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Old Nov 16, 2008, 07:56 PM
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Build Log
Peak-Hobby Binary-III DLG Building Thread

Overview



Binary-III is the new competition DLG designed and manufactured by Peak-Hobby (http://www.peak-hobby.com/).
Peak-Hobby has been well known as their Ice-Fire and Binary series that have been great starting planes for new DLG pilots. Recently, the new generation Binary-III DLG is a big step forward which targets for competition as well as high performance sports flying.

Peak-Hobby creates the new technique called MIC (Molded Inner Core) in 2007. MIC takes the advantages of both bagged and molded constructions to create accurate, light weight, durable, and easy-to-repair models.

As the first all mold core model, Binary-III is an excellent DLG for F3K competition as well as for sports flying. It is build with the latest material and technique such as Basalt fiber, oval-shape boom, and MIC construction which makes it an excellent model for both experts and beginners.

As you can see in the following picture, the LE is very nicely made and the wing surface is as smooth as a molded wing.



The boom is oval-shape which provides a lot more stiffness and results in higher launch.
The pod is made from Basalt fiber and it is 2.4G safe!

Since this plane utilizes a lot of new construction methods, I would like to share some of the building pictures with you.

Caution: Use only epoxy or foam-safe-CA in the assembly process.





The kit is well packed and very complete which includes:
<1> Two-piece MIC wing
<2> Oval-shape boom
<3> MIC tail set
<4> Aluminum wing pylon and full-flying-stab pylon
<5> Basalt fiber and FG for wing and tail reinforcement
<6> Carbon pushrods
<7> Carbon control horns and all other hardware to finish the kit

-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 07:57 PM
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Aileron

Aileron

In the factory, the aileron has been slightly cut out but need some works to trim and sand it. Use Excel knife to lightly cut through the top wing skin.
[Note]: Do NOT cut through the bottom skin, the bottom skin will serve as the hinge line



After cutting the top wing skin and the foam, use a small piece of sand paper to remove the foam in the slot of the hinge line. Trim it smoothly.



Hmm... It looks good...
[NOTE]: The factory step doesn't cut the tip-end of the aileron. You can decide if you want to cut it later.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 07:58 PM
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Sand Dihedral and Glue Two-Piece Wing Together

Sand Dihedral and Glue Two-Piece Wing Together

Unlike the bagged wing that we usually need to make the "hard-point", Binary-III
already "molded" a piece of composite material in the wing root to serve as the hard-point.
Be sure to not sand out those materials while trimming the dihedral.



Tape the bottom of the wing with packaging tape.



I use 3-HR epoxy with micro balloon to glue the two half wing together.



Put some weigh on both side of the wing and wipe out the extra epoxy.





It will take 24-HR to get the epoxy set.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 07:59 PM
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Wing Mount

Wing Mount

Based on the given plan, measure and mark the wing mount location.



Use Excel knife to cut off the wing skin and remove some foam to make the pylon fit flush with the wing surface. Don’t worry if you take too much foam, it will filled with epoxy and microballoon later.



Check if the pylon fit nicely… Hmm… this looks good.



Once confirm the pylon fit flush with the wing surface, use a small drill to drill through the wing. Make sure it is perpendicular with the wing surface.



Enlarge the hole we drilled in the previous step. Make sure it is large enough to fit the plastic-screw-house.



This is good… The plastic-screw-house sit nicely inside the hole.



Trim the plastic-screw-house.
[Note]: Actually, you can trim it later since the plastic is very easy to sand.



OK… now comes the critical part.
It is very important to mount the wing in the correct position with the boom/pod. To work on this, you need a flat surface where has two perpendicular lines to measure the wing and pod position.

We first dry fit to see if the hole we dig is good enough… Hmm… good.



Check few more times…



Put a lot of “Car Wax” or “Vaseline” on the surface of the aluminum pylon. I also use packaging tape to make sure the epoxy won’t stick on the pylon. Put a lot of wax or Vaseline on the screw as well. Apply epoxy on it. I use 5-minute epoxy with microballoon in this step.

[Note]: Your building buddy might give you a lot of sxxt if you use Vaseline. I strongly suggest use Car-Wax instead.



On the wing, apply epoxy on it too.



Make sure you get everything align right.







Special thanks to Dom, Kirk and Bob for helping me on this part. The wing mount comes out very nice.



If you didn’t trim the plastic-screw-house in previous steps, it is time to do so now.
Sand the top and bottom wing surface and reinforce it with the given Basalt fiber.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 07:59 PM
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Elevator

Elevator

According to the plan, mark the location of the full-flying-stab mount.



Cut a 3mm * 25mm slot to fit the carbon rod.
[Note]: You don’t have to cut through the stab like I do. 



Sand the carbon plat and rod nicely to increase glue bond.



Glue it with CA. (My bad, I suggest use foam-safe CA in the whole building process)



Mark the location of the bottom carbon plat.
[Note]: There is a “cut” at one side of the carbon plat which will be the location of elevator control-horn. Make sure you put it on the right side.



Sand the stab surface and drill some tiny holes to have too epoxy bond. Don’t do too much, epoxy is very heavy!



Do similar process on the top of the stab.



This is how it looks like



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:00 PM
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Pod + Boom

Pod + Boom

Since the boom is oval-shape, it is very easy to align it with the pod.
However, the inner size of aluminum pylon is a little under size, it takes some sanding to fit the pylon to the correct boom position.



I slightly “sand” the boom with a knife to remove some shinny epoxy. Not sure how much weight I can save but I do it on other projects too.
[Note]: Don’t sand out the carbon part, it will reduce the strength of the boom.



Dry fit to make sure everything align right.



More…
[Note]: I sand/round the LE of the pylon to reduce some drag.



Peak-Hobby really does very good job on manufacturing the kit. You can see the pod has some nice reinforcements on some parts which might see a lot of break on DLG.





Once everything is aligned, use epoxy to get the pod and boom together.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:01 PM
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Rudder

Rudder

The rudder is very easy to assemble.
First, mark the location of hinge line with masking tape.
[Note]: Make sure which side you want to do it, depends which hand you are going to launch the plane.

Use Excel knife to cut through the scan and the foam. Make sure not to cut through another side of the skin. We will use it as hinge.



Similar to what we do on the slot of aileron hinge line, use a small piece of sand paper to clean the foam of the hinge slot.



Use the provided FG patch to reinforce the rudder/boom mount.
You can see from the following pictures, the manufacture really pay a lot of attention on detail. They tape the FG clothes to make sure it won’t get loose.



3M the two piece of small FG patch.



Put it on rudder. I use foam-safe-CA in this step. If I am going to do it again, I will use finish resin epoxy. Will look better.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:01 PM
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Servo Install

Servo Install

All servos will be installed inside the pod. Since the pod has some room, I decide to use Hitec HS-45 servo which is stronger than the D47. First, I prepare some tiny plywood to “lift” the rudder and elevator servos and make sure they won’t interference with each other.



Glue them on the servos.



Use canopy glue to glue it inside the pod.



Closer look



For two aileron servos, glue a piece of balsa wood on the bottom to make sure it can touch the bottom of the pod.


Similar to R/E servos, apply canopy glue to glue the aileron servos into pod.



Drill holes for R/E/A pushrods.





Hmm… it looks good. Make sure it is as straight as possible.





Unlike most of other DLG kits using Teflon tubing, Binary-III uses heat shrink tube as pushrod housing. To make it works, I use iron to make it shrink a little bit to fit the pushrod size.
[Note] Don’t over do it, the heat-shrink-tube may be getting to small.



After a while, I have a bunch of right size tubing ready. 



Apply it on…



Linkage setup. It takes some time to make sure the aileron control won’t interference with each other.



I use AR500 2.4G Rx in this plane and it works great!
Here is my setup. I also use 2c LiPo with regulator.



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:02 PM
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Final Touch

Final Touch

Glue the control horn on ailerons, rudder, and stab.









Cover the pod with the given Basalt fiber piece.



Launch peg install…



Here we go! Program the radio, check the CG…



-Kai
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:02 PM
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Others

Stay Tune...
I will share some tips here later...
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:03 PM
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Test Fly / Setup

Test Fly / Setup
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:04 PM
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Q/a

Q/A

Yes, there will be a Chinese (BIG5) version later.
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 08:06 PM
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Hi Kai,

Just in time . Can't wait to see your pictures ....

Geode
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 09:26 PM
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Molded Inner Core

Can someone explain the molded inner core process to me? I've seen it mentioned a lot with the Peak Hobby products, but I don't think I've ever seen an explanation of what it is and how it works. Thanks!
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 09:58 PM
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They have a full foam core within a molded wing. So you get the super clean and accurate skin while having a low tip inertia. Its the best of both worlds.A few guys are working on this ,but this is the first production model.As they get better at this we will see the weight of wings go down on the molded ships.Good build thread Kai.
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