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Old Dec 08, 2008, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Glauco
Hi JT, I kind of noticed at many Nats now that patience is not something usually associated to your name
Thats why I'm on the flightline, and not somewhere else, psychic (or some would say psycho) fit.
JT
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 04:49 PM
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Starting now with some pictures of the wing. The camera I used wasn't a good one so the pictures were not as clear as the stab ones. Also I don't have many details but will try to add more during the live construction.

You do need a jig to build the center panel with the required 5 degrees. I chose to build mine out of MDF and it is a very important step if you want a good flying plane. You can't have bends or twists specially once it is all in the bag with lots of weight at the top.

The full size plans also help a lot. Mine were plotted in vellum paper. Here is an explanation from a website about vellum if you don't know how to make it.

"It was prepared from untanned calfskin by drying it under tension after it was cleaned, dehaired, and scraped. After it was stretched, it was polished with pumice - an abrasive - and talc - a filler - as a final preparation for writing"

Take this to Kinkos and explain them how you want it. Just kidding

As I said it was actually plotted using the DXF file.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 05:10 PM
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Glauco,

Thanks again for sharing your build! I have the MDF for the wing jig and I'm having heat installed in the garage on Monday. I ended up buying the 1 oz Kevlar and I will build mine to spec. Now it's off to Kinkos to see if they can enlarge the plans.

Keep up the great work,

Jim
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 01:19 PM
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A few more pictures.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 01:39 PM
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Have received the cores for the new planes today. Waiting on ACP to be able to start the live thread.

For now even more pictures, enjoy.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 02:31 PM
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Wow, Glaugo. There are many of us that are following this thread with nothing to contibute, other than our enthusiasm for you sharing your techniques wih us.

thank you,
David
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 02:57 PM
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Wow. Nice play-by-play.

Regarding the servo-wire channel...
There's always a danger that the vacuum load will push down on the top and bottom foam bridges over the channel and leave dents in the surface. For this reason you want to:
1) Make the channel as small as possible, in height and in width.
2) Center it vertically
3) Glue the two narrow foam faces solidly to the spar, so that the glue joint can take a bending moment and help support the foam better.

The larger the channel, the more important 2) and 3) become.

The main reason I make the channel rounded on the back edge is to give it a little more crush resistance. I also used a relatively narrow channel for most of the center span where there is only one servo lead, and a wider channel for two wires only out to the flap servo.
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 03:23 PM
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What djklein21 said !!
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 04:47 PM
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Thanks for all the wows
I understand it is more like a blog now since I'm just posting pictures taken months ago of a plane that is already flying.

Still have a few more to post before moving to the live thread once I get enough materials to start it.Then it will become slower and more detailed.

The whole idea is to encourage people to build their own planes using the fantastic Supra design and plans available to everyone. It is not a first composite project but I want to show it is not impossible either. You can build at your own pace if time is a problem. Must point it is not a cheap project so if you want to save some money go and support the fine companies that sell our shinny toys. But I want to see the grin on your face once you win a contest with a plane you build yourself. Priceless
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 05:20 PM
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Glauco,

Thanks again for all the play-by-play photos. I would have never considered building my own Supra if it hadnít been for people like you, tonyestep, nuevo, and Dr. Drela sharing their building experiences. Itís truly inspiring.

Iíve hit one road block; I canít find a local shop that can print a full size wing plan. Does anyone know of an online printing service that can print this large?

Iíll start building all my jigs next week and Iíll bag some test cores (itís my first time and Iím working with all new equipment) just to make sure I have the process down.

Thanks,

Jim
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 05:43 PM
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Glauco/Mark,

I'm having a tough time deciphering the spar cap thickness drawings on the website. I'm looking for thickness dims at various locations along the entire span. I see the .084 thickness at the root, and .020 at the end of the center panel... is this correct? Does the thickness reduce linearly? (Is that a word?) And how are they made? I'm sure there is an explanation somewhere that I haven't been able to find... help...

Thanks

D

Mark - great design! Glauco... wow!!!
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Old Dec 11, 2008, 06:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryl Perkins
I'm having a tough time deciphering the spar cap thickness drawings on the website. I'm looking for thickness dims at various locations along the entire span. I see the .084 thickness at the root, and .020 at the end of the center panel... is this correct? Does the thickness reduce linearly? (Is that a word?) And how are they made? I'm sure there is an explanation somewhere that I haven't been able to find... help...
The sparcaps I got from ACP decreased from 0.084 to 0.014 in five steps of 0.014" each. A prepreg layer is normally 0.007", so each step drops 2 plies.
The wing drawing shows the sparcap in a front view (thickness greatly exaggerated), where you can see the steps.
It would be better if the plies dropped off one at a time rather than two at a time, but that would involve more layup labor. Doesn't really matter on a stiffness-sized spar. The outer sparcaps do drop off one ply at a time.
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Old Dec 12, 2008, 01:48 PM
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Continuing with the pictures.
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Old Dec 12, 2008, 02:03 PM
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Wow, this sure is dťjŗ vu.

Like you, I installed my servo blocks before bagging. In hindsight, I think it would have been easier if I had done it afterwards. I would have better adhesion between the blocks and the skin, instead of spackle.

I'm impressed with your work, and enjoying watching the story unfold.
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Old Dec 12, 2008, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nuevo
Like you, I installed my servo blocks before bagging. In hindsight, I think it would have been easier if I had done it afterwards. I would have better adhesion between the blocks and the skin, instead of spackle.
Or you can use microballoons/epoxy on the servo mounting blocks -- it's much stronger than light spackle.

Another solution is to cut out the foam for the servo blocks, and put it back for the bagging. I always do this for the RDS pockets. Hogging out the "free" foam bits is very easy, with no fiddly internal measuring and fitting.
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