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Old Nov 21, 2008, 01:53 PM
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Mini-HowTo
Venom GPV-1 Hints and tips

For the GPV-1 I thought I'd kick off a thread for feedback and ideas, so let's have your thoughts on rectification or improvements only people, not a discussion so the thread stays informative and compact, OK?
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 01:57 PM
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Steering centred

The servo horn should be 90 degrees to the link rod at straight ahead, if it's not just re-centre it, use a 1.5mm hex wrench to slacken the two collets, unscrew the servo horn with a little philips and pull the servo horn right off the splines, turn on the radio tx & rx and leave it at neutral, check any trims etc are all at centre too, reposition the servo horn on it's splines to it's 90 degrees to the link rod and re-tighten the centre screw. Reposition your spring collets so they are just touching the spring and pushing it lightly aginst the centre slider and re-tighten the grub screws.
Job done. Two minutes with a hex wrench and you'll be sorted.

Steering as recieved. Offset to one side with wheel dead ahead.


As Reset to 90 degrees at straight ahead.
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 02:04 PM
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Speedo reposition to clear front wheel

If the speed controller is mounted horizontally the front corner is too near the front tyre, so reposition it at an angle parralel to the chassis leading edge.

As supplied


Relocated to improve clearance.
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Old Nov 21, 2008, 02:10 PM
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Mini Mongoose from Novak

If fitting the Mini Mongoose from Novak, the 13.5T motor is plenty fast enough, silly quick on a car park, way too fast to handle around a race track like Bedworth but a lot of fun. With stickier tyres I'm sure it would wheelie but the kit tyres spin up and save you trashing the bodywork!

I found fitting the receiver on the opposite side allowed the Mongoose to sit and wire nicely where the reciever used to live.
Don't forget the Mongoose has a 1/8th shaft so you need the Mod 0.5 Novak pinions too!

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Old Nov 22, 2008, 09:31 AM
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Sticky please mods.
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Old Nov 22, 2008, 04:58 PM
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Redlands, CA
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Prepping & Setting Up Your GPV-1 for Trouble-Free Running

Hey guys this bike is awesome! I took mine apart and put it back together locktite according to the instruction manual. Put the radio where I want. Had to dremel some parts of the body where there were rubbing issues. Very mild dremel work in the servo opening of the chassis to fit the servo I put in. When you take the bike apart you notice a lot of fine engineering details that you would not see if you just go out and run it uninspected and set up. When the hop ups arrive this thing is gonna kick tail as this thing is impressive enough in stock form. Oh! the decals. I peeled off any that I did not like and any that I liked but were bubbling I hit with a heat gun and massaged them into place. It actually worked. Oh the Radio is one of the secrets of this Bike. I set the STEERING EPA 55/55 it makes the turning very scale like. You can run the bike with a minimun of that annoying scraping of the bars on the road. THROTTLE EPA 120/17. The DR settings are POS 0 set at 80 and POS 1 Set at 70. This way you can set the sensitivity where you can run it mostly at 70 for that scale looking peformance and feel and 80 for more Aggressive Running. Of course you can change this as you run with your left thumb on the radio. Also changed oil in shocks. I feel weird not knowin who and when built the shocks, so I think it is a very smart thing to do as it sets up a predictable and known performance baseline. Ciao Bella.

VLF 46
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Last edited by Daktari; Nov 22, 2008 at 06:13 PM.
Old Nov 22, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Dez,

I hope people enjoy the bikes and working and playing with them. I think that since the bike is RTR Some people do not expect to have to do some basic RC Hobby Stuff. It's a hobby and that is what makes it cool. I have been in RC for a long time but my love for bikes is that with bikes there are so many parameters to tinker with it can keep you in the interest zone for years. The other type of RC that seems similar is Helis. Its funny too that Bikes and Helis are basically these contraptions that mimic their full size counterpart in a very mechanically oriented way. Planes do that but there is a beauty to planes that makes sense unlike Helis. Helicopters do not look like they should be flying. Bikes have that same thing too. That is why they are so addictive. I think us hobbyist should be very grateful of the high quality of models we now have. I hope when people get their bikes that they will go out and enjoy them fully.

VLF 46
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Last edited by Daktari; Nov 22, 2008 at 06:41 PM.
Old Nov 22, 2008, 06:51 PM
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I have a request for front disc brake pictures/review. Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 03:52 AM
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Triple clamps lower screw.

Undo the clamp bolts on the lower triple clamp and just do them up finger tight, stops them clamping the leg tight enough to pinch the leg and squeeze piston as it goes past inside !

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Old Nov 26, 2008, 03:54 AM
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Fork leg lowers.

Check the fork legs are screwed all the way into their lowers, or the legs will be diffeent lengths and the front tyre will rub on the fork leg as it tilts over.

If you take both legs out of the bike you can accuratly adjust both fork legs to be exactly the same length for perfect alignment. Don't over tighten, the leg lowers are plastic and you can strip the threads out.

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Old Nov 26, 2008, 04:52 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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GPV-1 Drifting

If you like to slide the bike on power, Gary McCoy style, you will need to take the front fairing off and Dremel away a little more clearance for the forks to reach their stops on the chassis. Start by marking the body work in the spot that touches the fork tubes, L/R. Use a sanding drum or curved scissors and remove just enough lexan to allow full movement. Put it all back together and try it out!
You might also consider some minor adjustments to the rear suspension to find the balance point of grip and power for more control.

Works best with a bike outfitted with a brushless system and Lipo battery.

This isnt required for general operation and the bike works fine stock but if you like to slide big on power the GPV-1 can do it and its fun to watch.

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 05:03 PM
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O-ring break in

The GPV-1 has very smooth suspension but it can be made even better. Start by removing the forks and the rear shock. Take each part and cycle it in and out for a few minutes. Inspect the o-rings after a while and see that the little seam from the mold is worn down or gone. For the rear shock you can substitute silicone o-rings of your choice. For the forks the best way is to wear them in a bit. Now put it all back together and try it on the bike. You should be able to push down on the tank body mount and watch both the front and rear suspension compress smoothly and evenly.

Chris
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Old Nov 26, 2008, 05:17 PM
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Finding grip on a poor surface

The GPV-1 is outfitted with very soft stock tires. To make the best of them on even the worst surface you can do a couple things to find more grip. First thing to understand about the bike is that the front end is not where you find the grip you need to get around on a slippery dusty surface. The secret is the rear suspension. The front will almost always grip, to a point, so leave it alone and work with the rear end. Start with the softest rear shock setting, the forward most mounting hole in either the RTR chassis or the Race chassis. Use the preload collar on the rear shock to set the ride height and tension. Usually you will need to raise the collar "tighten it" to soften the spring preload. Lower the downstop set screw to allow the swing arm to be more active. Try to keep the chassis ride level but slightly lower in the rear is ok.

Next tip is to keep your tires clean after each run, tire sauce optional.
The whole idea is to allow the rear suspension to do all the work needed to find grip so a more active rear set up will help.

The GPV-1 has been tested in the very cold climate of North Idaho in near freezing temps so believe me you can find grip in the worst places...like our parking lot. For this extreme you must use the V1 compound tires.

The most obvious tip of all is...just dont run on really bad dusty parking lots...but hey late night races in the local Best Buy under the lights are fun!


Chris
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Last edited by Chris Nicastro; Nov 26, 2008 at 05:39 PM.
Old Nov 26, 2008, 05:31 PM
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Post Falls, ID United States
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Why does my bike/steering go to one side?

If your at the end of your radio trim and the bike is still taking off in one direction right when you launch it the fix is simple. Take it back to the bench and remove the body work so you can see the chassis. Recenter your radio steering trim and subtrim if you changed it. You have to hold the bike in a way so that the front and rear wheels are aligned and parallel. Use a 1.5mm driver and loosen the steering link collars just a bit so they move. With the steering centered and wheels parallel reset each collar so the spring tension is even on each side of the servo horn/link.

Remember tighter spring tension = more responsive steering. The stock setting is for the springs to just touch the other parts and not be compressed.

Once set you should be able to hold the bike up and steer and see the tripple clamps touch the chassis for max steering then return to center. It wont be absolutly perfect but just get it very close and it will work great.

Remember, this is a counter steering set up so right input = left output to go right. Do not change that direction or you will steer left and go right!

This adjustment is simple and typical after some big crashing and tumbles. Keep an eye on the tripple clamps from coming loose or damage which will change the front ride height and effect the way the bike handles.

Chris
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Old Dec 01, 2008, 04:58 PM
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My steering is sticky, how can I fix this?

If you take a look at the 3 pivot ball links and notice any one of them is tight you can fix this in a simple manner. Use a plier a gently pinch the plastic link over the brass pivot ball just a little bit. It will help stretch the plastic just slightly to loosen its grip on the brass pivot ball.
Next check to see the tripple clamps are parallel and not pinching the steering stem tightly. There should be a tiny bit of play up/down and the forks should turn with little to no effort with the links attached.
After a big crash check to make sure the steering stem pin is still straight., see your instructions for removal info.

Chris
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