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Old Feb 21, 2009, 09:39 AM
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I just pulled my new 6ch Rx from the box and it was missing the antenna, found it in the box :P

The antenna broke off at the PCB, and there is a blob of yellowish goop over the antenna/PCB joint, so I can't see how it is connected.

I really don't want to send this system back to China, I just want to fly with it, so, could someone suggest a repair I might be able to perform myself, or advise otherwise please?

Edit: Never Mind. I'll wing it :P
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 10:53 AM
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Thanks!

Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoFl
Link to a good manual at the beginning of this thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=962838



In the manual says 19 dB, about 80 mW.

In the web page, less than 20 dB (20dB=100mw). Quite a strange way of giving specs (maybe 20 dB a legal limit somewhere).

dBm-mW conversion: P(dBm)=10*log(P(mW)/1mW)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DBm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Decibel
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 10:55 AM
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@Congo:

Just remove the yellow blob (scratch carefully) and solder the antenna to the point where it broke.

This blob is just plain glue, placed there to stop vibration and avoid the antenna to break at the solder point (seem it didn't work in your case!)
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 11:18 AM
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Thanks a ton for the pics geo didn't mean to keep you up all hours hah. I have located my tester and am ready to test the various contacts. However there is a small problem...namely that my circuit board looks nothing whatsoever like yours LOL. Maybe there are two or three versions of this thing who knows. Here is the best pic I could get of mine, I have no lens really for taking super close ups...anyway ajbaker is exactly right. I just tested the rx with the binding plug off, and when it is powered in this fashion it shows no led. Only when the binding plug is in place does it flash, so it leads me to believe that both the binding plugs and the rx are probably fine. I really am leery of spending 50 or more bucks to have another whole setup shipped, what if I got another bad unit? I guess the chances might be low, but they are there, so it would be more tempting instead just to spend 100 and get a low end futaba or the dx5 spektrum etc...

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Old Feb 21, 2009, 12:08 PM
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Hi 86waterpumper,

At the top left of the PCB, on the left of R16 under the black piece where cables pass through, the is a solder bridge, may be a bad solder and that can shut off the RF transmission, try to remove this and make proper solder (keep in mind how it's before to get it back if nothing change).
Is your RF module is the same as the photo i sent ???, if yes you can see if there is +5V coming on and see if (with power off) there is continuity between the bind RF module pin and a ground on the main board when you push the bind button.

Géo .

PS: i'll try to put some color point where to take measure from your board
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86waterpumper
Thanks a ton for the pics geo didn't mean to keep you up all hours hah. I have located my tester and am ready to test the various contacts. However there is a small problem...namely that my circuit board looks nothing whatsoever like yours LOL. Maybe there are two or three versions of this thing who knows. Here is the best pic I could get of mine...
Hi, 86waterpumper.

Your photo corresponds to the 4 ch version (see photos at post#74, BTW the model that started the thread), while Géo's and mine are the 6 channel version (photos at post#149).

Anyway, the RF module is exactly the same, and the binding switch and rest of signals should be connected the same way. So, although it belongs to the 6ch version, the schematic shown at my post#227 can help you tracing the signals.

Also, have a look at post #91 (and related posts): Somebody received a radio (same model as yours) "fixed" in a rather strange way, just in the connector to the RF module. Could be yours has the same problem, but they forgot to "fix" it!

I'm adding some more info. The same TX of post#91 is in post#81 and posts nearby. Seems it has red and orange cables changed respect to mine and others shown in the thread. These cables are for GND and binding switch.

Here you have two photos, RF module and your mainboard, showing how signals should be connected, no matter which colours you have.

Also, there is a LED in the RF board that should be turned on under normal conditions. If your TX has the same problem as LeadWings', then the led shouldn't turn on.

Third photo is RF board top, showing this LED.
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 02:53 PM
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Hi MoFl,

thanks for your post and photos that i am sure will help 86waterpumper.

What do you think about the little MCU under the transceiver, do you have any idea which one could it be or it's special circuit that has been developed for FlySkychina.
They are the same on the receiver and satellite receiver.

Géo .
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 05:21 PM
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Hi, Géo.

It must be a MCU, given the way it is connected to the transceiver, inputs, etc, but I haven't been able to find anything about it.

The main receiver has not only one, but two of these MCUs, one in the top daughter board, which is exactly the same as secondary receiver (photo at post#258), and another one on the motherboard, connected to a serial eeprom (Atmel 24c02b)
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 05:28 PM
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Thanks greatly for the help! you are correct I have the 4 channel version. I must admit I am no wiring or circuit board guru so doing alot of hardcore tiny soldering is going to be beyond me lol. At any rate, I was able to verify easily enough that the tiny red led on the rf board lights solidly when the power button is switched on, so I take it I must not have the same exact issue as leadwing did. I will try to figure out which contacts to check for continuity etc, but which exact ones will show the bind switch working or not working? I am now guessing this is probably where the issue lies since the rf light lights up. Can you manually cross two solder points to cause the radio to bind, without the button etc? I mean once the two rx are bound they won't come unbound again anyway will they? Thanks again all for the help. I am a longtime rc car user so the multi channel and plane stuff is new to me...

I did check continuity between the two points shown on the pic above that say SW1 pads which I am guessing are the bind switch connectors...I have a crappy needle type meter or tester but it jumps halfway up the scale when these two solder blobs are touched and then when the bind button is pushed the hand moves further right and pegs the scale...so I am guessing this does show the bind switch is working? My meter has two settings xk and x10 so I don't know which is the best for checking..
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 06:01 PM
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Hi 86waterpumper,

can you measure the voltage on the RF module between Gnd and +5V with your radio power on with your voltmeter (Volt CC or Volt =).
When you test continuity put it on X1, to test it when you put together the 2 probes, the needle should jump all the way or to 0 ohm you should have a knob to adjust the zero.
If you read 5V at the RF module, then power off the radio and test the continuity between the right pad sw1 on the photo and the bind pin on the RF module with and without pushing the bind button, and tell us if all is right.

Géo .
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 06:25 PM
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Yet Another Thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86waterpumper
I guess the chances might be low, but they are there, so it would be more tempting instead just to spend 100 and get a low end futaba or the dx5 spektrum etc...
Golly, I sure admire your bravery and persistence. I hope you get that rascal fixed. I sure am curious what the fix is. Anyhow, you might consider moving up to a 6ch radio here . I had that r2 system (xmitter and rcvr) delivered to my doorstep for $60.30 a couple of months ago. The whole outfit is compatible with all the HK stuff and/or the stuff you already have. I own both the HK and the r2 and everything is compatible with each other. You will probably move up to 6ch sooner or later anyhow. Good luck and keep us posted. And, thanks to all you folks for helping 86waterpumper. You are all the best!!!
AJ
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 07:22 PM
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Thanks for the link ajbaker, the funds are tight at the moment, but that looks like a great price on a six channel for sure! I might look into that, if I could get this four channel working it would even be good to use on my rock crawler, that is why I got the extra rx, but would be a pain with the planes to consantly have to adjust trim etc. I agree that everyone here has been great, and a huge help. I appreciate it more than you know. There is more info on this radio in this thread alone than anywhere else on the net pretty much hah. I definately feel outgunned knowledge wise but I am trying to learn, I am just lucky it's the weekend and I have extra time to fool with this thing. Now on to the results lol. The rf voltage test did in fact result in a 5 volt reading. I only have a 2.5 and then a 10 volt setting on my meter, but on the 10 volt it sits exactly straight up and down in the middle so that's good enough for govt. work hah. The other test between the right sw1 pad and the rf orange sw1 attachment wire solder point, when you test without pushing the bind button it swings at least 3/4 way up the gauge maybe a tad more, but when you push in the bind button it swings the rest of the way on over to the right, so I guess that would show it is working as it should?...
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 07:42 PM
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Thankyou MoFl, the antenna ended up 2mm shorter, I may eventually try to replace it if that's a problem, but at least I can continue prepping my model now.
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 07:59 PM
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Hi 86waterpumper,

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86waterpumper
The other test between the right sw1 pad and the rf orange sw1 attachment wire solder point, when you test without pushing the bind button it swings at least 3/4 way up the gauge maybe a tad more,
the needle shouldn't move it's like you radio stay in a binding mod, we have to find why there is no open circuit when the bind button is release.
can you take a picture closer (the right of the main board) and the RF module, to see if there is something wrong.

Géo .

PS: and a picture of your meter.
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Old Feb 21, 2009, 09:27 PM
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Sure I can try to take more pics tommorow, but like I say, I have no way to take much more of a better close up of the board I don't think...wife has a nice camera canon rebel etc but has no close up "macro" lens of any kind but I will see what I can do. I can take a pic of the meter as well and what it is showing. So instead of the meter swinging 3/4 up it should totally be at a rest until the bind button is pushed then? But if the radio was stuck in a binding mode, I can see how it woudln't work, but I can't really understand why the rx wouldn't go ahead and turn solid and bind, but I can see how the tx itself wouldn't work for sure...
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