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Old Jan 27, 2009, 01:45 PM
Winging it >
leadfeather's Avatar
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trouble Maker
Hey lead,

Did you get any feedback on the plans. I think either way would work fine. It is still nice to have the instruction on the templates, but having them seperated would be easier and require less material for template making.

TM
TM,

If we can keep the instruction right on the parts and not have them cut away when making milling templates that would be best...just not sure if we can do that.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 02:01 PM
Zippy, Strong Like Bull!
Trouble Maker's Avatar
USA, KS, Wichita
Joined Apr 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfeather
TM,

If we can keep the instruction right on the parts and not have them cut away when making milling templates that would be best...just not sure if we can do that.
I agree. I edited my original post on this.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 08:36 PM
More props are better than One
TaSaJaRa's Avatar
United States, AL
Joined Nov 2004
2,175 Posts
In a response to using hot glue on epp.

The only Hot glue I used on my Yak was to tac my servos down. I wanted something I could remove if I had a uncontrolled landing and killed a servo. The rest of my plane was put together using Welders and Gorilla glue. Something than want break loose if I flop the plane on the ground.

I really like Welders because it is flexible, in an epp plane this helps a lot. Being flexible helps keep the plane more crash proof. Using a stiffer glue like hot glue want let the plane flex, so it is more likely to damage the epp. I do use hot glue a good bit, as to tac things while my other glue dries. I have been a big fan of Goop, but now once I have used Welders I like it a bit better on certain things that need to be light.

No matter what type glue you use, just have fun flying the plane you built.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 09:01 PM
Permission to buzz the tower?
ds-fifty's Avatar
Adelaide, South Australia
Joined Nov 2007
97 Posts
Hi all,

I've been flying my Yak now for three days solid (so it seems). I charge the battery and then duck up the street, then come back to charge again! - Love it.

One problem though, the tips of the ailerons are flexing upwards putting pressure on, and tearing at the aileron hinges. As it flies, you can see the flex in the tips of the ailerons outboard from where the counterbalance is. I do far more upright than inverted flight so far, so maybe later that will help.

Is that normal or have I done something wrong? Should I just reinforce the hinge?

thanks
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 09:36 PM
More props are better than One
TaSaJaRa's Avatar
United States, AL
Joined Nov 2004
2,175 Posts
I got to fly my Yak today, all I can say is WOW... I have a New favorite 3D plane... I flew the plane with a 3s 610mAh on the first flight because it was a bit windy. Then once the wind died down I tried a 2s 540mAh. I had a 8x3.8 APC SF.
I can say on 2s I might should use a 9x3.8.
I was using the JustGoFly 2204 motor. It was super quite and had plenty of power.

This Yak makes me look like I can fly 3D a lot better than any other plane I have. I was able to do a knife all the way around the field, which was a first for me. Also the side fuselage sections really make the plane stiffer. It don't do the tail twist like the SloFly 3D plane. Even when I tend to loose it a bit , this plane recovers well. When flying the SloFly I would tend to hit the ground with a flop.

I will try to get a video sometime. But it want be nothing special. I am still learning 3D flight. The Yak just makes things easier to do.

Thanks for a Great Plane.... Leadfeather / Dan...
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 09:46 PM
Permission to buzz the tower?
ds-fifty's Avatar
Adelaide, South Australia
Joined Nov 2007
97 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TaSaJaRa
I was using the JustGoFly 2204 motor. It was super quite and had plenty of power.
I'm using the same motor with a 2s 800mah also on a 8x3.8 APCsf. It's not quite enough power. I've ordered a couple of 480mah 3s from Hobby City, but maybe they're too small. What flight time did you get with your 610mah 3s?
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 09:58 PM
is it flying time?
Jerry Combs's Avatar
Wyandotte Oklahoma
Joined Oct 2004
2,777 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ds-fifty
I'm using the same motor with a 2s 800mah also on a 8x3.8 APCsf. It's not quite enough power. I've ordered a couple of 480mah 3s from Hobby City, but maybe they're too small. What flight time did you get with your 610mah 3s?
Try a GWS 9x4.7 on 2 cells, it will surprise you.

Jerry
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 10:11 PM
Permission to buzz the tower?
ds-fifty's Avatar
Adelaide, South Australia
Joined Nov 2007
97 Posts
Thanks for the tip.

I wonder if there's a thread that explains the differences between E, SF for APC and then GWS DD and EP etc etc. Probably off topic for here.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 10:11 PM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
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Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
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Ditto on what Jerry said. It is the best choice for 2s on the 2204-14 motor.

Ken
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 11:22 PM
Winging it >
leadfeather's Avatar
Joined May 2006
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ds-fifty and Tas, I'm glad you guys are enjoying this plane!

ds-fifty, if your counterbalance is curling up or down chances are your aileron foam is a bit thin or extra floppy. The lightest way to stiffen this is to make a small rib from epp; say 6mm by 6mm cross section; and glue it to the bottom of the center of the counterbalance so that this rib is in line with the airflow. I think the counterbalance curling up is putting extra stress on the hinge and causing the tearing.

I just got home from flying my Yak and I'm finally on my way to doing rolling circles. Many, many crashes to get to this point but the epp takes a beating and keeps on flying with minimal repairs.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 11:40 PM
Permission to buzz the tower?
ds-fifty's Avatar
Adelaide, South Australia
Joined Nov 2007
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Thanks Leadfeather,

So to be clear, the curl is laterally, like the end of a glider wing. The rib you're suggesting will go at 90 deg to the curl. Is this what you're suggesting? That will add the stiffness?

I'll give it a go and see.
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Old Jan 27, 2009, 11:53 PM
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Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ds-fifty
Thanks Leadfeather,

So to be clear, the curl is laterally, like the end of a glider wing. The rib you're suggesting will go at 90 deg to the curl. Is this what you're suggesting? That will add the stiffness?

I'll give it a go and see.
Sorry, I thought the curl you were describing was the other way, curling in the direction of the airflow.

To fix the "polyhedral" flex, I would try putting a bit of carbon in the aileron just behind the hinge line by about 3/4 inch. If you cut a small slit in the bottom of he aileron and push the .040" carbon rod in the slit with a tiny bit of glue it should make a nearly invisible mod that will take care of the curl.
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Old Jan 28, 2009, 07:23 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
10,737 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by leadfeather
Sorry, I thought the curl you were describing was the other way, curling in the direction of the airflow.

To fix the "polyhedral" flex, I would try putting a bit of carbon in the aileron just behind the hinge line by about 3/4 inch. If you cut a small slit in the bottom of he aileron and push the .040" carbon rod in the slit with a tiny bit of glue it should make a nearly invisible mod that will take care of the curl.
Good Idea!

I was experiencing the same thing on one of my builds that has counterbalances on the ailerons.

Picked up my EPP from LHS yesterday and will commence building a Skinny Yak with some of the Ultralight milling features. I don't think I want to mill the fuselage though. Seems like to great a loss of strength. Testing will be the proof though.

Ken
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Old Jan 28, 2009, 08:13 PM
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leadfeather's Avatar
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb
Good Idea!

I was experiencing the same thing on one of my builds that has counterbalances on the ailerons.

Picked up my EPP from LHS yesterday and will commence building a Skinny Yak with some of the Ultralight milling features. I don't think I want to mill the fuselage though. Seems like to great a loss of strength. Testing will be the proof though.

Ken
Ken, good luck with your skinny Yak. With so many guys building and trying different thickness/densities/milling etc. I think we are;as a group; able to optimize and discover the limit is of epp.


Although we spend a lot of time talking about and working on making the Yak lighter, for the guys just starting in 3d, the original, all 1.3# 9mm epp build is still a good choice as it is the toughest and will help you get through the crashes and smashes while climbing the learning curve.
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Old Jan 28, 2009, 08:23 PM
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United States, CA, San Diego
Joined Jul 2002
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=10529

the blog grows day after day I have some great pictures of my yak55
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