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Old Apr 03, 2009, 12:27 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campcrafter
Hmmm! if i have to enlarge the area with a soldering pencil, then how will the motor mount fit. Can you put some images of the mods done by you.
Since the nose will be heavy due to the increase in motor weight, can we adjust the cg by positioning the camera under the fuse nearer the trailing edge so that the CG is balanced. Since the inrunner motors are thinner, can i use this

http://cgi.ebay.in/IN-RUNNER-BRUSHLE...4.c0.m14.l1262

how much wattage will this one give. ( i will be using this on my EZ*)

i have already ordered for the cub and should be here over the weekend.
thanks
First off - the kv of that inrunner is WAY to high! 3600kv!

Stick with between 1200 - 1500kv for an Easy Cub.

Second - you aren't enlarging the opening where the motor mount is, there is nothing on an outrunner that is spinning at that point - so a snug fit is fine. You need to enlarge the cavity where the magnet barrel of the outrunner will rub against the inside cavity. Can't take any pictures, plane it together and a shot of that small area would be kind impossible.

Just test fit the 35mm motor and see where it rubs against the elapor.

Lastly - Now you could easily use an inrunner, no reason you can't and then you wouldn't have a concern about a rotating part rubbing against the inside cavity. BUT, you need to buy one in the 1500kv range and one that will deliver about 350 - 500 watts with a 10" prop. Start hunting.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 12:59 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
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So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Reseach and learn.

Quote:
Originally Posted by campcrafter
anyways, its already shipped, so if i use it with the regular prop as advised by the vendor and run it at only 4/5th throttle will it cause any trouble with the motor or ESC. ESC is 40amps.
thanks
That finned inrunner is meant for a car or Heli, not an airplane and certainly not an EasyStar. There are a lot of disreputable online dealers around that will promise anything (I can think of many, including NitroPlanes and all their AKA's like Raidentech, BananaHobby, + 20 more - they all have the same or similar phone number in the City of Industry / LA area).

At 3600kv, you'll barely be able to swing a 5x3 prop without frying the ESC, motor and your battery. Rule of thumb, higher the kv, the smaller the dia and pitch of the prop. Otherwise you'll drive that wattage (= heat) through the roof. If you don't know what you are doing, ask experienced RC'er familiar with the plane you're building, sometimes that's the local hobby shop manager, sometimes it's at the local flying club.

You can't just arbitrarily pick a motor, any old ESC and battery size / type and expect it to work, let alone survive! Download Drive Calc Here and READ the instruction and learn how to use it before you buy stuff.

I have a hot-rodded Easy Star and before I decided on a power system I researched, used Motor Calc and researched some more. I calculated a 2700kv inrunner was my best choice for fast 60 degree climbs and to carry a 2.4Ghz live color video camera built into an alternate canopy I have.

Sorry, I don't have a pic of the camera canopy. And this isn't an EasyStar thread anyway and should keep it for Easy Cub Mod discussions. If you want to see my Hot-modded Easy Star, go to this very active Easy Star thread HERE

I'm only uploading a small teaser pic here.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 01:02 AM
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thanks for the detailed write up.
now its time for me to start my search.
everything makes sense.
will be recieving my cub within 2 days. I will keep you all posted
thanks again.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makeitworst
That finned inrunner is meant for a car or Heli, not an airplane and certainly not an EasyStar. There are a lot of disreputable online dealers around that will promise anything (I can think of many, including NitroPlanes and all their AKA's like Raidentech, BananaHobby, + 20 more - they all have the same or similar phone number in the City of Industry / LA area).

At 3600kv, you'll barely be able to swing a 5x3 prop without frying the ESC, motor and your battery. Rule of thumb, higher the kv, the smaller the dia and pitch of the prop. Otherwise you'll drive that wattage (= heat) through the roof. If you don't know what you are doing, ask experienced RC'er familiar with the plane you're building, sometimes that's the local hobby shop manager, sometimes it's at the local flying club.

You can't just arbitrarily pick a motor, any old ESC and battery size / type and expect it to work, let alone survive! Download Drive Calc Here and READ the instruction and learn how to use it before you buy stuff.

I have a hot-rodded Easy Star and before I decided on a power system I researched, used Motor Calc and researched some more. I calculated a 2700kv inrunner was my best choice for fast 60 degree climbs and to carry a 2.4Ghz live color video camera built into an alternate canopy I have.

Sorry, I don't have a pic of the camera canopy. And this isn't an EasyStar thread anyway and should keep it for Easy Cub Mod discussions. If you want to see my Hot-modded Easy Star, go to this very active Easy Star thread HERE

I'm only uploading a small teaser pic here.

yes my query is for the cub since thats what i am going to build over the weekend. the easystar became part of the discussion since the goods were arriving. part has been explained but i will go to the specific thread for more on the EZ*. We should discuss the cub here.
thanks
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campcrafter
yes my query is for the cub since thats what i am going to build over the weekend. the easystar became part of the discussion since the goods were arriving. part has been explained but i will go to the specific thread for more on the EZ*. We should discuss the cub here.
thanks
Amen ......
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 06:25 AM
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Has anyone fitted a Non-wire type landing gear setup? ......
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 10:11 AM
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i wa swondering the same, cause i too am planning to have a more stronger landing gear to withstand the added weight and also the impact on a rough landing. aluminium is what i intend to use with holes drilled in to it to make it lighter. As of now i am still insearch of a motor that weighs around 75 gms. 250 to 350 watts power, 890 kv, and dimensions of 28 x 33 mm.

hope to find something.
in case any of you come across something like this please let me know.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 10:14 AM
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i think this should do. But what wattage would this be-draw?

http://cgi.ebay.in/Turborix-1050-rpm...4.c0.m14.l1262
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 11:15 AM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campcrafter
i wa swondering the same, cause i too am planning to have a more stronger landing gear to withstand the added weight and also the impact on a rough landing. aluminium is what i intend to use with holes drilled in to it to make it lighter. As of now i am still insearch of a motor that weighs around 75 gms. 250 to 350 watts power, 890 kv, and dimensions of 28 x 33 mm.

hope to find something.
in case any of you come across something like this please let me know.
You are not likely to get 250 to 350 watts out of a 28mm Dia brushless. Volts x amps = Watts (DEPENDING on the prop used). And you aren't going to lift a heavy camera with less than 300 watts in that airframe and have any decent time in the air. This all boils down to, again, doing your CALCULATIONS.

I thought you wanted a 35mm dia motor??

Look at these and do your homework.

TR 35-30B 1400kv Brushless Outrunner HobbyCity

TR 35-30C 1100kv Brushless Outrunner HobbyCity

TGY AerodriveXp SK Series 35-30 1400Kv / 470w HobbyCity

The one of a few 28mm Dia exceptions delivering +300w
Turnigy2836 brushless Outrunner 1200kv HobbyCity

MOST IMPORTANTLY!! - READ the reviews and testing by other buyers on each motor on the Hobby City site. Some reviews / tests are very good, some are just hot air.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makeitworst
That "Dualsky Brushless 350W Motor - 3536CA 990" is not going to fit inside the nose, if it is 35mm x 36mm as it's model name suggests - unless you cut away the inside of the engine compartments fuselage.
yes i do want approx 350w motor, and the link sent is one of the options.

the other are:

http://cgi.ebay.in/BRUSHLESS-OUT-RUN...4.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.in/Turborix-1050-rpm...4.c0.m14.l1262


now correct me please. i am terrible with numbers:

1ooo x 2 = 2000 and
would it be 1050 x 15 = 15750.

also anything here.
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Old Apr 03, 2009, 10:35 PM
UH-1 Gunship, AH-1G jock 69-71
makeitworst's Avatar
So Cal ... Kingdom of Taxes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campcrafter
yes i do want approx 350w motor, and the link sent is one of the options.

the other are:

http://cgi.ebay.in/BRUSHLESS-OUT-RUN...4.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.in/Turborix-1050-rpm...4.c0.m14.l1262


now correct me please. i am terrible with numbers:

1ooo x 2 = 2000 and
would it be 1050 x 15 = 15750.

also anything here.
Have to tell you that I have no idea what your "values" 1000, 2, 1050 or 15 mean???

But you did prove you can multiple.
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Old Apr 04, 2009, 12:30 AM
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no, not proving multipication. these are the amps and volts of the motors in the links. according to the formula volts x amps = watts, then do the results indicate the wattage of these motors????
which ampereage and which voltage is to be taken into consideration if i want to find out the wattage of these motors.
also the size of the actual motor and the numbers given by the company vary, so how does one figure out the actuals.
sorry, i am probing, but i want to get a deeper and clearer understanding, and guys at the field are all into nitros.

by the way! the links you sent were very useful to me. Out of the four motors, which one do you reason would be the best interms of power and efficiency.

thank you
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Old Apr 04, 2009, 02:19 AM
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also in this motor http://www.rotor.co.in/show-detail.asp?prodid={0698184B-80CE-4EC1-968F-B3F94E0F2D2F}&pn=1 do we take voltage as 980kv and amp as 0.7, 14 or 12 for calculations? these guys would make it much more simpler by simply adding the watts there too.
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Old Apr 04, 2009, 02:27 AM
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http://www.rotor.co.in/show-detail.asp?prodid={F9AA89AB-1315-445C-8957-7D47987BA385}&pn=1

http://www.rotor.co.in/show-detail.asp?prodid={070D570F-313B-4727-965A-4183A190F5B2}&pn=2

comments on the motors suitability.?
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Old Apr 05, 2009, 09:30 AM
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I think i got it.

i've been taking the kv given, rather than the battery voltage. makeitworst thanks for explaining.

By the way, i recieved my mpx EC and must say its awsome. The motor will fix with screws from the front ( shaft ) side and not the back end where the wires are located.
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