|Dec 10, 2008, 07:51 PM|
Joined Dec 2008
which electric airplane is the best for bigginers?
I will like to know what company make the best rc airplanes? Wich one sales more replacement parts if i crash my plane?
|Dec 10, 2008, 08:20 PM|
LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
|Dec 10, 2008, 08:34 PM|
|Dec 10, 2008, 10:26 PM|
Joined Jul 2008
Get a hobbyzone supercub, you wont regret it. Sure the built in ESC and the 5 wire servos are cheesy, also the radio sometimes has interference BUT it is the easiest plane to learn on ever! Parts are available at almost all hobby stores, but in most of the few crashes you will have foam glue and duck tape will work fine.
|Dec 10, 2008, 11:59 PM|
Albuquerque, New Mexico
Joined Oct 2008
The Super Cub is a very good starter plane. There is also a new smaller super cub by hobbyzone with anti crash technology. Nice to have all the stuff you need in one box when you are getting started. I think a foam trainer is always a great place to start too. I like the GWS Slo Stik too. But, everyone has an opinion. You'll find one you like. After you fly a few.
|Dec 11, 2008, 07:04 AM|
LI, New York, USA
Joined Mar 2003
Getting your first plane? What should you get?
If you have an instructor, follow his/her advice as to what to get as your
plane. Getting info here is good, but discuss it with the instructor before you buy.
If you are going to be helping a new flyer learn to fly,
this thread might be helpful. Here is the method I use to teach:
Helping people Learn to Fly
RTF, ARF or KIT? What does this mean?
An RTF, Ready-To-Fly, typically requires virtually no building.
is built. You attach the wing and perhaps the tail and you are done.
Typical investment of time is 15 minutes to 2 hours. The Aerobird 3
is a good example of an RTF plane.
RTFs ALWAYS include an installed radio system an may also
include the battery and charger.
ARF vs kit. How are they different? Depends on your definition.
ARFs and kits always require you to buy and install the electronics.
However some of the makers, such as Mountain Models and GWS,
offer select packages that include the kit and the electronics. You still
have to assemble/build, but all the guess work is taken out of what
electronics to buy. This makes it very easy for the first time builder
to get it right. The radio itself is usually not included in these
Most wood KITS are a box of sticks and sheet parts that are cut from larger
sheets. You glue them together to form the structure then you cover it
with heat shrink film, some other covering, or paint the finished structure.
Build time could run 10-30 hours including gluing, covering and fitting
out with the electronics. The Mountain Models Dandy would be an example.
As an example, Mountain Models wood kits, are typically very complete and
often include the motor, the hardware and the covering material or they provide a list of recommended parts to make it easy for you. For some people, kit building is as much or more fun than flying the planes. If you want to try your first wood kit, Mountain kits have an outstanding reputation for ease and completeness. This thread talks about their
Wood ARFs are typically kits that are already built and covered into major
structures such as fuselage, wings, tail, etc. Here you are doing final
assembly. The Vista-EP is a good example.
Typical build time is in the 3-8 hour range. Much less time and
much less skill is required. Then you install the electronics.
All foam kits, in my opinion, are more similar to ARFs than they are to
wood kits. They typically consist of large molded pieces that glue or friction
fit together. Typical is 3-10 hours to complete. The Multiplex Easy Star is a good example.
Foam kits are easy for the new builder. So I consider most foam kits to be more ARF than
kit. Multiplex and GWS kits fall into this kit/ARF class and are usually very
complete. As a first step from an RTF, these can be very good choices.
> Foam/wood kits are likely to require some stick and sheet assembly, but
> typically much less work than an all wood kit. The Mountain Models
> SmoothE is a good example.
> The fuselage is wood but the wing is foam. Very easy for the first time
> builder to be successful.
> There are many other brands that provide very high quality products. I
use these companies as examples because I often recommend their planes.
> How much space do you have for flying? If you have totally
> clear space of at least 600'X600', about 9 square acres, approx
> 4-6 squarefootball/soccer fields, then I can recommend one
> class o plane.
> If your space is more like 200X200 (one square acre or one
> soccer field ) then a different plane is in order. If it is
> ess than that, different again.
> These are my own designations and are based on my subjective
> ranking of the sace a new flyer should have when learning on
> his own. An experienced fyer can fly faster planes in smaller spaces,
> but a new flyer wants to have more space so you are not in a constant
> state of panic trying to turn.
> Remember you can get above the edges of the field and expand your space,
> but if you lose control, you drop in woods, on top of kids or smash
> someone's windshield. If that windshield is in a car is traveling
> down a road when you hit the windshield, you could cause an
> accident or worse so be very careful about how you plan your flying area.
> So much for space. You get the idea.
> I don't recommend most pretty planes as first planes. They
> are too easy to break, too hard to fix and look bad in short
> order. There is only one semi-scale plane that has a reputation of being
> super tough that I do recommend, the HobbyZone Super Cub.
> I don't recommend two channel R/T or differential thrust
> planes, the ones with two motors, so you won't find any on
> the list. If you want one of these, I would suggest the Firebird Commander 2 from HobbyZone or the AeroAce from Air Hogs. They can be very
> easy to fly and can be a lot of fun, but they can also be very easy to lose.
You should plan to fly them in calm air when you are first starting or the
> wind can just carry them away.
> I feel a high wing three channel R/E/T plane is your best choice for a first
> plane. R/E/T will require a little more learning than the two channel R/E
> planes but is a better choice as a first plane, in my opinion. These use
> the same control inputs as more advanced planes and can be flown in
> more wind once you have mastered them in calm conditions.
> If you are totally new to RC Flying, this article may be
> Six Keys to Success for new e-flyers
|Dec 11, 2008, 10:53 AM|
Multiplex Easystar. Been the standard recommendation at the local field for quite a while now. Easy to fly. Can be bought complete with standardized equipment. Flies well. Easy to repair because of the use of the best foam in the industry. The Super Cub is another winner, but, the radio gear you get with the Easy Star is standard 3-wire made by Hitec/Multiplex.
|Dec 11, 2008, 01:54 PM|
Deep in the East Texas Piney Woods
Joined Dec 2001
The Easystar is what I tell new flyers to get because of the pusher motor/prop. When you crash it, and you will, probably many times, you do not ruin the power system.
And it's the toughest bird I've seen so far.
|Dec 11, 2008, 02:33 PM|
United States, NJ, Brooklawn
Joined Jul 2008
My trained response is the Hobbyzone Super Cub, However I'd wait on that for now. HZ just released a 'mini' version of the super cub. I'd wait and see what reviewers say about it.
|Dec 11, 2008, 03:34 PM|
USA, FL, North Lauderdale
Joined Nov 2006
I started with an EasyStar and I absolutely love it. The only downside is that it flies faster and needs a larger flying area than some of the other beginner planes. It flies very well on the stock RTF setup. The only things I would suggest would be getting some 7-cell battery packs to replace the stock 6-cell pack and getting an APC 6x4E prop (and collet adapter). These two simple changes will give the plane just a touch more power (and you'll want an extra battery pack or two anyway).
If you have the open space, get an EasyStar!
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