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Old Apr 16, 2012, 02:55 PM
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Cobra68's Avatar
United States, WA, Ravensdale
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Thanks Cobra...Are you talking about the A-10 or SR-71 i.e. nosegear and CF mod to the wing?
I was talking about the A-10. Even with a stock set-up, it's a relatively heavy plane, and the wings tend to flex quite a bit. Just like the real plane, it's fun to put it in a 30 degree dive and pretend that you're opening up the gun on a row of tanks... but when you pull out of the dive, you can really see the wingtips bending up. The plane is surprisingly fast though...

The nosegear... well, it's just flimsy. It's pretty thin wire, and unless you land it perfectly, it bends pretty easy. There's a pretty tight V-bend in it to allow for the nosewheel steering arm to hold onto, and you can only straighten it out a few times before it breaks. It's stuck up into the plane and held on with a piece of rubber (kinda like a small diameter fuel tube) that slips over the strut and holds it in place. I made a new strut out of thicker wire and used a metal wheel collar with set screw to hold it in place.

It would be a good plane to run without landing gear... easy fuselage to hold onto for hand launches, and the motors won't be eating up a bunch of debris on landing. The hardest part about hand launching it will be not hitting yourself in the head with the wingtip...
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 03:55 PM
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Thanks...Yeah I was looking at that A-10...Looks like it could be a good airframe for these guts.

I would definitely hand toss it though...My flying field is not EDF-friendly with gear.

A lot of cool kits out there sold out!

I would love this one but it's 70MM twin and looks a little too big and heavy for hand tossing...But killer scale looks...

http://www.bananahobby.com/2076.html
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 04:28 PM
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As far as I recall I set them to soft cutoff. I set all my twins to soft cutoff but the issue you can still get is that even on soft cutoff there is no guarantee both ESCs will hit cutoff simultaneously. Even when set to the same setting one may react .1 volt different than the other. I had an issue like this actually on my GWS F15. After about 20 second of full throttle one motor would throttle down and the other kept running just fine. I had to set the cutoff voltage lower than I normally would and then it worked just fine. I have always since then flown twins by noting the mah put back into the battery and flying on a timer to 80% lipo capacity to ensure I never get close to a LVC situation. Of course this all assumes that is what happened.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Help! LVC?
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by lildaddym View Post
Help! LVC?
LVC=Low Voltage Cutoff
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:38 PM
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Ok! Thanks, sir!
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:52 PM
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You're on final and you've misjudged the time by 12 seconds...power goes off at the worst time. Funny how we save our $35 lipo and potentially sacrifice the $400 plane with LVC settings...my batts will cook before they cut out...hasn't happened yet, timer and wrist watch alerts LV, but my batts will go before the plane does.

Joe
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:53 PM
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LVC is sort of like an unstart on the real one.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Aros View Post
LVC is sort of like an unstart on the real one.
Makes total sense, now...and an unstart, in those low-altitude conditions, is terminal.
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Old Apr 16, 2012, 08:06 PM
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You can say that again. LOL
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:25 AM
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I did gut the remains...That cockpit deflection had me curious! There was a lot of flexing going on. Is that normal?
Pity you gutted it already, it could have told you so much about what happened if you'd powered it up and run it on the bench to recreate the final flight conditions. Be ware of that salvaged equipment when you put it in another airframe, I'd do several bench-runs before trying to maiden another aircraft with those electronics just in case it wasn't a battery issue Aros!

Regarding cockpit deflection during flight, did you simply glue your nose onto the main body as per the instructions or did you add any structural braces inside before glueing it together? I cut out 2 plywood braces and epoxied them into the sides of the main body to make a joiner... the nose then slipped over them when I epoxied it on. Mine feels very rigid as a result I cannot bend the cockpit part of the plane in relation to the main body by hand.

- Michael
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 11:35 AM
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I will definitely perform an extensive bench test on my electronics before I put them in the next airframe, whether it's another SR-71 or a different plane. I really think it was my battery. I won't be buying any more Nanotechs.

I did not add any structural braces in this airframe. I've done that in the past but I figured I would be repairing this one like all the ones before and since it tends to clean break at the glue line, I wanted it to be easy to clean out and repair.

You know those addicting games where you keep crashing or burning or losing in the end? It's so frustrating yet so addicting, you can't seem to help yourself so you start the game over and over and over, hoping you will finally master it.

That's precisely how I feel about this plane.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 04:23 PM
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All I want for my birthday and Christmas this year is a manufacturer to come out with a SR-71 Blackbird as smooth and easy to fly and enjoy as the Real Flight 6 Expansion 7 pack version...

Real Flight 6 SR-71 Blackbird (2 min 7 sec)
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:00 PM
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If you find that airframe, let me know..I want one! It looks pretty accurate, too...
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 06:17 PM
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It feels and sounds like a turbine. Much larger and heavier than these little 64MM's we try to skip around our fields. That's one reason why it flies much more stable. Overall flight dynamics is similar but there is a wider envelope for error on the sim obviously that you can never ask for in real life. However, I KNOW this bird could be manufactured much, much better than these LX and Maxjets.

It would require a much larger air frame, a higher power system...It would probably defeat the purpose of inexpensive RC flying. Something I am thinking of would probably retail for $1,000.00 at the very least.

But I would pay the higher figure if a much larger stable platform was behind the price tag. I know the air frame would never be considered "easy to fly", the nature of the design itself would ensure that. But something closer to what you see in my video above should not be out of the realm of possibility nor our pocket books.
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