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Old Jan 08, 2009, 05:05 AM
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In preparation for the tip lamination process, I cut the balsa parts and put them in water. I found a big 4.5 liter bottle that can take in all the strips - I will keep them in until the weekend.

What took time was emptying the bottle - I am quite dizzy No, actually my brother had given the bottle to me empty, and it had been lying around the house. I did not know what to do with it up to now.

For smaller models a standard whisky bottle works, but the rudder of this one has long lamination pieces.

Since balsa tries to swim, there is an autoeject function until the wood gets completely waterlogged.

Bulent
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Old Jan 08, 2009, 08:18 AM
Two left thumbs
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That's a better idea than my use of a plastic mailing tube, since there's less area at the top to try and get all the balsa strips to stay under water.

Geoff
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Old Jan 08, 2009, 09:20 AM
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I put in some sponge rubber to keep them submerged, which was enough - the dark gray stuff. With a clear container, bubbles are easy to follow as well - I move, shake or hit the bottle periodically, which releases air bubbles almost always until they get waterlogged.

I could put the whole unit on a radiator for faster action, but I guess they are already soft enough. I probably can laminate the rudder part tonight, its form is almost ready. Others were rough cut from insulation foam and have to get shaped.

In fact the wing tips could be laminated dry, being circular and of large radius, but I still submerged the parts. I beleive less glue is used with wet lamination pieces.

Bulent
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Old Jan 08, 2009, 03:44 PM
I think I can glue that..
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Gee bulent... with the cold temps in your apartment I would think you could come up with a better use for your Scotch!
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Old Jan 09, 2009, 05:00 AM
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You are right, I should have used the bottle contents better - well, I have a few unopened bottles suitable for smaller models, come to think of it..

Rudder laminations went together quite easily, thanks to what I had seen from Milhafre's thread. We are always learning, I guess. I do not have much experience on laminating; what I tried before was more complex and difficult, and probably the end result would not be better.

I wanted to work on the nose also, but my work was interrupted due to blackouts - which are more frequent here, once every few days - or even daily. There was a one hour long interruption in power last night, as well as a shorter one.


Bulent
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Old Jan 12, 2009, 05:10 AM
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I think I made some progress on the weekend, although this would not register at all on Tritle or Maltone scales

I assembled the nose unit, cut strips for the tails, continued the lamination process, cut new parts. I had to modify the design, unfortunately. I hoped that - but was skeptical if - the lower strips could be bent enough to get glued to the adjacent former directly. One of them broke without trying much - so I prepared a light ply part to take place in between. It gets glued to the strip with a long joint, so probably this will be strong enough at this high stress point. The whole nose weight plus motor, battery, etc. will be acting on this joint; however, there will be 2 mm balsa planking on the outside as well.

The balsa parts are for holding the planking in place - between the front of the door openings and the preceeing former. They will be glued on the former as shown in one photo.

The wing tip lamination required stronger pins, so I used nails. I laminated a 22 mm strip for both tips at once, which would not stay in place using pins. The pink former is for the horizontal tail, but it is for two parts to be cut apart - a straight TE strip will be glued in between. I am not sure this was a wise decision, but harder balsa can be used in between. My workshop is not large, so I need more durable parts - I usually damage the parts before covering, by hitting them around

Two photos show the nose unit with the new ply piece inserted but not glued. I will try to use my laser crossline projector to get the nose straight, before gluing all in place. Probably I will get the motor bulkhead glued after the nose is in place. The laser should be helpful in geting the bulkhead vertical and with zero side thrust - although I do not know exactly how yet. I may have to draw a horizontal line on the fuselage side, and make the motor bulkhead perpendicular to this using the laser crossline.

Bulent
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 03:52 AM
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To take a short leave from balsa cutting, related allergies, etc., I worked on the motors, reversing the shaft of one and soldering 2 mm gold connectors. One of the photos is a before and after shot showing the stock motor and the modified one.

I used a laser guide rail from a CD ROM drive for the shaft. I have lots of these; damaged drives from our company are sent to me for stripping down. I get lots of brushless motors from those, but most have 18 mm stators.

The shaft hole was quite tight, so maybe the setscrew is not very much necessary. I put in a nylon part that had a tight fit on the shaft to hold it in place at the front. There will be no force on this, so that should be sufficient. In the case of a crash, the shaft can slide backwards.

Laminated parts turned out quite well.. Light and strong..

Bulent
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 05:54 AM
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Hi Bulent,
I have been following along quietly since you started - a lovely build of an aeroplane with real character. The Scarab engined version on your GA reminded me of a 1930's picture that I'd seen of a distant Canadian floatplane, which, with help from the people here, turned out to be a Norseman. Thanks for your thread and the lovely workmanship!
Paul W.
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Old Jan 15, 2009, 06:45 AM
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Thanks for your good words, Paul.

I wish the construction could proceed faster.. I have limited time.. Frequent design changes slow the progress down, as well.

Bulent
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 05:22 AM
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I glued the nose on, which I beleive was the most tricky part of the fuselage. I trued it up with a laser. The motor bulkhead is not in yet. A sequence of photos show the procedure. The fuselage is up to 125 grams now, including motor bulkhead, not very light. It looks stronger than necessary as well; that's where design experience comes in, I guess..

I can not think of a good way of holding the battery in place and making it repositionable, with 3 different battery alternatives, 2s 1300 - 3s 2000 Lipo and 2s 2000 A123. I made the hole large to be able to use A123 batteries - as shown in the last photo. I can not continue with planking of the fuselage until I find a solution to this. The battery will go in from the fuselage side, between the formers. Sides of the nose will have removable panels. Maybe velcro tape should be used, but probably that should be on the side of the battery and not the top or bottom - there is not much clearance there.

I can not find much time for myself lately, my mother's illness is getting worse.

Bulent
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 05:38 AM
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Here are some photos of the laser truing setup. I marked the centers on the two bulkheads, and sanded parts until the beam lined up the center of the top balsa part and the bulkhead centers. I raised the laser so its line would show on all required areas.

Laser projector was bought locally, it projects perpendicular lines, the beam can be rotated, as can be seen.. It is proving very useful. The rear end of the fuselage will be trued up similarly, and I will use the laser for fixing the motor bulkhead correctly.

Bulent
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 08:39 AM
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Excellent work, Bulent! Clever use of the laser.

Geoff
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 09:16 AM
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Thanks.. I had seen thoughts about laser alignment in an older MAN issue..

I wish I could work faster, at this rate probably I can not fly the model this summer

I am trying to change from aileron belcrank system to flexible pushrods, but calculations show this requires a servo arm having a hole at only 3.5 mm radius, which is suitable for ez coupler type cable holders. Probably difficult to find/make and it has to repositionable also, for differential throw. If I can do this, the wing will be simpler and the pushrod will be easily replacable.

Bulent
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 10:06 AM
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Bulent, I am so fascinated with your build and building techniques. Please take your time as necessary and don't try to rush it. My sympathies to your mother and I hope things go well for her.

Tony
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Thanks Tony,

Actually working on the model is a sort of therapy for me, keeps my mind off disturbing thoughts and makes me glad I am able to shape and develop something the way I want.. I get bored flying the model after 10-15 flights, and I enjoy the building phase much more..

Thanks for your good wishes, but unfortunately my mother's condition seems terminal.. She has been under intensive care for 6 weeks or more, artificial respiration and all, and now her kidneys stopped functioning. She has had Alzheimer's disease and dementia since years. All this is too sad for me, because I slept at her house until a few years ago and used my house as a workshop only. She was alone after my dad passed away, and I could not leave her like that, being single myself.. She always liked my work, so I am losing one of my fans, as well as a lovely mother.

Bulent
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