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Old Jun 05, 2010, 11:37 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
1,737 Posts
I just bought and maidened a RX ready version that was $115 with Tower Club discount and got free shipping also which saved another $10. I think it is a real bargain at this price.

Assembly was fast with no problems encountered. It is being flown on DX6i and AR 500 rx, Turnigy 2200 mah batt. Balances perfectly with this setup and weighs 38 oz RTF. Draws 215 watts and 17.7 amps which is close to the numbers reported for the ST model of this plane. Is this version now getting the more powerful motor? I also noticed that the compressed foam hinges now have additional clear plastic hinges installed at the outer ends. Is this a change from the original?

Flight characteristics are very fine. Enough power for moderate loops from level flight and slow rolls.
This plane looks it's best, however, being flown in a scale manner and there's more than enough power for that.

I'm still fine tuning trim and down elev mix with flaps but it looks like this will be a very enjoyable plane. It's got to be one of the nicest looking foamys with the lights, tinted windows, and workable front strut.
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Old Jun 07, 2010, 11:34 PM
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Joined Feb 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbc View Post
I just bought and maidened a RX ready version that was $115 with Tower Club discount and got free shipping also which saved another $10. I think it is a real bargain at this price.

Assembly was fast with no problems encountered. It is being flown on DX6i and AR 500 rx, Turnigy 2200 mah batt. Balances perfectly with this setup and weighs 38 oz RTF. Draws 215 watts and 17.7 amps which is close to the numbers reported for the ST model of this plane. Is this version now getting the more powerful motor? I also noticed that the compressed foam hinges now have additional clear plastic hinges installed at the outer ends. Is this a change from the original?

Flight characteristics are very fine. Enough power for moderate loops from level flight and slow rolls.
This plane looks it's best, however, being flown in a scale manner and there's more than enough power for that.

I'm still fine tuning trim and down elev mix with flaps but it looks like this will be a very enjoyable plane. It's got to be one of the nicest looking foamys with the lights, tinted windows, and workable front strut.
If anyone does know if it now comes with a more powerful motor im very interested i had the st version 2 of them actually but do to a couple of rough flights they just hang on the ceiling for looks. If the rx version does have a better motor and esc let me know.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 12:52 PM
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rstoomanyhobbies's Avatar
Raleigh (area), NC
Joined Jun 2006
79 Posts
dbc: I want one of these and see they are $140 shipped free on ebay but my latest Tower flyer shows $159.99 for the RX ready version. I do have the $15 "come back" coupon but dang, I'm going to have to check into the "club" if you got yours that cheap.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 08:08 PM
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325FGP's Avatar
USA, IN, Anderson
Joined Jul 2009
569 Posts
If this has been covered already my apologies, but has anyone had issues with attaching the wing? I've pushed on the bolt as hard as I thought I dared and it doesn't go far enough into the hole to turn.
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Old Jun 29, 2010, 07:45 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
1,737 Posts
"Tower Club" is a good idea if you buy much from them. You can sometimes catch membership special for $9.95. Gives you better discounts as well as free shipping on orders of $150 or more. BTW- until Wed they are offering free shipping on $100 or more to everyone. Also, current price on RX ready from Tower is $139.99 - flyer does not reflect the new price but website does.

Now would be a good time to pick up one from Tower - $120 shipped with club discount. Another $5 off if you increase original order to $150.

Wings can be a little difficult to install - especially at first. Try reaching into the fuse and pushing up on the retainer area while installing plastic rod. I had to work with mine a few minutes at first but after first time, it goes together fairly easily.
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Old Aug 07, 2010, 10:09 PM
Western Nebraska
Joined Aug 2010
4 Posts
My apologies if I'm in the wrong forum. Just say so and give me a pointer if that is the case. This is my first post here.

Having been interested in RC flying since before they existed, I was thrilled when I won the 182 Skylane at a recent RC event. I wanted to be very careful and not fly it until I had someone else test fly it and talk me through things.

My work schedule has had me extremely busy since I won it, but I have had it out in the driveway a couple of times taxiing and trying to get used to the controller. While I do have a SEL/MEL & Commercial ticket, I haven't flown for decades, and never an RC. I wanted to get used to using the left stick for rudder control and throttle. Steering on the ground with the left stick comes unnaturally for me, especially since I have years of flight sim experience with a single stick in the right hand. The controls seem a little touchy, but that's probably just my lack of experience with it.

Now the problem. While taxiiing the last time out, I managed to run the nose into a brick. Actually, the contact point was the front gear, not the actual nose. But, the prop was turning at a pretty low power setting. The prop caught on the top of the same brick, stopping it. I killed the throttle immediately upon contact. Out of this incident, I have two problems. First, the nose wheel and the rudder no longer match up. Second, the motor itself vibrates.

The rudder/nose wheel alignment I am assuming comes from a slipped wire going to the servo, since that servo arm drives both wires. I detect a slight bend in the wire going to the nose wheel. Can anyone confirm whether it should be there, or is that part of the accident? The bend is right at the front of the bottom hatch, and not nearly enough to cause the offset I see in the wheel. There appears to be no problem with the wish bone suspension, and the shaft the gear is mounted on is not bent. How can I get access to the servo screws that clamp the control wires? Taking this thing apart is a bit of a mystery.

The nose cone and prop were loose after the impact. I removed both and the shaft is not bend. They both reinstall straight and tight. I'm not sure, but it looks like there is a little more gap between the back spacer and the nose, but I don't remember exactly what that gap was before it happened. The proble now is, both with and without the prop, there is a vibration in the motor when it runs. It appears to turn just as freely as it did before the incident, but under power vibrates badly. There is no binding. I'm wondering if something in the ESC might be bad, or did I screw the motor? Ideas?

I've removed the nose cone, and that wasn't nearly as easy as the manual led me to believe it would be. They say to cut the decals and slip it off. No way. It was stuck on there with something, possibly glue.

I'm just sick that this happened to the plane before I ever got to fly it, something I've wanted to do nine tenths of my life or more! I want to repair it and get on with it.
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Old Aug 08, 2010, 08:29 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
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There is a much more active discussion of this plane in the thread shown below. The issue with the nose wheel rotating was addressed somewhere near the middle of the thread. I haven't had a problem with it and I'm not sure exactly what needs to be done to yours.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=945874

If the motor is vibrating badly with no prop or spinner installed, it most likely has a bent shaft. The bend can occur near the rear of the shaft and not be immediately apparent. Replacement motors are available from several sources and are not very expensive. These are also discussed in the above mentioned thread.

Don't get discouraged! You can repair the plane. The learning process results in lots of similar mishaps and you will soon learn how to overcome them.

If you don't like the idea of learning by trial-and-error, you should consider the purchase of a simulator. Basic orientation and control skills can be built this way and it is fairly easy to transition to real flight with minimal plane damage.
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Old Aug 08, 2010, 08:56 AM
Western Nebraska
Joined Aug 2010
4 Posts
Thanks for the pointer to the thread. I'll go over there. The motor shaft really looks straight. When it spins, there isn't a hint of movement, other than rotation. Thanks again.
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Old Aug 08, 2010, 09:12 AM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
1,737 Posts
Humm. Don't understand the motor issue, then. Is the motor bell running true? No wobble? Are the grub screws on the bell tight against the shaft? Maybe a magnet was knocked loose and is causing the imbalance.

You are right about the cowl. It's secured with some sort of rubber or silicone cement that requires a good deal of coaxing to remove.
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Old Aug 11, 2010, 05:15 PM
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Joined Oct 2009
12 Posts
Hi absolutenewbie
Cessna 182 was my first plane.
After the first flight my trainer detect a problem with the motor mount.
This mount is made with plastic and in my case was broken.
You need to remove the cowl and after this check you can glue with light glue (liquid silicone) not CA Foam Safe.
We build a new mount using a piece of aluminium and plywood.
The second change was a reinforce the back support of the nose gear with plywood too because after a hard landing it moves.
The nose gear is not hard enough you must take care of this.

Good flights
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 06:10 PM
Western Nebraska
Joined Aug 2010
4 Posts
Sorry, guys. I haven't been back here since the other link was posted. I believe in reading the archives, and have been doing that when I have time, a few pages a night. I've learned lots over there, but still have about 300 posts to go to get to the end of it (1800 plus).

I was able to get some ideas as soon as I started reading that thread and fixed the misalignment with no problem. Glad I did, because the person who put this thing together didn't get everything tight. It was slippage in the servero linkage that caused the nose wheel to be misaligned on such a gentle hit. The motor vibration never did get resolved completely, but I was able to get it down to a pretty decent level and wasn't afraid to fly it.

By the way, removing the shaft from this motor was an absolute PIA. With both screws removed, and putting it on a homebrew jig to hold the bell, I couldn't knock the shaft loose. I finally got it out by using circuit cooler on it several times to shrink the metal. I still had to use a real hammer on it to get it to budge and drove it out with another rod when it got into the bell. It was very tight. It went back in the same way. If all of the new motors are this way, they won't be very repairable. Removing the shaft and rolling it on a hard table showed no problem anyway.

I got the nerve up and did a maiden flight last night. I was more scared during that than when my instructor jumped out in the middle of the runway and told me to take it around once on my first solo in a real plane. I just didn't handle the RC version very well at all. First flight - landed safely. Second - not so much. More repairs. I'm wondering if I should go back to just watching , instead of flying .

A new motor should be here in a few days anyway, and I might just need it. She's vibrating again, and has a visible wobble. The nose gear really took it in the shorts this time. Not sure what I'll do about that. May just "freeze" it.

I think there is a CG problem with this one. I checked it, but by the way it flew, I think it may be way heavy in the tail. I'm going to lean to the nose next time. I also don't like the way the battery isn't gripped tightly. It doesn't move much, but the battery and the hole don't match shape, so there is some possibility for side to side movement, even with the velcro strap in place.

To be continued...
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Old Aug 14, 2010, 06:43 PM
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Zaurak3's Avatar
Nebraska USA
Joined Mar 2008
1,450 Posts
Congrats on the successful maiden! For a very first RC attempt, that is definitely an achievement! There's an old saying here - `a nose-heavy model flies poorly, but a tail-heavy model flies once', so you did well if the CG was aft where it should be (for first flights, error on the nose heavy side...). Also, double check the motor thrust angle, as it can cause similar problems.

Any video or photos of the historic maiden?

~R
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 11:08 AM
Takeoff=Option Landing=Must
robusp's Avatar
USA, NY, Depew
Joined Jan 2009
818 Posts
I got it in 4 days from http://secure.hobbyzone.com/greatpla.../hcaa2525.html
Simply awesome! (great price too, when you go to checkout is only 129 shipped)
I had it ready in couple of hours.
Next morning: fri was the maiden.
Plane flew just great. This is my second cessna. First was smaller one SkyArTec from Hobby King about week ago. What a difference!
I will fly them both, but I can tel,l I will go out of my way to fly Flyzone one.
It looks like the real thing. Handles good too. I didn't figure how much time I get out of my turnigy 2200mAh, but it looks like at least 15-20 minutes.
Takes a little to get used to taxiing. I have to take a look at the front steering setup. Should be able to make it less touchy
I know I should read all the posts. Somebody probably already figure it out.
At first I had the lights on, but I couldn't even tell they were on.
They might become handy flying when is a little darker. I'll try them then.
My came with 1400kv and 25A speed control.
I added BEC and rx.
I tried, but didn't use the flaps for landing. Thats next.
Too bad, I am on business trip for next couple of weeks.
Rob
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 02:04 PM
dbc
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United States, FL, Brooksville
Joined Apr 2008
1,737 Posts
I've gotten over 45 flights on mine and I'm liking it more and more.

The nice thing about the flaps is that they are totally optional. If you want to fly it 4 channel, it has no problem with that. Simply requires a shallower approach and lands just a little faster. Flaps add realism and allow steeper approach but, either way, the plane behaves nicely.

I would suggest to anyone who wants a little more power - try a GWS 9x5 DD prop. This draws about 15% more power and results in noticably improved performance. I've had one on mine for over 30 flights with no problems overheating the motor or ESC.

Newbie: Place a piece of velcro on the floor of the battery compartment and one on the bottom of the battery to secure it. The velcro strap in not sufficient to retain the battery. I use it only for backup.

This Cessna looks so realistic in the air it's easy to believe you're seeing the real thing from a distance.
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Last edited by dbc; Aug 15, 2010 at 02:09 PM.
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Old Sep 05, 2010, 04:13 PM
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Joined Jul 2009
54 Posts
I had a similar problem with attaching the wing...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 325FGP View Post
If this has been covered already my apologies, but has anyone had issues with attaching the wing? I've pushed on the bolt as hard as I thought I dared and it doesn't go far enough into the hole to turn.
325FGP, I had the same issue. What I did was remove the foam disk from the wing bolt and it allowed for the bolt to engage the attachment points in the fuselage as indicated in the instructions.

Also be sure to check the clip that holds the tail on after each flight to be sure it doesn't work loose. I found that the clip had partially worked loose after my second flight. I used some double-sided clear tape positioned inside the clip to make it grip more tightly. I will let you know how this fix works. If the tape fails, I will likely Gorilla glue the tail posts into the fuselage to ensure that the tail doesn't loosen up again.
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