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Old Nov 09, 2008, 04:36 PM
Hey, watch this!
Raymond-leflyr's Avatar
United States, NC, Garner
Joined Feb 2005
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Cutting G10 and Shellac on FFF

I have been using the thinnest G10 from Dave Brown (I think I got it from him) to reinforce fuselages for our electric combat panes. Sandwiched between a couple of layers of FFF it seems to work pretty good. I've been cutting 1/4 to 1/2-inch wide strips from the larger sheet by scoring with a model knife and 'cracking' to separate it. I want to order some thicker sheets for larger projects but I don't think the scoring/cracking procedure is the best way to cut the stuff. Does anyone have experience cutting up to 1/16 G10?

Also, I have been using regular clear shellac for a balsa sanding sealer for decades. Recently I was using it on an Elipstick and had a scrap piece of FFF nearby that I used as a place to wipe off the excess shellac from the brush . Just for kicks I ended up painting on three coats of shellac on the 12x3-inch scrap. The scrap had film on one side and I painted the 'bare' side. It did not warp and it is noticeably stiffer. I have no idea how much weight I added but it may at least be useful to strengthen curved parts. So the other question is; has anyone used shellac on FFF before and with what results?

FWIW, the shellac is cheap and it dries quick but I recently tried using Minwax Wood Hardener and it serves as well as Shellac as a sealer but it really does harden balsa. I haven't used it on FFF but I will the next chance I get. Has anyone else fiddled with the stuff?
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 04:41 PM
I just want to fly
justwanttofly's Avatar
USA, IN, Jeffersonville
Joined Aug 2008
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Im sorrry but what is G10?
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 07:23 PM
quick, stretch into a monster!
Mr.Me's Avatar
Everett, WA
Joined Apr 2007
978 Posts
fiberglass.
cutting it- try using heavy shears. that might do it.
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Old Nov 09, 2008, 07:55 PM
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Palmdale, Ca
Joined Jul 2004
243 Posts
you can cut fiberglass with a bandsaw. The blade will dull quick but it still cuts it and you can use that same blade over and over on fiberglass. Just dont try to cut wood with that blade. Word of caution...Wear a dust mask !!!!!
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 12:49 AM
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larryross's Avatar
Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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Use a utility knife with a shingle cutting draw blade. Use a straight edge and score both sides with 2 passes then bend slightly on the edge of a table and it will pop cleanly. I have successfully done this on .062 G10. I have etched PC boards for electronic projects.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 06:53 AM
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Quebec, Canada
Joined Aug 2006
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a hacksaw ( metal saw) works well.
Wb
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 10:54 AM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windbender
a hacksaw ( metal saw) works well.
Wb
Ya that's true WB, but not as easy to hold on to as a utility knife and a little rough on your hands as you need to apply substantial pressure (I've used that too, but would not recommend it).

WB I think I misunderstood your comment. I thought you meant to use a broken hacksaw blade. Anyway don't use a broken hacksaw blade. If you are cutting narrow strips I think trying to cut with a hack saw would cause the piece you are cutting off to brake off every 1/2" or so. This has been my experience anyway.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 10:58 AM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raymond-leflyr
I have been using the thinnest G10 from Dave Brown (I think I got it from him) to reinforce fuselages for our electric combat panes. Sandwiched between a couple of layers of FFF it seems to work pretty good. I've been cutting 1/4 to 1/2-inch wide strips from the larger sheet by scoring with a model knife and 'cracking' to separate it. I want to order some thicker sheets for larger projects but I don't think the scoring/cracking procedure is the best way to cut the stuff. Does anyone have experience cutting up to 1/16 G10?

Also, I have been using regular clear shellac for a balsa sanding sealer for decades. Recently I was using it on an Elipstick and had a scrap piece of FFF nearby that I used as a place to wipe off the excess shellac from the brush . Just for kicks I ended up painting on three coats of shellac on the 12x3-inch scrap. The scrap had film on one side and I painted the 'bare' side. It did not warp and it is noticeably stiffer. I have no idea how much weight I added but it may at least be useful to strengthen curved parts. So the other question is; has anyone used shellac on FFF before and with what results?

FWIW, the shellac is cheap and it dries quick but I recently tried using Minwax Wood Hardener and it serves as well as Shellac as a sealer but it really does harden balsa. I haven't used it on FFF but I will the next chance I get. Has anyone else fiddled with the stuff?
Let me know how the wood hardener works on FFF if you try it.

Larry
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 02:33 PM
Hey, watch this!
Raymond-leflyr's Avatar
United States, NC, Garner
Joined Feb 2005
455 Posts
Addiction is it?

Oh Larry, how sad it is to read of your addiction to FFF - because I too am afflicted! I hereby take strength from your public confession and declare to the world that, "FFF has changed my life!" There, I've said it out load and I'm no longer ashamed.

For me its not just FFF, but the evil trio. Yes, FFF, outrunners, and li-pos.

But take heart Larry. All is not lost. The Elipstik shellacing led me to experiment with it on FFF, and I'll try wood hardener next. Judging from the smell I would expect wood Hardener to attack the foam but I thought that shellac would too. There, I've admitted to being wrong once. See how I've grown?

As for the G10 (fibreglass/resin laminate) cutting, I tried scissors and got cracked/broken pieces. Scoring and cracking requires a lot of scoring and I don't think its what I want for the thicker pieces. So I guess I'll sacrifice a bandsaw blade and make sure I have a zero-clearance table insert in place. The scroll saw would probably work for shorter pieces; twice throat depth. But the bandsaw would be quicker I'm sure.

I need to cut out a couple of FFF wings in the next day or two so I'll report back on the wood hardener but I intend to use shellac on at least the 'step' part of a KF wing (just the front 40% to keep the weight down). I'll try to remember to weigh before and after.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 02:41 PM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
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Thanks for your understanding Ray
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 02:44 PM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
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Maybe someone will start group therapy for people like us.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 03:26 PM
My plans are in my blog
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Kotzebue, Alaska
Joined May 2006
5,416 Posts
Hello, my name is Donald, and I'm a foam-aholic. I've been addictied to foam for about four years now. I was not aware of any addictive qualities it harbors, so I took to it full force. I use it almost every day, especially on weekends, where I am known to go mighty close to over-dosing on the stuff.
My family and friends suffer because of it.
wife: You spend more time with that stuff then me!
Kids: Why don't you ever play with me any more?
Friends: Long time no see.
I don't know what to do anymore. I need help.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 05:50 PM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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HELLO DONALD!!!
Welcome... We know what you mean.
Wife: You're going through your second childhood. Your planes are better documented pictorially than your kids.
Kids: Been gone fore some time... When did that happen?
Friends: What's that something you glue or paint foam with?
I don't know if there is any help for us.
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Old Nov 10, 2008, 07:08 PM
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Grand Junction, Colorado
Joined Dec 2007
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Donald
I hijacked your wart hog thread. Not really, I vectored and did a pdf for myself and posted the pdf and tiled templates if anyone else was interested. Hope that was OK.

Larry
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Old Nov 11, 2008, 06:10 AM
Hey, watch this!
Raymond-leflyr's Avatar
United States, NC, Garner
Joined Feb 2005
455 Posts
Well Donald and Larry I can only quote from one of my favorite movies (perhaps second only to the Sound of Music), "oh the horror, the horror!"

Edit: Aha, scoring both sides! Haven't tried that. By the by, is there a better (cheaper) source for G10 than Dave Brown?
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Last edited by Raymond-leflyr; Nov 11, 2008 at 06:37 AM.
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