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Old Jan 09, 2012, 01:15 PM
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New York
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Originally Posted by F-111 John View Post
It amazes me to no end that Hobby King stocks the CT6 radio in the US warehouse, but doesn't stock the cable in the US warehouse.
specially when you consider hobbypartz sells the t6 WITH a cable for less than half what hk charges. and it shows up in 3 days!
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 11:42 PM
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You can download programming tools for the STC12C5408AD here. http://translate.google.com/translat...ww.stcmcu.com/
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 10:08 AM
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thnaks for that link. with so many links unfortunately i wasnt able to find or download anything useful. an assembler and information on flashing (if its possible) would be very helpful. someone said this is a pic clone and that there are cross assemblers/compilers (translators?) available. it would be nice if we could make the kind of improvements to the t6 that others did for the 9x. personally i much prefer the t6 to the 9x as a model plane radio.
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Old Jan 11, 2012, 06:54 PM
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That site contains ISP software. You have to hunt to find the English version. I got it running last night but I haven't tried hooking up to the radio. I had to install the Chinese version by guessing what the OK and Cancel buttons were then drop the English executable into the install folder. According to the datasheet the ISP uses the same serial interface that you use to configure the radio. I'm not sure what the protocol is or if you need to hold any pins at a certain voltage during power on.

The site also seems to have a bunch of sample code for the processor. I read in some of their materials that the Keil compilers support this processor.

I'll keep this thread updated as I find more info.
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Old Jan 12, 2012, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by rickehrle View Post
Hi everyone,
I am writing here to share my experiences building a configurator using arduino which I call RAToSO(Ricardito's Anti-massacre Total System cOnfigurarion-- just a joke thing ). For this "project" (It was more like a 'just do it quick' thing) I used the arduino nano, which is the cheapest, but any arduino can be used, just taking care about the pin numbers that can change....
Impressive post!

Thank you!
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Old Jan 12, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rickehrle View Post
Hi everyone,
I am writing here to share my experiences building a configurator using arduino which I call RAToSO(Ricardito's Anti-massacre Total System cOnfigurarion-- just a joke thing ). For this "project" (It was more like a 'just do it quick' thing) I used the arduino nano, which is the cheapest, but any arduino can be used, just taking care about the pin numbers that can change....
Hi everyone,
here is my similar project
He is based on any board ATmega8. To view the latest version of the set of values ​​is used LCD displays old Nokia 3310 and 5 buttons. Lets you set and keep setting up 5 models

esu-ov
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Old Jan 15, 2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by esu-ov View Post
Hi everyone,
here is my similar project
He is based on any board ATmega8. To view the latest version of the set of values ​​is used LCD displays old Nokia 3310 and 5 buttons. Lets you set and keep setting up 5 models

esu-ov
Cool!
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Old Jan 18, 2012, 01:11 PM
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New York
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i put together a diy with wiring and code for the t6 model memory expander i mentioned couple months back. ive been using it for a few weeks now and it seems to be working good. costs about a buck, takes minutes to build, and easy to use. press button once for model #1, twice for #2, etc.. here a link and photo of the latest version.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1576790

photo:

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Old Jan 19, 2012, 07:22 PM
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My T6 is now working the way I want it, controls my quadcopter nicely. On the waay through, I wanted to know what voltage levels correspond to what colour leds and I started searching this thread in the hopes of finding that information. However, 334 pages is a bit daunting, so I decided it was quicker to measure it:
above 10.4v = solid green, 10.4V starts flickering orange, 10.4 down to 9.1 = solid orange and it starts flickering red at 9.1. Below 9.1 = solid red and it fades out at about 5V. The 5v regulators need a couple of volts headroom to work, ie 7v is the minimum, so once you see red, you just have time to land the thing! But orange is OK.
Current drain at 12v is 130 mA.
Since the transmitter is powered by a 5v regulator, power output won't drop until the regulator drops out, ie same power right down to 7v.
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Old Jan 19, 2012, 08:36 PM
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Too bad this link is not on page 1, it would save lots of people time
http://www.mycoolheli.com/t6config.html
look towards the bottom of the page.
The information was taken from a user's post who measured it as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by harlequin2 View Post
My T6 is now working the way I want it, controls my quadcopter nicely. On the waay through, I wanted to know what voltage levels correspond to what colour leds and I started searching this thread in the hopes of finding that information. However, 334 pages is a bit daunting, so I decided it was quicker to measure it:
above 10.4v = solid green, 10.4V starts flickering orange, 10.4 down to 9.1 = solid orange and it starts flickering red at 9.1. Below 9.1 = solid red and it fades out at about 5V. The 5v regulators need a couple of volts headroom to work, ie 7v is the minimum, so once you see red, you just have time to land the thing! But orange is OK.
Current drain at 12v is 130 mA.
Since the transmitter is powered by a 5v regulator, power output won't drop until the regulator drops out, ie same power right down to 7v.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 03:03 PM
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Thanks for that and you're right, having a link on page 1 would have saved me a bit of time!
Has anyone replaced the linear regulators with switch-mode ones? That would give a great improvement in battery life.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by harlequin2 View Post
Thanks for that and you're right, having a link on page 1 would have saved me a bit of time!
Has anyone replaced the linear regulators with switch-mode ones? That would give a great improvement in battery life.
People have typically done something like that or changed to I think 2 of the 3.4V? (crossfire? LiFe?) batteries. Its tucked in the thread somewhere.
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by harlequin2 View Post
Thanks for that and you're right, having a link on page 1 would have saved me a bit of time!
Has anyone replaced the linear regulators with switch-mode ones? That would give a great improvement in battery life.
Been done here
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1234

But you could simply connect input and output of the regulators with a short wire instead of unsoldering them.


Reinhard
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 06:20 PM
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Forgive me if this question has been answered. Is the serial protocol of this radio documented somewhere?
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Old Jan 20, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Moloch View Post
Forgive me if this question has been answered. Is the serial protocol of this radio documented somewhere?
Yes, way back in about page 8 or thereabouts. Certainly within a few pages of that, its one of the things I read quite early on.
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