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Old Mar 23, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Does anyone know if I can use Midwest clear PVC sheet for the windshield? I can buy this from England - or is it better to use polyester or polycarbonate? I can not buy thin sheets of these, however.

Bulent
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Old Mar 23, 2009, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmutlugil
KP,

There is nothing to laugh at, don't be shy. It seems good, but maybe it could be done with one magnet and the other side a mechanical fixing (like a dowel), that might be lighter. I guess, from the way you mounted the rear magnet, it might be better to use a dowel there, but you decide.. I thought maybe the magnets would not hold well under shearing forces (I mean sideways motion).

Bulent
Bulent,

Thank you for replying. I definitely see your point with the dowel. This would be much more effective in holding the back in place. I'm not sure if you could see from the angle of the picture that I took, but I added two pieces of wood that the slanted back could sit in. Do you think that this was a good idea(if I had know about the dowel setup at the time, I would have used it). Let me ask this question, though: How exactly would the dowel setup look(I think that I have the general picture, but do need clarifying)? I am open to anyone's response here. Also, if there are any other commonly used setups, I would love to gain knowledge about them.

Thanks again,
KP
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Old Mar 24, 2009, 06:59 AM
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Installing a dowel is very easy. Drill a hole at the size of the dowel through both bulkheads (the removable and the fixed one) and glue the dowel to the removable one with epoxy. 1/16" or 3/32" dowels could be used (hard balsa or hardwood) or smaller diameter carbon rod. Your magnet is a bit close to the stringer, so it would be wise to put the dowel below that, but don't go too low or installation might be difficult.

I can not exactly understand how the slanted parts are acting, they must be increasing strength, however.

Bulent
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 08:02 AM
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I have installed the brass hinge tube and leading edge of the rudder, shaped it, then started cutting the slots where the hinge parts go in, then ran into some trouble and had to perform surgery. The tube was not long enough and not glued well to the balsa, so the short tube remaining at the end moved and distorted the balsa around it so it had to be replaced. I put in a new tube section that was longer and glued it well to the balsa. One photo shows this section before it is covered with balsa. The other is the lower slot that went well.

I have extended the tube for the elevators in the design, and will make sure it is glued well. The tube tends to shift in the balsa, if not glued well. After the hinge slots are cut, the tube pieces get shorter and they shift more easily.

Bulent
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 08:29 AM
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Having had enough balsa dust in my lungs and enough balsa shaping for some time, I had to revert to some machining to get a system reset

I machined the bearing tube for the tail wheel, the tail wheel shaft, and the control horns for the elevator and the tail wheel. The tail wheel shaft will be threaded M2 at the end where it fits the tail wheel, and the horn will be soldered at the top, so I had to use brass (or steel) for the shaft. I drilled a 1 mm hole in a 2 mm brass rod up to a certain depth; that reduced the weight from 0.9 to 0.7 grams. The horn is 0.2 grams, from a metal I can not identify - cut from an electrical contact. Elevator horn is from the same metal but thicker, it is 0.3 grams. The aluminum bearing tube is 0.4 grams.

I drilled so many holes on parts of this model, that I am afraid I will unconsciously start drilling holes on items around the house, to lighten them

Bulent
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 09:52 AM
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Superb work, Bulent!!!

Geoff
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Old Mar 27, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Thanks..

I hope I will have more to show on Monday..

Bulent
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Old Mar 29, 2009, 12:32 PM
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I found a website, with pictures of one man's restored Fairchild 24 that made me decide to convert my old Berkeley 36" w/s kit to electric R/C. Take a look at his photos:

http://www.fairchild24.com/
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Old Mar 30, 2009, 06:05 AM
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Yes, I know that site, very good.. Thanks..

I worked on some parts for elevator hinging. I had to build a narrow pushrod end for the elevator horn, because this rides between the fuselage longerons and there is not much space there. I found a small (1.3 mm) screw and two square nuts for it, I soldered brass strips to these nuts and on the other end soldered a 1mm steel pin which goes through the horn. Soldered, because there is no way of removing this. The screw will be attached to a pushrod, and by turning the pushrod there will be 3 mm of length adjustment range. I may use a 3 mm carbon tube for the pushrod (3 grams per 50 cm). The inspection panels at the tail end will permit attachment and removal of the pushrod - I hope.

I cut some FR4 bearing parts for the 1.5 mm steel elevator joiner rod. On the balsa structure, I had to put in some balsa blocks related with the hinges and the joiner rod end. I also had to glue 2 mm strips over the laminated balsa corner at the inner end of the elevator, to match the elevator spar thickness.

The rudder hinge was assembled and it is working very well. I also put in the control horn, but not glued yet. The horn has a center hole through which the joiner pin goes through, that is just for easily positioning the horn, it will not be removable. The photo shows a spare horn, but the holes are not very visible due to the high quality photo

It looks like I can not attach the vertical tail to the fuselage now, the horizontail has to go in first - just due to length of the control horn.

Bulent
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Old Mar 30, 2009, 06:15 AM
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I have formed the air hood for the cowling, using two layers of FG cloth. I applied mold release agent to the foam part, so the inner surface is smoother. I applied a flexible film over the assembly after glass cloth/epoxy application, and then pushed all into the surface of a sponge rubber block - to apply pressure to the outer surface. The surface was fine, except for some small wrinkles. The result is quite good, considering not much time was spent on this.

I will apply microballons/epoxy to the upper surface for further smoothing.

Bulent
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Old Mar 30, 2009, 06:30 AM
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I glued the instrument panel in place, that will also be used for planking the upper surface up to the firewall. It looks like a single sheet can be used for covering, at least on the top and bottom. Curves on the side may not permit covering with a single sheet.

I also prepared two of the simulated fuselage tubes, using 3 mm carbon tube, but they will be relocated because the 3-view was in error and that was carried on to the plan - good that I noticed this before gluing. The tubes have to pass just above the outer edges of the instrument panel. I will have to drill new holes and the carbon rods will be shortened, which is good.. Balsa covering will be easier with the new location. I prefer to have the carbon tubes passing through holes cut in the light ply members, because the tubes tend to split even while cutting them, and the final assembly will be much stronger in this way.

Bulent
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Old Apr 01, 2009, 05:45 AM
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I shifted and glued the carbon tubes, blocked old holes, prepared the balsa to cover that section in one piece, and covered the bottom section using a one piece balsa. The bottom covering is not perfect, but I guess it will be better with a little sanding. The edges have to be sanded yet. I used wakefield rubber to tie the sheet down, and that distorted it a bit - I should have been more careful.

I ordered some stuff from modelfixings.co.uk - my M2 die was not working, so I was not able to finish the tail wheel shaft. I found long M1.6 screws for the strut joiners, and canopy glue - I was searching for this since some time..

Bulent
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Old Apr 01, 2009, 07:34 AM
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Still looking very promising, Bulent.

Quote:
I ordered some stuff from modelfixings.co.uk
Great find!!! Loads of good stuff, that can be hard to find. And very reasonable prices too. Thank you

- Michael Hammer
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Old Apr 01, 2009, 10:44 AM
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Thanks for the compliments, these keep me going when I get bored..

Yes, they stock interesting items. I guess Milhafre had send that link to me.. I ordered M2 setscrews from there last time, but forgot to order the Allen key, now I bought a few of those 0.9 mm Allen keys. I could only find a very expensive screwdriver type key here; and I was afraid of tightening the setscrews, because the tool coud easily break. That resulted in the wheel pants of the Stinson rotating on the wheel axes, because only one M2 setscrew was holding them - talk of interesting results of simple things.

I noticed lately that this model is 1/8 scale; I thought it was something like 1/7.6, now it seems a more logical scale ratio The scale on the 3-view gave that fractional result, but it seems I had sized the plan the correct way and the scale was off. The construction method is better suited for 1/6 or 1/4 models, though. Maybe I will build a larger one later on, it will be easy to scale the drawing up..

Bulent
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Old Apr 02, 2009, 05:56 AM
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I have done some planking on the fuselage. The top was easy, but the side covering gave some problems due to insufficient thickness - so I removed it and will put in 2.5 mm sheet. It can be done with a single sheet, but may need some internal support for strength - well, maybe not with the thicker sheet.. I have glued in thin balsa inside the cabin, in the plywood cutoff areas. That supports the instrument panel, and it may come useful if I cover or paint the cabin interior later on. Some originals had leather covering there.

I have also built two servo cradles for S3114 servos to be used for the tails, but could not take photos of those. The air hood has cellulosic surfacer on it and it is drying - the micro baloons/epoxy job did not work, because I could not put on a uniform coat and removed it totally.

Bulent
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