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Old Aug 22, 2009, 01:27 PM
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OK...here it is looking at the pin end of actual connector...is this correct?

On my way out....yard sailing with GF...Yippy but there aparently is an engine from a B-29 in an estate sale....got my camera in hand.
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 01:50 PM
Heli Humbled Daily
Riverside, CA
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reacher10
OK...here it is looking at the pin end of actual connector...is this correct?

On my way out....yard sailing with GF...Yippy but there aparently is an engine from a B-29 in an estate sale....got my camera in hand.
Yes, those are the correct pins on an S-video connector, as long as the S-video cable has a ground connected to the shield, which some apparently do not.

Of note, the last pin that is unlabeled there sends PMM data, that can be used as a trainer cable for a buddy box after the modifications to a Master controller that I detailed a few pages back.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1697
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 03:09 PM
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Espaņa, AL, Sevilla
Joined Apr 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liorz055
Hi you all,
I have just got my HK-t6A Tx , I have this USB cable http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11996 when i connect the HK-T6A I can use it with FMS simulator and it is working well, However I cant use this cable in order to config my Tx with t6config , I red that you can change the programing cable into a simulator cable with PPjoy and T6sim my question is if I can do the opposite (changing simulator cable into configuration cable).
I have allready ordered the XP cable from Hobbycity but since it is Backorder it will take a lot of time untill i will get it.
Sorry for my lousy english.
Thanks everyone
Lior
No, you can't use that cable for programming, it's also an "output" (from TX to PC) cable, no communication in the opposite way.

Your cable uses the PPM out signal, and converts it to what the PC sees as a USB joystick.

The programming cable uses two different signals, TX and RX data, which are a serial port to communicate the PC with the microcontroller inside the radio.

So you'll have to wait for the appropriate cable... unless you can get another TTL serial to USB cable (quite normal in other uses, e.g. phone programming), or a level converter (RS232 to TTL), if your PC has an standard serial port.
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 04:33 PM
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LI, NY,
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemachus
Yes, those are the correct pins on an S-video connector, as long as the S-video cable has a ground connected to the shield, which some apparently do not.

Of note, the last pin that is unlabeled there sends PMM data, that can be used as a trainer cable for a buddy box after the modifications to a Master controller that I detailed a few pages back.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1697

Ok excellent.

I soldered the ground to the shield.

I'm all set with the cable just waiting for the Palm V and the shifter. Thats good to know about the trainer cable, just yesterday a guy who is learning on a buddy box crashed his Art-Tech yak yesterday because he has this same radio 4 ch radio with an art-tech lable on it....maybe I can hook him up.

Thanks

On a seperate note I just bought a B-29 radial engine nah...just kidding, there was one there. I post the pics in a different thread. There are some sizable RC planes that go up for sale next Friday morning. One was at least a 10' WS sea plane. I will be there for sure.

EDIT: I did pick a sheet load of music wire, alum. struts, alum. tube, etc. of all different sizes for $6.00.
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemachus
the only thing left that I need is some EXPO to make this one slick radio!
Wouldn't that be a simple solution? Not real expo, but who noticed the difference?

Assumption made is: The stick potentiometer has at least 0.25 Watt.

A 1 or 2 KOhm resistor connected from the middle point of the stick poti to the ground side of the poti should give the shown curve (combine it with a switch to switch it on or off).

Horizontally the stick movement from min to max, vertically the resulting voltage (= servo movement).

But DONT MAKE THE RESISTOR LOWER THAN 1 KOhm or your poti may burn off.

(A Poti of .25W and 5KOhm can withstand a current of 7mA.
5KOhm attached to 5Volt gives 1 mA.
The additional resistor may drain 6 mA max without overloading the poti.
1 KOhm at 5 Volt -> 5mA, so that's safe, if the poti is really 0.25 Watt or more.)

Reinhard
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Old Aug 22, 2009, 05:05 PM
Heli Humbled Daily
Riverside, CA
Joined Jul 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReSt
Wouldn't that be a simple solution? Not real expo, but who noticed the difference?

Assumption made is: The stick potentiometer has at least 0.25 Watt.

A 1 or 2 KOhm resistor connected from the middle point of the stick poti to the ground side of the poti should give the shown curve (combine it with a switch to switch it on or off).

Horizontally the stick movement from min to max, vertically the resulting voltage (= servo movement).

But DONT MAKE THE RESISTOR LOWER THAN 1 KOhm or your poti may burn off.

(A Poti of .25W and 5KOhm can withstand a current of 7mA.
5KOhm attached to 5Volt gives 1 mA.
The additional resistor may drain 6 mA max without overloading the poti.
1 KOhm at 5 Volt -> 5mA, so that's safe, if the poti is really 0.25 Watt or more.)

Reinhard
Nice... could even set up a 3 way switch, with a series of resistors ranging .83 ohm (the minumum that should be tolerated given your example) to 2 kohm, and could set up a scenario ranging from about 5% to 20% expo...

Although if the radio can handle a throttle curve on one channel, there should also be a way to have the controller handle similar curves on the other channels, in which case you could use "curves" to create your own expo...
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Old Aug 23, 2009, 12:06 AM
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USA, CA, Novato
Joined Jul 2008
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just a fyi i've confrimed that the 8ch hobbycity rx is compatible with my turborix 6 channel tx.
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Old Aug 23, 2009, 06:10 AM
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F-111 John's Avatar
Holt, MI
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telemachus
Although if the radio can handle a throttle curve on one channel, there should also be a way to have the controller handle similar curves on the other channels, in which case you could use "curves" to create your own expo...
That's the frustrating thing with this radio. There is so much potential, but it's limited by the software.

Three mixes? You use up all three making flapperons. A v-tail or delta wing uses two mixes, so you can't have a model with both flapperons and a v-tail, and you can't add flapperons to a delta wing. Heck, with flapperons you can't even use the sixth channel, so you can't have flapperons and retracts!

And as you point out, if the radio can do both a pitch and a throttle curve (not to mention the processing math necessary for the heli swashplate mixing modes...,) then the chip can handle the calculations necessary for expo on three channels. All it would take is some code.

This radio was designed as a heli radio first, and is well suited for that purpose with the two analog knobs. The aero mode was almost an afterthought, it seems to me. You can assign a switch to be a throttle cut, which directly acts on a channel, so they could have at least added a channel on/off function assignable to a switch as well for gear or such, without burning up a mix.

However, that said, it's still a heck of a radio for the money.
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Old Aug 23, 2009, 07:20 AM
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Thank you MoFl

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoFl
No, you can't use that cable for programming, it's also an "output" (from TX to PC) cable, no communication in the opposite way.
....
Thanks
I guess I Should be patient now.
Lior
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Old Aug 23, 2009, 08:12 AM
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F-111 John's Avatar
Holt, MI
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReSt
Wouldn't that be a simple solution? Not real expo, but who noticed the difference?

Assumption made is: The stick potentiometer has at least 0.25 Watt.

A 1 or 2 KOhm resistor connected from the middle point of the stick poti to the ground side of the poti should give the shown curve (combine it with a switch to switch it on or off).

Horizontally the stick movement from min to max, vertically the resulting voltage (= servo movement).

But DONT MAKE THE RESISTOR LOWER THAN 1 KOhm or your poti may burn off.

(A Poti of .25W and 5KOhm can withstand a current of 7mA.
5KOhm attached to 5Volt gives 1 mA.
The additional resistor may drain 6 mA max without overloading the poti.
1 KOhm at 5 Volt -> 5mA, so that's safe, if the poti is really 0.25 Watt or more.)

Reinhard
I've been trying to remember what I read in RC Modeler Magazine almost 30 years ago. Back then radios were all analog, so there were several 'how to' articles to add dual rates and expo to your radio.

As I recall, to add dual rates, you added fixed resistors to each end of the joystick pot, and shorted them out with a DPDT switch for dual rates.

For expo, I think you added two resistors, one a pull up and one a pull down, to the center wiper lead. You only show one half of the circuit.

For example, given a 5K linear taper pot, at mid pot you would have 50% of VCC, At either extreme of the pot, you would have 100% or 0% of VCC.

If you moved the stick so that the effective circuit of the pot were a 1K and a 4K resistor in series, you'd have 80% VCC. But with the two 5K resistors added to the wiper, you'd have an equivent circuit of an 833 ohm and 2.222K ohm resistor in series, and you'd have 72% of VCC at the wiper, which is down from the 80% without the resistors, or an expo action.

If you change the value of two fixed resistors, you'd change the amount of expo.

At least that's what I recall from reading many moons ago.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 01:41 AM
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Cornwall, UK
Joined Dec 2007
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I'm not having much luck with the 4-cell conversion. It basically works, but, like I posted a few days ago, I get slight jitter/twitching on all the servos.

I've tried removing the regulators and bypass wires, fitting 100uH radial inductors instead. This made no difference. Looks like I'll have to refit the regulators and add more cells.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 03:14 AM
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XJet's Avatar
Tokoroa
Joined Mar 2004
3,827 Posts
Try better batteries.

I don't mean higher-capacity, I mean lower internal resistance. It's possible that your batteries are too "soft" and that's causing the drain from the RF board to create excessive voltage drop.

Get some good Sanyo 1600mAH NiMH AA cells, they've got a nice low internal resistance. Forget about the ultra-hi capacity NiMH cells (anything over 1800mAH -- they're as soft as marshmallow when you start drawing any reasonable current.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 03:58 AM
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Germany
Joined Dec 2003
5,331 Posts
Get eneloop cells from Sanyo!

They are the best NiMh choice for TX and medium current RX applications.
My 6ch Turborix runs just great on them.
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 06:27 AM
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Joined Feb 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Julez
Get eneloop cells from Sanyo!

They are the best NiMh choice for TX and medium current RX applications.
My 6ch Turborix runs just great on them.
+1

I get them at one of my local supermarkets as the house brand.
(President's Choice brand from Loblaws Groceries )

Edit: the key tho finding them re-branded is to look for pre-charged NiMH
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Old Aug 24, 2009, 06:46 AM
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USA, KS
Joined Oct 2005
1,040 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julez
Get eneloop cells from Sanyo!

They are the best NiMh choice for TX and medium current RX applications.
My 6ch Turborix runs just great on them.

http://www.thomasdistributing.com/sh...b8ufioamutejn5
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