What do you mean it wont fly slow? Have you tried flying it around in a harrier? If you have some 3mm depron try tracing out a sheet equivalent to you elevator and glue it on to the existing elevator. Check the ailerons don't allow to much play by flexing them. If they flex a lot and your servo's don't move, its a potential problem. Does the tail look parallel to the wings? Brace it with some carbon rod too. Check there's no accidental mixing too. Tell me, where is the elevator control horn, as in on what side?

Good tip Tom. Thanks Steve for your input too. I think I'll CA it in. If I ever want to get it out it'll be a lot easier.

Is there a rule with extending the wires that connect the ESC to the motor? I'm using the same gauge wire that is on the ESC. Need to add about six inches to get the ESC into the main body of the fuse...

blxpy,

I actually wrapped my motor in a few layers of painters masking tape before CAing it in, it's solid as a rock but means your motor can be removed and used in another plane relatively easily. Maybe it's not necessary, but it preserves the motor a little better - even if only aesthetically.

Cheers

Originally Posted by blxpy

Is there a rule with extending the wires that connect the ESC to the motor? I'm using the same gauge wire that is on the ESC. Need to add about six inches to get the ESC into the main body of the fuse...

6 inches should be fine, I think the limit is mainly on the battery side and limited to 12 inches (could very well be wrong about the length) causes voltage spikes and stuff...

Tom

Thanks for the tips guys!

Have soldered the wires on, and will prolly wrap the motor in something before gluing.

I've given the motor a bit of a test run, and I think she's going to run really hot in there - do all inrunners generate a fair bit of heat? This one's a scorcher!

J, Sure you have the elevator servo connected to the right channel (sorry mate, couldn't resist).

Have you tried to balance it laterally?

Time to give in and buy the Addiction....

Ben,

Steve is correct. I've noticed the fuse of the ASW28 has broken at the repair, even during soft belly landings. Maybe just too brittle at areas of flex.

Clovus

Originally Posted by maiden-crash

What do you mean it wont fly slow? Have you tried flying it around in a harrier? If you have some 3mm depron try tracing out a sheet equivalent to you elevator and glue it on to the existing elevator. Check the ailerons don't allow to much play by flexing them. If they flex a lot and your servo's don't move, its a potential problem. Does the tail look parallel to the wings? Brace it with some carbon rod too. Check there's no accidental mixing too. Tell me, where is the elevator control horn, as in on what side?

MC- What I mean by it wont fly slow is that it stalls worse than a warbird.

When I bring her in slow and try and keep her nose up, it will drop her left wing.

The entire aircraft has play - it is EPP. I think that is the problem.

Cheers
-J

Maybe try putting a little weight on the right wing John.I have found that 3D planes are very critical on lateral balance.
On another note I managed to crash my Addiction without even taking off.... I have been experimenting with using a neck strap but the DX7 doesn't balance with the strap on which I reckon sucks so I have put the battery in, then put the Tx down for some reason and the bloody strap has fallen across the throttle stick and shoved it all the way forward whereapon the plane has shot along the ground for about 5 meters and straight into a chain link fence at a great rate of knots.The damage was quite substantial in the fuse but I have bodgied it all up I think...she is certainly getting a bit dinged up now thats for sure.
So the moral of the story is no more neck straps for me I think.
Cheers,
Bleary.

Some say you never really start enjoying a plane until you crash it Bleary.

J, Ditto on the lateral balance. My GeeBee can bend it tail 160 degrees, flop is what EPP planes do, and bounce.

No plane has it worse than my Extra. It will stall, or bite you in the back any chance it gets. I tend to literally warm up flying it, because its so on edge and has to be handled so carefully. It will stall readily, and in high alfa it tends to want to be in any position except for where its meant to be. It will drop a wing if you blink wrong. But Ive learnt to control it by getting to know ho it behaves. i think you need to get to know the plane. What I don't know is why you went with it when the other EPP models HC sells are proven good fliers. Risky business being the first. Also, try and compensate in right aileron whenever you bring her in slow and try and get her nose up. Some planes don't transition that easily. Other wise, I don't know what's going. on.

Originally Posted by The_Mongrel

Thanks guys.

MC - This thing will not fly slow. In a straight line she will fly perfect - hands off.

I was not pulling hard on the elevator as if I did it would flip over on her left side. I tried to pulling up gently and she ends up in a KE like position.

I tried moving the cog forward and backwards... not much of a difference.

I just think you are right MC - it is an EPP bird, and probably not a good one at that.

Cheers
-J

Hey Mongrel
The elevator half isn't flexing in the middle where it is thin is it ?
This would move 1 side more than the other acting like an aileron

Bert

Bleary, that's cruddy luck mate. My neck strap is a little short (being a lanyard) so I normally clip it off the radio until i'm ready to go, then clip it back on. I guess there are still dangers in doing that too though.

blxpy, the inrunners i've used run sh*t hot on the ground but note that when running these motors up on the ground there's very little airflow hitting them. Temperatures will be lower when in the air, I wouldn't worry about it. Are you using a Himark motor or one of ExtremeRC's inrunners?

cheers

Just a word of warning with neck straps, they're good, I've used one for the past 10 years, BUT, when dealing with stuff like plugging battery packs in or starting IC engines, get into the habit of tucking the strap down your shirt, as you don't want the little dangly end getting caught in a prop, and possibly dragging you into the prop arc on the aircraft climbing the strap up to your throat.

Also, Andrews right, don't leave the strap on the transmitter, leave it on your neck and clip/unclip the tx for the most part.

I guarantee you tho, that you'll drive home with the tx strap still around your neck, but hey, it beats leaving it at the field!

John, on your build thread it has the plane drooping about 15 to 20 degrees to the left, and you knew about it already. Thats obviously the culprit?

Originally Posted by Andrew86

blxpy, the inrunners i've used run sh*t hot on the ground but note that when running these motors up on the ground there's very little airflow hitting them. Temperatures will be lower when in the air, I wouldn't worry about it. Are you using a Himark motor or one of ExtremeRC's inrunners? cheers

That's good to hear... I didn't think about the moving through the air factor. I could always increase the ventilation too I guess.

I've got neither of those mate - I'm dropping in one of these little bad boys. Mong had one sitting around he didn't need and let me have it at a great price. Not the highest quality motor, but it should be enough to give me the performance I'm after I hope.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5654

I did of course grind the heat sink off - that'll help it stay cool for sure

Yeah I've hat inrunners that get STONKING HOT...

something to consider, if you have problems like me (not mental ones like me) is that if you're running a big spinner, you could be blanketing the motor and it will fry itself quite successfully. My remedy for this was to open up the prop holes in the spinner a little (especially between the prop and backplate) and drill a series of holes through the backplate between the outer edge and thrust washer bit, this helps pump some air over the motor to keep things cool.