this but I am a little lost.

thanks for the help!
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Old Dec 31, 2009, 12:15 AM
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check post #650
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Old Dec 31, 2009, 01:06 AM
Argue for your limitations
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Lincoln, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dolbydarma View Post
Hey guys... just got mine from HK and am lost as to how to get the aileron wires and y-connector to fit between the wings???

Are you making the fuse hole larger to pull the connectors through, or cutting a space in the wings themselves???

Hate to bring up dumb question like this but I am a little lost.

thanks for the help!
DO NOT cut anything!!! There is a small space built into the center (near front) of the wing for the connectors to fit snuggly.
AJ
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Old Dec 31, 2009, 03:42 AM
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Alert!!!!

92 Cloudys in stock. Get one before they all run away. I hope these last for a while so all the folks interested in getting one (or a spare) will have it. Good luck to all.
AJ
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