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Old Sep 17, 2010, 12:29 PM
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MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
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Lower pitch will give you more of the throttle curve to utilize before your past the point of keeping the plane in high alpha .

Limiting the throttle on the radio works somewhat but it also heats up the ESC more with chances of burning it up . You will not save anything by doing this . The ESC will still see the max current for your setup no matter where your throttle is at , except off . And no , you will not see this on your watt meter . I thought the same thing on the limiting till I was set straight by electronic guru's .

Funny how everyone has issues running the plane on 3s . Easy fix . They fly great on 2s and are not designed for or need 3s unless you start getting bigger like 42" . I fly out in 5-10mph winds and 2s still works fine . I have flown numerous 3d Electrics and tried all this stuff on them . If you want the best 3D flyer go with what works for the plane , not your ego , and learn to fly it . The lightest you can keep it is the best choice . The problem isnt needing more power . The problems lie in your skill as a 3d flyer . Pratice, practice , practice . If you want a fast sport flyer build a jet .

This is also one plane that , in my oppinion , no expo is needed . These EPP foam planes flex a lot in flight even at slow speeds . I would have never believed this but the flex in the airframe acts as expo . So if you add a bunch of expo to these foammy's it really takes the feel away . Give it a try . Take half the expo away that you have programmed into your EPP and fly it . Take all the expo out and try it again . Compare and see what you like . I think many of you will learn 3d faster this way . If you have no feel the plane is flying you .
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 02:41 PM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
Joined Nov 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMcChiken View Post
Lower pitch will give you more of the throttle curve to utilize before your past the point of keeping the plane in high alpha .

Limiting the throttle on the radio works somewhat but it also heats up the ESC more with chances of burning it up . You will not save anything by doing this . The ESC will still see the max current for your setup no matter where your throttle is at , except off . And no , you will not see this on your watt meter . I thought the same thing on the limiting till I was set straight by electronic guru's .

Funny how everyone has issues running the plane on 3s . Easy fix . They fly great on 2s and are not designed for or need 3s unless you start getting bigger like 42" . I fly out in 5-10mph winds and 2s still works fine . I have flown numerous 3d Electrics and tried all this stuff on them . If you want the best 3D flyer go with what works for the plane , not your ego , and learn to fly it . The lightest you can keep it is the best choice . The problem isnt needing more power . The problems lie in your skill as a 3d flyer . Pratice, practice , practice . If you want a fast sport flyer build a jet .

This is also one plane that , in my oppinion , no expo is needed . These EPP foam planes flex a lot in flight even at slow speeds . I would have never believed this but the flex in the airframe acts as expo . So if you add a bunch of expo to these foammy's it really takes the feel away . Give it a try . Take half the expo away that you have programmed into your EPP and fly it . Take all the expo out and try it again . Compare and see what you like . I think many of you will learn 3d faster this way . If you have no feel the plane is flying you .
Interesting post....I would question your "electronic guru", there are many out there you know. The Rx interprets what signal is given by the Tx, then passes it on to the esc.

Flex being expo, hmm, I can only notice my plane flexing in the middle of the fuse, Not sure how that induces expo, the flex depends on my speed, direction, position, etc. On a epp edge I put in some CF to stiffen it up and a very small weight gain. I think expo is really a personal thing, you get use to what you are use to. If you fly a plane with expo, then fly a plane with no expo, then right back to the plane with expo, your fingers and mind get confused. I keep most of mine about the same.

Most things are much simpler than what we make them. I agree about the 2s, I fly a heavier epp Edge on 3s outdoors and like it.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 03:39 PM
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Which motor is it? It depends a lot on the motor and the battery that you use. If the motor is capable of 90-100W, then I would guess 8x4DD for flying outdoors. If its too much power on 3S go for 2S or limit throttle on the radio.
I'm not quite sure what my motor is capable of. I got it at my lhs. Is there an easy way to find out?
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 04:51 PM
jib
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Covington, WA
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I see what he means by flex = expo. Expo is the desensitizing of the controls around the center of the controls. Flex also desensitizes the controls, because the plane does not respond as quickly. Both do provide somewhat similar experiences; i.e., you call for aileron and don’t quite get all you would get without expo or with a stiff responsive plane.

I find I like expo on my (non-foam) combat planes. Some of them are so twitchy, they are difficult or just not fun to fly without expo. I fly foamies with my DX5e, hence no expo and I have no issues with it or going back and forth between the two.

In general, expo makes a plane easier to fly. Normally, I wouldn’t say the same for flex in an airframe, but I see where Mike is coming from.

Jack
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzballOfDoom View Post
I'm not quite sure what my motor is capable of. I got it at my lhs. Is there an easy way to find out?
If you have make and model number, I am sure someone would recognize it. Is there anything written on it or the box it came in?
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 05:30 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
The Gehto,Ca.
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robj View Post
Interesting post....I would question your "electronic guru", there are many out there you know. The Rx interprets what signal is given by the Tx, then passes it on to the esc.

...Most things are much simpler than what we make them. I agree about the 2s, I fly a heavier epp Edge on 3s outdoors and like it.
Its hard for me to explain and I had 3 people explain it to me . The last being a tech from CastleCreations . The esc constantly switches on and off when it is running the motor . Depending where you throttle stick is tells how many times it is on vs. how many times it is off which allows the motor to run at a certain RPM . No matter where you throttle is when the esc switches on , the motor is trying to pull the max amount of amps your setup allows . So in turn , if you have a setup at WOT that pulls 60amps and you have 40amp speed controler , you are still damaging your esc even if you limit your throttle . Somebody should put this in with instructions when you buy a ESC . I always try to run a esc bigger than what I plan to pull at WOT . How the internal bec comes into play on the overall rating on the esc I am still not sure on . Probly differs with various manufactures .

This is the info I got from very experinced individuals . Dont take my word for it . Call Castle or Hacker . Just letting others know what I learned cause they certainly dont mention any of this tell you start burning stuff up . Kinda like going into a store and buying your first lipo and no-one telling you how to handle them safely or how dangerous they really are .

I have a 42" Midwest yak and that one deffinately needs 3s . Especialy with all the darn paint I put on it . OOOpppps .
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 4Dim View Post
If you have make and model number, I am sure someone would recognize it. Is there anything written on it or the box it came in?
BL-2212/10 is on the motor. Other than that there's nothing.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzballOfDoom View Post
BL-2212/10 is on the motor. Other than that there's nothing.
Is this the motor?
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...7&pid=B1488466
If so, you are running this on the bigger Yak right?
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 06:15 PM
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Idk why I haven't finished this dang plane yet hahaha I just hate making all the pushrods and everything... I've decided that I'm gonna bite the bullet tonight or tomorrow though and get it in the air...
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nagayama13 View Post
Is this the motor?
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...7&pid=B1488466
If so, you are running this on the bigger Yak right?
That's the right motor, and no, I have the standard yak. should I be using a smaller motor? This is my first plane, and the guy at my lhs said this would be a good motor.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 07:45 PM
OSMBuddha
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Originally Posted by FuzzballOfDoom View Post
That's the right motor, and no, I have the standard yak. should I be using a smaller motor? This is my first plane, and the guy at my lhs said this would be a good motor.
This is what alot of us are using, or something very similar:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=8618
Note, it weighs 26 grams.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 08:09 PM
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I was going to use that, but I didn't want to wait for it to be shipped.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 08:25 PM
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The 2212/10 is probably overkill for a standard size Yak. I use one on a 16oz. GWS E-Starter. The 2212/10 is nearly twice as heavy as the TGY/HXT 2730. I don't know how you'd get the plane to balance right with it.
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Old Sep 17, 2010, 09:27 PM
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I haven't had any balancing issues with it, but I will probably get a smaller motor eventually
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Old Sep 18, 2010, 05:25 PM
Call sign = TOMATOFLAMES
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Seattle, WA
Joined Sep 2008
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Yak 55 Control Throws & DX6I TX settings

I had a lot of trouble finding info on throws and radio settings so I thought I would share throws & settings which I have found to work very well for my bird. I hope this helps someone get in the ball park.
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