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Old Nov 16, 2008, 04:59 PM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
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They use 325 mm.
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 05:11 PM
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Hey Gino, what is the quality of carbon hobby blades with this kit?
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Old Nov 16, 2008, 05:19 PM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
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The blades are are quite good. The profile is a bit more sleeker than the old CopterX CF blades. But it is not quite a tear drop shape like Aligns. But compared to the old CopterX blades, it looks like this one will bite better.

The blade has a painted top. Looks like high quality silk screen. It doesn't have the sheen of a gel coat. The bottom is gel coated black cf. It won't be as visible when grass cutting. But it should give a hard grey disc when flying high.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 12:01 AM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
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Update build pics are on page 3

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...3#post10950513
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 12:44 AM
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I like the design of the blades
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 06:53 AM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
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Almost done

I'm almost done. Next up will be installing the cyclic servo horns. Then head setup and programming. This heli really speaks of quality. From design, to finish, and looks.

I'm done programming the tail. Very smooth action back there. The Fusonic HB-D-02 digital servo is very quick and precise. Only one hitch, the servo horn can't be centered. I left it at best effort.

More pics to follow.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 08:34 AM
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I just finished my copterX build tonight!

Had a bugger of a job getting the "jesus bolt" in. There are three sleeves, it has to run through all three, and all three can and do rotate in any direction and the head of course can slide up and down, and the middle sleeve can move as well. The gear/slip mechanism means the slightest jog in one direction means you have to rotate the head 180 degrees back around again to re-find the hole. Much cursing. Maybe someone knows a better way? I've not encountered this before but this is my first assembly so what do I know... It also wasn't clear to me that the collar below the head and above the frame, which has two grommets to hold it, is best moved up or down by rotating it, like a screw.

Second problem: the scorpion escape does not fit, (45A). It is too wide and too long. It can sort-of fit but then there is no hope of getting the canopy on. So I used a less functional but much smaller dualsky escape. Shame, I was looking forward to the scorpion. It has the programming remote IR, and looks great in gold.

Third problem: the canopy holes are too small for the rubber grommets. At least I failed trying to squash them in. Out with the dremel and I took the chance to widen them in the direction that gives more space as well as taking the dremel to the bottom again to give more space.. otherwise it is very tricky to pull the canopy over the mounting posts. When complete it easily swallows a fairly fat zippy 2250

Fourth problem: the scorpion motor screws are useless for the mounting block, you need machine bolts which are longer. Luckily I had two that were long but not so long that they drive into the motor windings. Oh, and the wires from the scorpion are unfortunately placed for the copterX. Trimming the excess heat shrink helps, though. There is enough diameter for a fatter motor than the HK-2221-8 or whatever 22 series I have here.

Eyeballing the swash and the servo arms, and getting the directions right in the dx6i, and the swash mix right, I found everything satisfactory with full positive and negative pitch available and no buzzing servos. Using HS65MG, and the second from longest horns with one side cut off.

Another issue is a servo sometimes glitches with fairly fast motion, like a little wobble at one point. This is nothing to do with the copterX, just something I observed with the AR6200 and DX6i and HS65MG. Maybe I'll try to isolate it to a specific servo, or the ESC or something..

The canopy looks good on, with the black having a metallic sheen to it, nice and substantial look to it and really covers everything up.

I think I either lost as servo mount nut and bolt, or the kit was missing it..

I'm looking forward to flying this thing. It looks tuff ..
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Last edited by nyc863; Nov 17, 2008 at 08:43 AM.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 10:46 AM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
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I finished the build tonight. Simple night test flight showed what an awesome heli this is. I am using just an old CopterX 430L with 13T but the power is amazing. Heli is super quiet. All you hear are the motor and blades. Collective is so much more responsive. There is very little dead band in the middle in stunt mode. I am amazed.

My setup:

AR6100
Revolectrix 3S 25C 2200mah lipo
CopterX 430L with 13T pinion
Fusonic MG-D-04 cyclic
Fusonic HB-D-02 tail
Spartan gyro
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:12 AM
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what is the main to tail roto ratio?
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:23 AM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
9,564 Posts
1:4.25 roughly
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 08:29 PM
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you found a manual for this Gino? none in my box and I are searching the net for one
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 08:35 PM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
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No manual yet. To mount the balls on the servo arms, make a tap form an extra bolt of same size as ball studs. Then cut notch on tip to have a sharp edge. Then taper. I used a DRemel cutoff wheel. Then I clamped the bolt on locking pliers. After I tapped the servo horns, installation was easy.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitrosharkiii
you found a manual for this Gino? none in my box and I are searching the net for one
The manual is online, at the copterX site..
http://www.copterx.com/copterx_blackangel_manual.pdf

it isn't very good! you have to skip most of the first half because much is pre-assembled.

I found a problem with my assembly, I put the belt twist the wrong way. There is english writing on the belt and it is upside down if you twist it the wrong way. The wrong way means the tail goes the wrong way and the neutral pitch is wrong. So off with the belt, and do it again.

(The plus side is I got faster with the jesus bolt. My system now is:
wedge something under the shaft to press everything upwards..
rotate the head so the hole in the shaft faces you..
rotate the grey cog so the outer hole faces you..
slowly rotate the engine cog backwards until you see daylight..
carefully push through the bolt, then you need very fine needle nose pliers to hold the nut still..)

If you correct the belt with another twist too far the belt will make clicking sounds as it rotates. Heli will fly but belt will shred.

After I sorted that out... all was good.

The blades in the box don't balance as well as the yellow align carbon fibers which were nearly perfect both in weight and CG. The copterX carbon blades almost feel like wood blades..

Very important to bench test it without blades, spin up and run at high speed for a while. Any bolts that were inadequately thread locked will shake themselves loose and fall out. I had three of them fall out doing this! If it happens on the maiden flight you will miss it, and there are a lot of bolts to check, many are not critical.
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Old Nov 17, 2008, 11:25 PM
Team Mulikow
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Manila, Philippines
Joined Oct 2006
9,564 Posts
I just flew the blades as is and they were fine. The paint scrapes when you fold the blades for storage.

Oh don't forget to slip on the servo mounts on the boom. I forgot to do that and had to redo the tail LOL. I'm still working on correct servo link geometry. I don't have much tail authority.
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Old Nov 18, 2008, 12:23 AM
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I used this
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552714

for my 401 setup.

With the pitch slider in mid-throw, the tail
blades were neutral (0 degrees) rather than having some positive
pitch built in.. pretty much the 401 was set to 100% of travel using
the futaba servo wheel after I shifted the servo so the slider was
@ center.

Then in non-heading hold mode about 10-15 clicks of subtrim stops the
piro, so the 401 has memorized that as neutral in its AVCS (hh) mode.

oh and when I discovered my belt twist problem I tried to undo a tail
bolt using the included allen key but it was so tight, it stripped the head
I'm not sure how I am going to get that bolt off if I need a new belt ...
I guess the copterX bolts are not exactly hardened steel. Replacing many with quality hex head machine screws might be the right thing at some
point.
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