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Old Dec 19, 2008, 09:20 PM
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Well, I assumed PVA was bad considering the amount of warning at the bottle compared to the "new" one.

Have attached the pictures. By the way didn't know my Linux computer would be able to handle the picture upload. Nice, have no more excuses for posting pictures during the weekend.
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Old Dec 19, 2008, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glauco
Well, I assumed PVA was bad considering the amount of warning at the bottle compared to the "new" one.

Have attached the pictures. By the way didn't know my Linux computer would be able to handle the picture upload. Nice, have no more excuses for posting pictures during the weekend.

Glauco,
The main difference is that the new (French label) formulation doesn't have the alchohols (VOC) that the US formulation does. The volatiles are the primary reason for the longer warning, not the PVA component. The presence of these (even though they are swimming in water) are why this formulation is considered hazardous, flammable, etc. The alcohols also reduce the water content and speed drying. Have you noticed that the new, improved formula takes longer after application before you can handle and use the mold? I would bet you do.

You can thank the US EPA for the wealth of useful "information" that is on the US formulation. I guess they think this level of disclosure will make you feel safer when using the product. At least it absolves the manufacturer if someone knowingly or unknowingly hurts themselves misusing the product.

JT
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Old Dec 19, 2008, 10:18 PM
AKA - The "Flywheel"
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Hey Glauco, How long until you start taking orders

Steve
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Old Dec 19, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Thanks for the info JT, glad to see you not yelling at me at least once

Steve, I heard you have your own Supra now, no need for another one. Also point me a SOAR South sider without one.
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Old Dec 20, 2008, 07:50 PM
AKA - The "Flywheel"
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Shhhhh my wife might read the groups.... she doesn't know what that blue and yellow crate is yet LOL
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Old Dec 20, 2008, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glauco
Steve, I heard you have your own Supra now, no need for another one. Also point me a SOAR South sider without one.
Jeffrey and I don't have one. We have four!

That was the upside of Jeffrey flying F3J in Turkey. The downside was paying for all of them.

Now if only I could build as well as you, I'd have a bagged one instead.
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Old Dec 21, 2008, 01:14 PM
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I just caught up with the build thread , and same here quite inspiring , waiting for further progress .
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Old Dec 23, 2008, 05:09 PM
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More pictures.

Built these Supras by finishing the center panel first and then working at the tips. I believe a better way would be building the whole spar first since it would be easier to align all. Will do that at the new planes.

The bond of the joiner box to the spar caps is very important but I had to align it first. So with a little CA I glued the joiner to the top cap. Then I could use MGS epoxy to glue the joiner to the bottom cap. After it was set I could brake the top cap free and then glue the top with epoxy too. Time consuming but it worked. Will see if I can skip this by building the whole spar at once.
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Old Dec 24, 2008, 12:57 AM
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"...I used a laser level to shoot a straight line from one tip to another. .."
============
Whereas if you built the whole spar before making the center panel, you could lay the thing out flat on its side (i.e. leading edge down) on a flat surface, line up everything as you wanted it, and then block it in place. That would have to be easier I'd think.
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Old Dec 24, 2008, 09:21 AM
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I agree with you Tony. Main reason for building the whole center panel first was just to see it done.

The center spar has to be build at the jig because of the dihedral but joining it to the tips should be much easier at a flat surface like you said.

By the way I hope to start you super Supra stab "soon"
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Old Dec 24, 2008, 11:12 AM
Sean Worthington
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spar alignment

I had approached the problem in a different way.

I noticed on the plans that the trailing edge of the spar was straight. On my angled building board I put extruded aluminum angles (from the local hardware store) using a straight edge when the angle was set to flat. I then placed the spar TEs with the joiner blockes against this straight edge for alignment and the board jacked up to the proper angle. At this point I could confirm the proper angle for the joiners and that the TE of the spar (with joiners in place) was straight. I then glued the leading and trailing portions of the cores back onto the spars. It worked very well and was pretty easy.

Just my .02,

Sean
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Old Dec 24, 2008, 11:30 AM
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Do you have a building board for the whole wing or just for the center panel?

I like your method but I don't really understand how it would work for the tip spar unless you have an angled building board for the tips. Or maybe you used the center panel board as a jig for the tip since they have the same angle.
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Old Dec 24, 2008, 05:05 PM
Sean Worthington
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building board

Yes, I used it for CS and the CS->tips angles as well.

My building board for the Supra is a hinged board that is long enough for each panel (side of the CS or tip) on each side with three hinges in the center. I chock it up on either side to get the angle I want. I used it to laminate the doublers on the center panel spar caps prior to building the center section. I also used in like I described in the last post.

It is bascially heavy particle board that is braced by the extruded aluminum angle that I mentioned. Aside from the benefit of the aluminum angle I mention for the spar alignment, it helps each side of the board resist bending. 3 hinges at the center hinge line keeps the angles true and I check all the angles (plus any twist along the span) with a digital level prior to using it.

I would take a picture of it but I packed it away while I finish up an EZBD.

Does that help?,

Sean
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Old Dec 30, 2008, 12:25 AM
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Interesting tidbit for perfectionists. Mark specified various angles to cut the hinge lines at. Note the angles are not the same if cut from the top vs. the bottom side of the core.
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