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Old Sep 23, 2010, 08:13 AM
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Thanks Paul,

Yes, I can assemble it completely now - I will try to do that on the weekend.. It won't fit on my workshop tables, so I will find another room.

Bulent
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 08:14 AM
Two left thumbs
Muncie, IN
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I second Paul's suggestion - let's see it all in one piece!

Geoff
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 08:17 AM
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OK. I accept the challenge

Bulent
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Old Sep 23, 2010, 10:48 PM
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Hi Guys..
i know you are doing a ranger powered version but this is sooo nice I wanted to post a couple of pics of a local fairchild..
Some motivation
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 03:25 AM
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That is good looking, mine will have the same painting scheme with white trim instead of green and yellow background.

Photos of my framework following..

Bulent
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 03:38 AM
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Here are the photos. The light was not enough, so I had to edit the photos a bit. I still can not completely control the white balance of the camera under different light spectrums.

I drilled two holes in the control arms of the tail wheel, while it was outside, but that was only a 30 mg. gain

The LG shock covers need more work.. The upper parts are not easy to center and keep in place, with only friction keeping them.. they have to slide down for assembly.

Bulent
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 03:45 AM
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Here are some photos taken at a closer distance..

Bulent
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 05:07 AM
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Here are two photos of the model canoe I mentioned earlier, the one built with bone glue. It is a scaled down form of a full scale plan published in Popular Mechanics. I had built it as described - at a smaller scale.

I had to boil up glue once a day and glue in two strips of bass, one on each side. This was 40-45 years ago, when I was in high school. White glue or similar were not available here then. The model could be in better shape if I had treated it more kindly I once tried it in water and that loosened some glue joints, obviously the lacquer was not thick enough. Then I used it as a small parts organiser on my workbench, for decades. The ugly stains show the tratment it received It can still be sanded to perfect shape and refinished - it is laminated from bass with enough thickness.

The seats were 'woven', or whatever that process is called, from strips of a harder wood.

Bulent
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 10:45 AM
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Bulent, the Fairchild is looking great! Those assembled shots must help even a little bit to keep you going, yes?

Pa built a canoe from plans in an old Popular Mechanics (I think...) some years ago, but it was a canvas covered one, called the "Little Chief," or something like that. Instead of canvas, Pa used aircraft fabric (Ceconite or Stits Polyfiber, I can't remember) and dope! It's still in the folks' back yard, a bit worse for the years, though.

James
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 11:31 AM
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Thanks James,

Yes, the photos help There is no stopping after this.. I hope the weather cooperates so I can maiden it before winter - so far it seems to be cooperating. I have a dilemma - I can not decide if I should go fly the Stinson for more stick time, or stay and work on the Fairchild so it gets finished Probably the latter is more logical, or I will wonder how it will fly - during the whole winter..

That fabric canoe must have been very light, perfect for carrying on one's back..

Bulent
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Old Sep 24, 2010, 07:54 PM
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Really elegant!!! All the blood, sweat, and tears is about to pay off!

Geoff
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 04:08 AM
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Thanks Geoff,

It is really coming to covering, if not to an end.

I glassed the whole nose, glued the block on top of the instrument panel after tissue covering, and tissue covered the cabin front area around that. I applied the light glass cloth after one coat clear and one coat talcum+clear lacquer, sanding after coats. After the cloth I applied one clear and two coats clear+talcum lacquer. The weight gain was around 7.5 grams, but sanding and drying out will reduce 0.5 grams of that. I also lacquered the borders of the area to get the silk cloth. The added weight includes the balsa block, which I forgot to weigh, and the tissue covering in the cabin front. I also lacquered the doors.

I prepared a template for the front windshield, but the plastic for that I do not have yet. I may have to buy PVC sheet and try that, no acetate is easily available.

I had to apply balsa sheet to the area above the LG plug-in hole, because there was nowhere the cloth would stick to. I am looking over the model with the eye of a cloth coverer now Some additions are needed at the wing root as well. I also noticed two of the top stringers are deformed, so the cloth would not touch them; I have to solve that.

Other photos show how I supported the stringers at the fuselage bottom, by blocking them up and adding spacer pieces from balsa. I hope none of these break during later life, it would require extensive repairs, and more silk, which I do not have. I found some silk in England, maybe I can buy from there.

On Sunday I could not work much due to headaches, I only applied one coat of the above lacquers. Today I went and bought 2 liters of thinner, whick can knock me out for weeks I am looking for 3M fine line masking tape, but no success yet..

I also added a tail light holder from balsa, and cut down a 5mm LED to glue to the end of that. This had to be done before covering the rudder. I am also trying to find a way of attaching holders for the scale steps below the doors, which also have to be applied before covering.

Bulent
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 10:03 AM
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I just found out that the tail light has to be colorless.. I will try to find some other part or will cut out a transparent LED. An empty part would be lighter, that LED section is 80 mgrams.

Bulent
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 12:29 PM
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Hi Bulent,
Just catching up with your 'whole airframe' pictures - what a beauty! I do like that canoe as well - a man of many talents How did you assemble the hull Bulent, given the absence of ribs?
Paul W.
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Old Sep 27, 2010, 03:28 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
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Bulent - you are certainly keeping alive the true skills of 'scratch-building' - glue, fabric etc. Very good to see. I was interested in reading your preperation of the nose areas - glass, tissue etc - I'll steal some ideas

Pat
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