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Old Feb 21, 2009, 11:14 PM
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It's like the bind button is always push and never release then the RX can't bind.
In a first time just a link or a picture of your meter to see the scale and the value red in ohm to avoid a mistake.
Do you have a solder iron to try one or two things to see if the probleme can be solve in an easy way.

Géo .
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Yes I have got a crappy 60 watt hobbico solder iron, but I must admit I pretty much stink at soldering... So far I have only done things such as battery and esc wires, made a few deans plugs that sort of a thing. But I don't really see in this case what I've got to lose, except for the fact that I don't want to lose the ability to use the tx with the computer (fms), as that is the one thing it does well at this point. I can give it a try. Anyway I will shoot some pics in the a.m. I usually make the wife takes pics for me as she is better at it, and can get a clearer picture out of the camera etc. Oh well at least we know the source of the problem now right?
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 05:02 AM
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Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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Binding made easier.

Hi all -
Here is just a tidbit to make the HK and r2 systems easier to work on. You do not have to use the "binding" jumper. You can just toss it. I sure got tired of going back to my drawer full of rcvrs to find another one. Well, I won't leave you in the lurch any longer. Just use any servo and plug it into the bat port. Then, do your usual routine to bind the tx and rx together. Cool, huh. You will no longer have to worry about losing or misplacing that blasted little jumper or forgetting it when you go flying. Hope this works for all of you. Let me know. I have ONLY tried it on the HK and r2 rcvrs and it works great. I hope this info is of some use to you folks after all the super info that you have shared with me. Thanks all.
AJ
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 05:43 AM
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España, AL, Sevilla
Joined Apr 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86waterpumper
.....

I did check continuity between the two points shown on the pic above that say SW1 pads which I am guessing are the bind switch connectors...I have a crappy needle type meter or tester but it jumps halfway up the scale when these two solder blobs are touched and then when the bind button is pushed the hand moves further right and pegs the scale...so I am guessing this does show the bind switch is working? My meter has two settings xk and x10 so I don't know which is the best for checking..
Seems the switch is working OK, but you should test if it arrives to the RF board. Do the same continuity chech (swich pressed and depressed) at the two center pads of the RF board. You can do this without batteries, to avoid tthe risk of shorting Vcc. With the switch pushed, you shoud have the same reading as if you short the tester's leads.

If this test is OK, I'm afraid there is a problem in the RF module. Inspect it carefully for bad solders or shorts. It's a pity, but I think it might be very complicated to buy just this module as a repair part, but ask to HK (if it were possible, i would buy one just to experiment...). Worst case, at least you can buy another (extra RX), and keep this as a simulator/trainee TX...
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 11:51 AM
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A test between the middle two rf solder points, (sw1 and grnd) show a jump of halfway up the scale with no press, and then while holding the binding button the needle swings the rest of the way to the right. So MoFi you do not agree that the radio is always in a bind mode? Should not the measurement be nothing when I do not press the bind button or is halfway and then full with a press acceptable? I will try to take some pics in a bit of the rf unit and the meter etc...Even if I could buy just this rf unit from skyflychina or hobbyking, I doubt I could resolder all those tiny four wires to it successfully lol. What is the cheapest tx by itself you can order anywhere is it another one of these from hobby king or does another site have it cheaper?
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Rouen (FRANCE)
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Hi 86waterpumper,

from where are you ???, may be someone with electronic skill can help you, if the probleme can't be fixed throught the net, an other thing can be done is just cut half way the 4 cables (between de RF module and main board) and isolate it (it shoul be easier to put it back with soleder and shrink tubing), the TX can work on a simu without the RF module, and send it to someone (from this forum for exemple) not too far from you who has ability to test the RF module on a 4 or 6 channel radio.

But for now let's go for some test that can be done (photos, measure etc ... ) until we can not do more to find out the problem.

Géo .
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86waterpumper
A test between the middle two rf solder points, (sw1 and grnd) show a jump of halfway up the scale with no press, and then while holding the binding button the needle swings the rest of the way to the right. So MoFi you do not agree that the radio is always in a bind mode? Should not the measurement be nothing when I do not press the bind button or is halfway and then full with a press acceptable? I will try to take some pics in a bit of the rf unit and the meter etc...Even if I could buy just this rf unit from skyflychina or hobbyking, I doubt I could resolder all those tiny four wires to it successfully lol. What is the cheapest tx by itself you can order anywhere is it another one of these from hobby king or does another site have it cheaper?
I've made the same test on mine (even used my old analog neddle tester, instead of the digital ones, just in case), with exactly same results as you, so I guess the button is OK.

I've done some bindings with the TX's back cover off, and I've checked the RF module's LED (3rd photo-post#261) acts in a different way during the binding procedure, than during normal power up. In the normal power up there is a very fast blinking during less than 1 sec, and then more or less solid red. If I power up the TX with the binding switch pressed, it stays blinking more slowly (lets say 1-2 times/sec) until I release the button (which I keep pressed 3 to 5 sec), and then it returns to solid red (the RX previously powered up with binding plug in batt place).

You can try this, to see if it works the same in yours.

Also, you could check the antenna connection: As binding implies bidirectional communication between TX and receiver, might be a short or bad antenna connection could be the cause.
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Last edited by MoFl; Feb 22, 2009 at 05:45 PM.
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 06:04 PM
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Well for whatever reason something has eaten my sd card so no pics are possible today at least...I will try to get some up soon as I can of the rf module front and rear etc up close. MoFi, that's funny the led on your rf unit behaves differently on a bind etc. Mine does not. Upon power on, no matter if the button is held in or not, it never blinks, just lights solid red after a split second and stays solid, at least it appears solid to me, it's certainly not completely winking on and off etc. The antenna and wire LOOKS to be all good, but I know the wire could be bad. Is there anyway to test between the end of the wire and where the antenna mast screws on etc? I did test the antenna by the way. For laughs, I stole the stupid huge and long high gain antenna off my router, I can take a pic of it but basically it's twice the length at least of a stock antenna, I figured it couldn't hurt to boost the strength etc, but no binding with it on either, and with the case off, the led remains solid red during a bind push.
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 06:33 PM
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Hi 86waterpumper,

the radio open can you use a crocodile clip (i don't know the exact word), and put it on the RF module between Gnd and bind pins (to short them together) and power on the radio to see if the LED blinks.

Géo .
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 07:33 PM
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yes I've heard alligator clip but I know what you mean. I do have one of these too with a clip on each end that would short the pins. However, the two solder points are so tiny & close together that I cannot get the jaw of each clip on there, without either touching the other clip or another of the solder points I will have to try and find something smaller to short them with. What if I used my meater continuity test with the two leads of the needle type meter, will this short the pins as well or no??
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 07:49 PM
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That's right alligator clip sorry for the bad word, instead of that clip try a metal paper clip or something else to do a good short between the 2 solder pin.

Géo .
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 08:07 PM
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Haha yeah I figured out that you meant just the single one across both pins after I typed that At any rate, I tried the alligator clip, a bullet connector metal end, and a flathead screwdriver blade. Each of these items did not cause the led to blink, it remain solidly red, same thing with the paperclip. It seems like when you first power it on, the led sort of comes in initially and I wouldn't say it blinks but maybe it sort of barely surges one time you have to really watch it close to see it, but then it remains solidly lit. It is probably just acquiring full power on the initial power on I guess. Just a random thought, but if the radio was stuck in a non ending bind mode, would the rf led light be steadily blinking or no?
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 08:15 PM
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Ok there is some tests to do, with the radio off, test the R5 on the RF module you should read around 10 kOhm, next its a continuity test between the left pad SW1 on the main board and the left side of R5 on the RF module, your needle should go all over the scale (or 0 Ohm).
The RF module has a multilayer PCB, maybe there no contact between the bind wire and the little MCU where R5 goes.

Géo .
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Old Feb 22, 2009, 08:35 PM
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i put all the part of the radio back, on power on the LED goes red, but when i power it on with pushing the bind button the LED is flashing about every 1s until i release the bind button.

Géo .
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Old Feb 23, 2009, 01:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoFl
Hello, Hans.

I agree with you. No problem to run with 8xNiMh. The regulators would work OK down to 7 V (input).
Ok, using a Turborix 6ch Tx, I fitted the Tx with a new Esky Lama 2s 7.4v 900mha flight lipo, fully charged, to approx 8v, and within minutes of working with T6config (the configuration utility), The config screen glitched and I lost all my Tx settings! The Tx power light was glowing red from the start of course. Right now, that same battery is showing 8 volts on my multimeter.

I then fitted a 3s 11.1v lipo to the Tx, got a green light, loaded my saved config back in and everything was back to normal. I then range tested and flew my heli. Range test was done to 250 meters. While out there, I depressed the range test button and the model remained un full control with no signs of glitching, making me think the range test button does not function, unless I did not perform the function correctly.

Just thought I'd report that observation. It could be nasty in-flight.
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