Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 07:04 PM
Dan Thompson (MP8K developer)
Iflyj3's Avatar
USA, KY, Paris
Joined Dec 2002
329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMP_blackfoot
Hello ifly3!

Did you find a way around this ?
i have the same problem.
Thanks for sharing any ideas.
Right now I haven't had time to work on it. However, the only solution I can come up with is to use a short antenna coax and strip 27 mm at the end and let that stick through a small hole in the case right behind the transmitting antenna. The other end will solder to the internal antenna and ground. do not like that solution but I can't think of any other way to do it.

Dan
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 07:09 PM
Dan Thompson (MP8K developer)
Iflyj3's Avatar
USA, KY, Paris
Joined Dec 2002
329 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbite
I have read somewhere here, that the "Bind/Distance Test" button does not seem to reduce rf output. If my memory serves me right, those posts were stated as being inconclusive. I do not have a way to measure rf output from my Tx antenna and I see no connection from the micro controller to the rf board that would lead me to believe that that button could be used for distance testing.
So, may I be so brash to conclude that, conclusively, the HK-T4A does NOT have a functioning distance test?

Thanks,
Walt Bankes
In the testing I have done, the switch does not attenuate the RF at all. Range is not affected by pushing the switch.

Dan
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 07:41 PM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Perth, Australia
Joined Apr 2007
481 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iflyj3
Leadwings;

There was an addition added to what I sent. Your manual says;

Point of caution noted by Iflyj3: The Tx and Rx modules actually communicate during binding (ie the Rx transmits and the Tx receives!). The receiver antenna for the RF deck is on the RF deck PCB. It does not use the long antenna for receiving to determine if a channel is being used. If this deck is put in a metal cased transmitter, it will not hear other transmitters that are on and may use the same channel as they are using.

It should read;

Point of caution noted by Iflyj3: The receiver antenna for the RF deck is on the RF deck PCB. It does not use the long antenna for receiving to determine if a channel is being used. If this deck is put in a metal cased transmitter, it will not hear other transmitters that are on and may use the same channel as they are using.

I do not know that the FlySky is duplex communications during binding, so the statement "The Tx and Rx modules actually communicate during binding (ie the Rx transmits and the Tx receives!). " should be removed.

I was talking about the transmitter receiving at a normal power on sequence.

Thanks,

Dan
Dan, reason I wrote this is I thought when I did play with the binding on mine, once in bind mode it stayed in bind mode till it found a RX to bind to - so I thought it was a 2-way communication as it had to "hear back" that the bind was successful.

Thinking back (it was a few months ago) I might be getting confused between it and my Assan system.

Ive updated the document with yoru edit for the time being. I'll have a play tonight if I get time and see if it was the FlySky or Assan system that did the 2-way communication (or I was just imagining things!).

JMP blackfoot I've add the bit on range testing from your post.
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Last edited by Lead Wings; Jun 08, 2009 at 07:49 PM.
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 09:12 PM
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crucial's Avatar
USA, SE Wisconsin
Joined May 2009
2,375 Posts
Does anyone know what diode needs jumping in order to use a charger on the 4channel HK Tx? Looking inside I assume it's the diode marked D2 above the charge plug but I need to be sure.
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 09:35 PM
The reviewer
XJet's Avatar
Tokoroa
Joined Mar 2004
3,827 Posts
Modern chargers don't seem to need the diode to be jumped.

I use a iMax B6 on all my transmitters (Hitec, JR, FlySky) and all the batteries (NiMH) charge just fine with the peak-detect working perfectly.
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Old Jun 08, 2009, 10:36 PM
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USA, TX, Dalworthington Gardens
Joined Aug 2007
25 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lead Wings
Dan, reason I wrote this is I thought when I did play with the binding on mine, once in bind mode it stayed in bind mode till it found a RX to bind to - so I thought it was a 2-way communication as it had to "hear back" that the bind was successful.

Thinking back (it was a few months ago) I might be getting confused between it and my Assan system.

Ive updated the document with yoru edit for the time being. I'll have a play tonight if I get time and see if it was the FlySky or Assan system that did the 2-way communication (or I was just imagining things!).

JMP blackfoot I've add the bit on range testing from your post.

I have looked at this forum for info on how to use this HC 6ch 2.4g system as a FMS controller and I just either am missing it or it makes no sense to my pea brain..I do know one thing I do not want to destroy it as a RC transmitter as I really do not have the bucks to buy another...I just want to practice with FMS when I cannot get into the air.

Sooo with that said can someone take me by the hand and stick my big ol fat nose in the right place to do this???? Pl..pl..pl..pl..pl..please <ala Roger Rabbit>?
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 01:04 AM
I enjoy the voices
Lead Wings's Avatar
Perth, Australia
Joined Apr 2007
481 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by oimmuk
I have looked at this forum for info on how to use this HC 6ch 2.4g system as a FMS controller and I just either am missing it or it makes no sense to my pea brain..I do know one thing I do not want to destroy it as a RC transmitter as I really do not have the bucks to buy another...I just want to practice with FMS when I cannot get into the air.

Sooo with that said can someone take me by the hand and stick my big ol fat nose in the right place to do this???? Pl..pl..pl..pl..pl..please <ala Roger Rabbit>?
Mr Rabbit, I haven't used the HK 4 channel as a sim controller yet, but it should be as simple as:
  1. Buy a cable. People have previously recommended the following: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4603~r.12268550 http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11996
  2. Download FMS and install http://www.flying-model-simulator.com/
  3. You may also need to download PPJoy (this is a package that takes the USB data and converts it to a stream that FMS can read. http://www.geocities.com/deonvdw/PPJoy.htm
  4. Start PP Joy first and test it is reading the Tx (details of how to on the PP Joy web site)
  5. Start FMS and tell it to look for the gamepad and you should be good to go
Good luck. Bit of web surfing should help if you have any problems.
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 07:22 AM
Curiouser and curiouser
Kokopeli's Avatar
Rochester, NY, USA
Joined Oct 2005
2,061 Posts
Max. Rx Vin ?

I had one of those nights when I woke up with a question on my mind that started to nag me.
Our binding instructions say to plug the binding plug into the BAT connector and plug the battery into any other connection on the Rx.
WHAT BATTERY?
I know to use my sailboat battery (6v) because I am concerned about providing over voltage for the Rx.
What about those who only have electric airplane batteries? Will 7.4 v. be okay? Probably.
How about 3s, 12v. humm.... dunno.
HOW ABOUT 4s, 15 v. - my guess is probably not!
So I looked at the schematics that have been posted here - looks like the BAT input goes directly to the input of the 3.3v, 6206 regulator.
Okay, on to the 6206 data sheet, also kindly provided here, and I find the data sheet written poorly (sigh). It actually says that the absolute max. for Vin is Vss+5.5v (this data sheet is for a whole range of regulators). Vss+5.5v = 5.5v, I think. I am thinking that they must have meant [design output voltage (in our case 3.3) + 5.5v ]. So if I believe that Max. Vin would be 8.8v, eh?
That seems to say that binding with a two cell LiPo is okay but don't do three cells or more (and some such reasoning for NiMH cells, too).
Am I:
1. on the right track here - or
2. all wet?

What is your vote? 1 or 2
If you vote "2" I would appreciate an explination, too Some people want everything, eh?

Thanks,
Walt Bankes
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 07:39 AM
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United States, OH, Galena
Joined Jul 2003
1,658 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by wjbite
That seems to say that binding with a two cell LiPo is okay but don't do three cells or more (and some such reasoning for NiMH cells, too).
Am I:
1. on the right track here - or
2. all wet?

What is your vote? 1 or 2
If you vote "2" I would appreciate an explination, too
I vote : "2"
By "battery", it is meant the normal receiver/servo supply.
If you are using the receiver in a glider or plane with glow or diesel engine, your airborne battery would be plugged into the "Bat" connector. For binding, you then would have to move the battery connector to any of the servo outputs, and install the binding plug in the "Bat" connector
If using a BEC, as for an electric airplane, then the "Bat" connector would be free, and you would merely have to install the binding plug in the "Bat" connector.
If, as I understand you are using a BEC plugged in the "Bat" connector, then you would have to move the BE connector to any of the servo output, as for a glider/glow/diesel plane.

To sum up :
If the "Bat" connector is free, just install the binding plug there.
If the "Bat" connector is used, move the plug to any of the other receiver connectors, and install the binding plug in the "Bat" connector.

Then power the receiver up (Red receiver LED should blink), switch the transmitter on while pressing the bind button and hold it until the red receiver LED is ON continuously.
Switch receiver and transmitter off, remove bind plug, if necessary move battery back to "Bat" connector. That is it.
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 07:41 AM
Registered User
Finland
Joined Mar 2009
44 Posts
I always use bec ( or regulated power supply) to provide 5V to rx while binding). Bind blug only add ground and "signal" pin together.

It is not safe to use over 6V in rx.
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 08:06 AM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Holt, MI
Joined Jan 2009
1,554 Posts
"Battery" means your normal means of providing power to the receiver during flight. For gas powered aircraft and pure sailplanes, that probably means a four NiCd or NiMH battery pack, or LiPos using a standalone BEC.

For electric powered aircraft, that usually means an ESC with built-in BEC, or using a separate BEC. Some very high powered electrics that use greater than 3S LiPos or A123s often also have a completely separate receiver/servo battery.

Even a complete newbie won't have a problem getting confused on this point, because in order to plug their 3 cell LiPo directly into the receiver for binding purposes, they would have to fashion some sort of adaptor cable to mate the high current connector on the LiPo to a servo connector. If someone has enough savy to create such an adaptor, they also know not to actually use it!
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 08:43 AM
Team Wack-a-Mole
Melnic's Avatar
Maryland
Joined Oct 2008
8,437 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by F-111 John
If someone has enough savy to create such an adaptor, they also know not to actually use it!
I don't think you've seen some of the people who fly at my field
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 09:56 AM
R.I.P, Aardvark.
F-111 John's Avatar
Holt, MI
Joined Jan 2009
1,554 Posts
Every time someone makes something idiot-proof, they come up with better idiots! (I've contributed to idiot evolution on more than one occasion...)
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 10:08 AM
Curiouser and curiouser
Kokopeli's Avatar
Rochester, NY, USA
Joined Oct 2005
2,061 Posts
Thanks to all of you who have replied.
blackfoot - I should have known to provide more info about why I want to know - I am writing a Quick Start Guide for the HK-T4A system.
I envisioned a newbie getting his/her first radio and kit to build. My first action would be to test the radio before I put it all together. I could see someone grabbing a LiPo from the pile of parts and plugging it into the Rx for binding [ and John, all my planes are small and I use small connectors on small batteries - plus, what you said Melnic - there are always some who don't understand what they are doing - but they do it anyhow].
So, it seems that everyone agrees that above 6v. is to be avoided.
I will try to make it clear to the new user, using the insights y'all provided into the varied situations purchasers would be in.

I like the wording you used, blackfoot, I may steal it for my manual.

Thanks,
Walt
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Last edited by Kokopeli; Jun 09, 2009 at 10:14 AM.
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Old Jun 09, 2009, 10:51 AM
Up in smoke!
BlueFFF's Avatar
Greenville, TX
Joined Jun 2007
627 Posts
Just the other day a friend of mine plugged the balance plug from his 2c lipo into the battery connection on his receiver on his plane and smoked it and the servos. It was his first plane and he did not relize the receiver was already being powered by his speed controller. Until he told me about it I didn't even know the battery charge plug would fit onto the receiver pins, but they do!
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