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Old Mar 05, 2009, 06:19 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
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Ray: From what I have been told, there is a lot of documentation work being done. (Initial doc, translations, etc)

Chris: LOL

I am talking to LAheli about this right now... Sounds like they may take this up as a side project right now...
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Old Mar 05, 2009, 07:01 PM
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Montgomery, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwkpete
You should have gotten a Protos while waiting, then you wouldn't have that weight problem

Yep, I'm not that far from you... Road trip distance!
The Align bird is strictly a easy support bird, I have one in each size class.. It's a discontinued / support safe guard that I'm doing now since the demise of 3 of my other helis, favorites I might add.. All the while I still have support for my Align helis.. So it really wasn't a numbers game, I'll wait for my Sniper..

Oh yeah and Chris tried his best.. lol.
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Old Mar 06, 2009, 02:01 PM
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Jacksonville, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni Day
what is the ID on those blade grips where the blade is held in? Wondering how they will work with the CF tail blades? Did you have to change the original pitch arm also?

About 1.65 - 1.75mm
Nope, I just screwed the ricco brass tube into the trex slider assembly.
I may file down the insides of the grips and be done with it, that way I dont ever have to mess with the tail blades if I break a set.
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Old Mar 08, 2009, 03:14 PM
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I've just got my Ricco together. I'm having issues with the tail. Part Y0207 (solid core brass) keeps coming unscrewed from part Y0206 (slider). I didn't see any "blue dot" in the manual to indicate that it should be CA'ed in, but I think maybe it's needed. I haven't glued it yet as I might be misinterpreting something.

Also, when I move the tail slider via the pushrod, when not connected to the servo, it is very smooth. When I have it hooked up to a servo, it seems to slow down near the center of the slider range. I think the linkage doesn't like the angle change of my servo horn range too much.

I've tried changing the clasp position in a few holes in my servo horn as well as rotating the servo around the boom and seeing if that helps. I think the clasp being glued into position in the CF pushrod means it can't adjust to the servo horn movement and maybe a ball link would be better here, as I use on several other helis.

One more thing, when I got to the part of the build where I had to install the tail blade pins (part Y0211), I was disappointed in the design. It just seemed cheap to me. Even if it's light, I don't like it.
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Old Mar 08, 2009, 03:24 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
Joined Mar 2002
4,611 Posts
Yeah, back in the day (original pages of the Maxir construction thread) I complained about the pins... But kinda changed my mind, they definitely work and rarely need to be swapped out. You just need to get the pins installed in the grip - apply pressure to seat them completely in the slider and then add on that drop of CA.

Just in case: The tail rotation should not unscrew the slider (it should tighten if anything) and the pins should be leading the blades...

CA or blue locktite helps with the slider core if it's loose.

Re slider movement - is the pin catching? If it's free with manual movement, there shouldn't be anything different when connected to the servo...
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Old Mar 08, 2009, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubbs
I was disappointed in the design. It just seemed cheap to me. Even if it's light, I don't like it.
Your opinion might not like it or be used to that design, but it works. Never has caused a problem with my MaxiR.
Tom
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Old Mar 08, 2009, 06:45 PM
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Yeah, there are just too many overwhelmingly positive reviews of the heli (part of the reason I got it ) so I guess it's something I'm just not used to. I'm glad to know you've had good luck with it. I'll leave it as-is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tamej
Your opinion might not like it or be used to that design, but it works. Never has caused a problem with my MaxiR.
Tom
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Old Mar 08, 2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubbs
Yeah, there are just too many overwhelmingly positive reviews of the heli (part of the reason I got it ) so I guess it's something I'm just not used to. I'm glad to know you've had good luck with it. I'll leave it as-is.
The pin design had me looking to mod or grab parts off my Hornet, nobody in the threads seem to be having issues with the pins so I just ignored my initial worries, I haven't had any issues since the build.

The only thing I can say is that the the design and the human element of the build could pose potential tracking issues with the tail blades due to not getting each pin identically set.

It is also worth noting that LA Heli has been evolving the design in general compared to other helis I have built you really have to pick hard for flaws in the design and LA Heli is receptive to it's customer base.
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Old Mar 09, 2009, 02:03 AM
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Well, I got everything together and it flies nicely! Thanks, guys!
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Old Mar 09, 2009, 10:01 AM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
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Excellent!!!

How about some pics?!
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 03:36 PM
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Hi, Pete!

Here you go. This is my "hybrid" Ricco SE.

Specs:
3x Futaba S3114 cyclic servos
1x Futaba S3154 digital tail servo
Logictech 2100T gyro
Turnigy 1650KV motor
18T pinion
LAHeli plastic main blades
Stock Ricco SE tail blades and paddles
CC Phoenix 25 (all I had at the time)
Various 3s LiPos from 1000mAh to 1300mAh

I originally broke one of the skid supports while trying to push the skid into them. It was a tight fit, I didn't want to be patient, and well.. I had to come up with an idea until a replacement part arrived. I stole some skids off of my ESky King 2. They are a bit beefier than the Ricco skids, and obviously heavier. They have a springiness to them, which is kinda nice for impromptu landings.

We've had some fairly strong winds so I decided to go with the plastic blades over the stock CF ones. I left the stock paddles and tail blades on, though.

To mount the Futaba S3114 servos, I had to use some random washers in my parts box and used the tapping screws instead of the machine screws. It actually was pretty easy to install them. I don't know if the linkage geometry is quite right, though.

I also am in the process of airbrushing the canopy, so I'll take some pics with it after that's done.

This is my first heli using a Logictech 2100T gyro, not my usual GY401 configuration. The 2100T was easy to setup and it behaves the same as my trusty GY401, but it is smaller and lighter. Good choice!

I've flown it for 10 packs so far, it's a fun heli!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwkpete
Excellent!!!

How about some pics?!
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 04:06 PM
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Jacksonville, Florida
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Nice, but with 3S and the motor up front is it not very nose heavy?
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 04:11 PM
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It's not VERY nose heavy, but you are right.. I have it trimmed back a bit. I guess I just followed some of the other photos of other Riccos I found on the net and copied the motor placement. Some of my other helis were always tail heavy, so much so that I had to extend the battery mount to push the battery out further forward! And that was with the motor to the front of the main shaft too. Given that the motor is so easy to remove and install, I may try moving it to the back.

You mention 3s.. do you fly with 2s? Maybe I could go to a higher KV and go 2s? That'd be kinda neat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rotaryguy
Nice, but with 3S and the motor up front is it not very nose heavy?
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 04:17 PM
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I am flying 3S -1300's W/ Axi 2208/20 installed to the rear and even that is just a tad nose heavy. I have another rudder servo on order thats heavier and should give me a perfect balance.
I will post a few pics...
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Old Mar 16, 2009, 04:20 PM
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Jacksonville, Florida
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I meant to add that for indoor flying 2S would be fun but in my opinion even on 3S its so light outdoor flying would get a little more challenging if there is much wind.
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