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Old Feb 26, 2003, 05:54 PM
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R Hudson's Avatar
Waukesha, WI
Joined Dec 2002
560 Posts
Kyosho Blade Runner EP

Has anybody had experience with this model? If so, what is it like? Ex: speed, handling, upgrades, etc. I am just starting out and am considering this one. Any info. would be appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Feb 26, 2003, 06:08 PM
Maker of Sawdust
forresterace's Avatar
Richmond Hill, Ontario
Joined Mar 2001
86 Posts
BladeRunner

Hi R Hudson
While I don't have any direct experience with the Kyosho BladeRunner, I do remember reading a lot of postings about difficulties in getting the boat to run quickly and handle well doing it. I think that Andrew of Fastelectrics.com has more information on it. He checks in here regularly so I would expect him to be along soon.
From memory, however, I doubt that I would recommend it as a first boat. There are lots of far better boats available for novices to learn on and be able modify as their knowledge grows.

Doug Forrester
Forresterace Designs
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Old Feb 27, 2003, 09:35 PM
Registered User
Lemon Tree Passage NSW Australia
Joined Sep 2001
378 Posts
If you must have the bladerunner buy only the hull and:

1 build it with two inboard motors (480 7.2's) with counterrotating props X430's 7 CP1300 cells to each motor
or
2. build it with two inboard motors (10-12/3 05 modfied) with counterrotating props X430's and 6 cells each motor
or
3. build it with two outboards with counterrotating props and 6 cells each motor
or
4. build it with one inboard motor 8-18 cells and extend the sponson depth and extend them foward to build up running surface 3/4" wide and use a 8-16 cell setup

the hardware should be orthodox

IMO the execution this kit is appalling. The boat has a narrow hull which demand coutnerrotating props for stability yet kyosho put on a large prop guaranteed to create torque roll and that is what it does. The steerable outdrive makes this problem worse

In addition the gearbox and outdrive have too much friction. The straight shaft supplied makes an excellent component in an inboard power system.
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Old Feb 27, 2003, 10:48 PM
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R Hudson's Avatar
Waukesha, WI
Joined Dec 2002
560 Posts
Blade Runner

Thanks for the information. This sounds like one to avoid, at least for now. Many people that have them have told me to avoid them and that theirs are just gathering dust. I'm just starting out and have a previously-owned Kyosho Viper on the way I bought on Ebay. I was just looking ahead a bit. The Blade Runner looks very cool, but I guess looks definitely don't help it much. I think that I will just modify my Viper for now, then maybe a Graupner Systems Catamaran somewhere down the road. By the way, thanks to Andrew for the info on the Viper.
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Old Jul 29, 2005, 12:50 AM
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Joined Jul 2005
63 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Gilchrist
If you must have the bladerunner buy only the hull and:

1 build it with two inboard motors (480 7.2's) with counterrotating props X430's 7 CP1300 cells to each motor
or
2. build it with two inboard motors (10-12/3 05 modfied) with counterrotating props X430's and 6 cells each motor
or
3. build it with two outboards with counterrotating props and 6 cells each motor
or
4. build it with one inboard motor 8-18 cells and extend the sponson depth and extend them foward to build up running surface 3/4" wide and use a 8-16 cell setup

the hardware should be orthodox

IMO the execution this kit is appalling. The boat has a narrow hull which demand coutnerrotating props for stability yet kyosho put on a large prop guaranteed to create torque roll and that is what it does. The steerable outdrive makes this problem worse

In addition the gearbox and outdrive have too much friction. The straight shaft supplied makes an excellent component in an inboard power system.
I may be all too new to this, but 1. how do you mount 2 inboard motors, and 2. how do you mount 2 out boards? just screw them on to a home made transom? I've had a really hard time getting good, or ANY advice from my local hobby shops on how to make my boad move. I have scowered the forums and even then it's kinda hard to pin point what i need to know. What I did learn is the Novak 4300SS brushless seems to be a good power plant, but i am still uncertain to what is the best motor and speed control for speed, and i'm not out to break an speed records, i just want a decent increase from stock. Also i am uncertial to what prop to run. Right now i have a brass Prather about the same size as the stock one(actually it's off my Nitro Viper i broke the stock one). I know the gearbox is porblems, so is it better to run with or with out it. Thanks and any info is appreciated. Oh and i keep reading about the flex shaft and to use it. do i use it in place of the U joint?
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Last edited by blader; Jul 29, 2005 at 01:11 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2005, 07:33 AM
Useful Idiot
Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
3,545 Posts
For the outboard installation' you'd definately need to beef up the transom and it's advisable for inboards as well, as the prop torque has to be absorbed by the hull. Usually a 1/8" -3/16" ply doubler glassed in will be ok, but take care with polyester resin on ABS hulls. The combination of heat build-up during curing and the solvent effect of the resin can cause problems. Epoxy is safer.
The 480's Andy mentioned will probably work best with a Graupner 29 mm carbon fibre, the hottish car motors on a 31 mm or the metal Octura x430's that Andy mentioned, though you'll need to sharpen and balance them to make them worth the extra cash and the 700 motor about 40/42 mm. Direct drive is generally simpler and forget the U joint. Use an Octura flexhex or a solid coupling.
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Old Jul 29, 2005, 08:43 AM
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Joined Jul 2005
63 Posts
thanks soo much for the info, now what kind of speed controler would I need to run say that single 700 motor, or would the supplied micro switch do it. also what kind of cell set up would be ideal for this power plant. Also when you say glass the hull does that mean fiber glass(like layering fiberglass to thicken the transom), i know stupid question Thanks again
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Last edited by blader; Jul 29, 2005 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2005, 09:57 AM
Useful Idiot
Asturias, Spain
Joined Mar 2001
3,545 Posts
Sorry, It should have been fibre glass. The cells almost everyone uses are the sub C size cells, either NiCad or NiMh suitable for high current applications, e.g. the Sanyo GP3300's. The micro-switch will probably work with any of the combinations but an electronic speed control (esc) provides proportional control rather than the on/off of the microswitch. Browse http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/ there's a whole lot of good information.
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Old Jul 29, 2005, 10:38 AM
Vtol Builder
Lewist's Avatar
High Wycombe, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Jul 2004
997 Posts
I have one of these.

In stock form its slow... the gear box is not great, it handles ok but looses a lot of speed in the turns (if i remember)

I acutally converted mine to nitro with limited success.
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Old Oct 22, 2005, 04:08 AM
TOPDOG
Taiwan
Joined Oct 2003
817 Posts
I was wondering can you se the HYDROSPEED FLEX 700

http://www.funrcboats.com/ProductInf...oductid=GR1161

in the Blade runner
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