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Old Jul 27, 2009, 09:42 AM
Heli Hooligan
London
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I keep my ESC infront of the motor between the 2 CF rods.
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 09:45 AM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
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I just like the aesthetics of it being hidden, I'm funny that way
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 10:04 AM
Heli Hooligan
London
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Thats one of the reasons I didn't put it down on the CF plate. Up between the 2 CF rods it's not that visible and the wires cabletie neatly.
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 10:06 AM
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Hehe, I'm back into "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" mode now, she fly's great now that I've admitted I was wrong about swash leveler tools and taken my ten lashes for being a tard (yes, I used to think swash leveler tools were for pansies, but realized that I should at least try one).

So... I bought a Gaui swash leveling tool from Lee before the funfly and modded it to work with my Maxirs. Tuning out the swash interactions is now a snap, and even slightly tail heavy, my blue Maxir will do continuous rolls in the wind, with zero rudder/elevator corrections (the heli looks like it's suspended on bearings on the tail boom, it rolls that freaking true). Seriously, in 5mph winds I counted 9 rolls before I had to make a correction, I couldn't believe it myself.

She flys great, ESC and battery come down only lukewarm (unfortunately motor gets pretty warm now, so I allow it to cool down between flights). I was chasing my tail trying to get perfect flight characteristics (thinking it was lateral and fore/aft CG) but now that I have fessed up that I was being obstinant about swash leveler tools, there really isn't anything that I should be messing with (other than getting a better gyro onto the heli).

-Kai

P.S. It ends up that I was actually very close to true swash, with the tool I only had to tweak travels by about 2pts (but I guess that was all it took to induce a bit of skew on cyclic that I would notice and try to correct for in flight).
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai_Shiden
So... I bought a Gaui swash leveling tool from Lee before the funfly and modded it to work with my Maxirs. Tuning out the swash interactions is now a snap, and even slightly tail heavy, my blue Maxir will do continuous rolls in the wind, with zero rudder/elevator corrections (the heli looks like it's suspended on bearings on the tail boom, it rolls that freaking true). Seriously, in 5mph winds I counted 9 rolls before I had to make a correction, I couldn't believe it myself.
What did it take to make it work with the Maxir? I don't even know how to use a swash leveler! I've always tried to hone my eyeballing abilities (which probably aren't too great anyway.)

Signed, Brian "I'd rather piro left instead"
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrbubbs
What did it take to make it work with the Maxir? I don't even know how to use a swash leveler! I've always tried to hone my eyeballing abilities (which probably aren't too great anyway.)

Signed, Brian "I'd rather piro left instead"
I glued small 1mm thick CF rectangles to the ends so that it would reach on a Maxir swash (stock it barely touched the insides of the lower swash arms).

I did make sure to test it at every angle, I rotated it 120deg, 3 times to check that I had the pads glued on level though, had to lightly sand one of the pads to get it perfect.

But now, correcting the geometry only takes a few minutes of subtrim/endpoint adjusting (I used to spend a lot of time tweaking in flight to get it to feel right).

Pete, I've found 4 different sets of FG with slightly angled holes, I won't bother to send them back because I have found I can correct it with just a few swipes of a small file. Sometimes the angle is very slight and difficult to notice, keep in mind that I am much pickier than many people.

Also, I do not deny that the blades can warp, I myself have experienced that many times and corrected them. I now check my blades for both warp and angled holes, and am quite happy with the performance improvements I'm experiencing as a result (reduced tracking issues, lower vibration, better wind stability, smoother flight in general).

I feel it doesn't take much time to check for both situations, so why not do so? It also doesn't take much time to correct either situation right on my workbench, far less time than it takes to static/dynamic balance them, so I've simply added those steps into my parts processing routine, not everyone has to choose to do them, I feel that it saves me hassle in the long run for something that only takes a minute to check for.

-Kai
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 02:08 PM
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Today was magical , windy this morning , windy right now, I brought the Ricco and Mini Titan for a little lunch time outing, it was pretty breezy so I counted on flying the Mini-T.

When I arrived at the park the winds died down to nothing and the leaves went limp, the heli gods allowed for 2 dead calm flights on the Ricco. Needless to say the Ricco flies so long that I ran out of time and had to take a rain check for the Mini-T..

I think I'm going to try to do some work on getting my hat-cam working, I really need to get some videos going of my fine machine.
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 02:53 PM
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Very cool Ray,

These little LAheli micros make the best parkflyers/yardflyers.

There were so many missed opportunities this funfly for getting video (I'm just stupid, I got offers from 5 different people to video my Maxir in action with my HD cam, yet I didn't take a one of them up on it).

I cut myself so short on sleep throughout the funfly, I didn't even think to shoot video when I had Weylin (Mini-Dub) fly my Maxir, he was doing his entire large heli 3D routine (600N flybarless) on my Maxir, but in about a 40'x30'x6' box (most everything down at 1ft off the deck ), in about 12mph gusting winds no less.

On the upside, one of the guys video'd Matt and I flying with his digicam (unfortunately locked zoom and only 640x480 video), if I had known he was going to be video'ing, I would have tossed him my camera, DOH .

MaxiRs @ CMHC Funfly 2009 (6 min 19 sec)

Downloadable version: http://www.nwheli.com/Videos/HeliVid...unfly-2009.wmv (40MB)

-Kai
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 03:22 PM
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Thank you for posting the video Kai, looks like you guys were having one heck of a good time out there.
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 06:43 PM
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Kai I need your help on that one!

Yeahhhhh Baby, this little SE have juice!!

Hey Kai, I still run on the CSM 560 Gyro with my maxir SE. I have the rev 3 version on the csm and didn't change the parameters so far. I also have the 3154s futaba digital on tail. The holding of the tail is way far from what I can see in your video. I read all your recent posts (last 2 months). Enough to understand that the 3154 don't hold and make tail blowout. This is exactly what it does with me...getting really hot and tail blow out even at slow backward. At first I tought it was the gyro, but now I will kick this 3154 out! I have tons of questions for you but I will focus and only ask you 2 question so your answer won't be too long for you.

1- Should I replace the 3154 with the hyperion DS 11 GCB or with another servo? I saw you put this on your elcheeperino maxir, but not shure you are using it with your 2 top of the line SE.

2-Have you ever tried the csm 560 rev 3? I run my maxir with a cc25 + 2208-20 with 15t pignon. The batteries I'm using are not as good as your g3. My speed should be around 1600 RPM. I saw you post on your csm 560 rev 4 parameters. Acceleration gain, conventionnal gain and Heading lock gain all at 65. Are you still use those parameters with you new 3s setup? If I put all those setup in my rev3, will it be exactly as you rev4 or there is buil in parameters inside the gyro that I can not change myself with the cable. If there is some buil in parameters, does it worth to send it back to CSM and upgrade to rev4?

Oh yeah, I use fiberglass blades, maxir plastic 3d paddle and jst tail blades.

I have other questions, but I will resist....what the hell, what is that 1/4 fuel tubing you use to replace the dampers...

OK I will save the other questions for later

By the way, GREAT job you do with the maxir...both pilot and engineering

Pat
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 07:04 PM
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Hi Probicha,

1. Yup, ditch the S3154 on the tail, the Hyperion DS11-GCB is the best tail servo I've found for the Maxirs, head and shoulders above the rest (my cheapie I'm using my previous Robbe FS61, but my two SE's are using the DS11).

2. I've never used the Rev3 software, so I'm not sure how the settings translate, I'm no longer running 65 across the board, I tweaked till I got in the ballpark then stopped recently (I've had 2 of my SL560's go bad, I'm presuming from crash damage), and I plan on going to either GY520's or Spartans, so I decided to stop wasting time tuning gyros that I don't even plan on sticking with (I've got them close enough for decent speed backwards, and called that good enough, LOL).

FG mains, plastic 3D paddles, J2s tail blades and a Suppo 2208-12 is what I've currently got on the "cheapie" Maxir, I forgot to get any video of it at the funfly though. It's VERY capable though, tail holds well even with the cheapie G90/Telebee, soon to be GY401B and Turnigy 1900, not screaming hard 3D but it's very respectable (people's jaws dropped when I showed them that it does piroflips just fine on cheap components).

1/4" fuel tubing cut to 6mm lengths for dampers (just let them squish out a little bit during assembly, then cut the excess off with an exacto so that they don't interfere with the grips).

Even that video wasn't full tilt hard flying, I have to concentrate harder for that (with the plane flying round, nitros burning all around us, I had to make sure to keep my situational awareness level up).

Admittedly, I tried going to a PHX-25, but simply wasn't able to get the same flight power out of it as my Spin-11 (really odd since both were drawing the same amount of energy out of the packs per 6min flight ). I tried many different settings and firmwares with the PHX-25 but finally gave up, threw another Spin-11 back in, and immediately had my powerhouse back (I'm presuming that maybe I have a bad PHX-25, but I've only got one to work with, the only other PHX controllers I have are 10s and 45s).

-Kai
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raynet11
Thank you for posting the video Kai, looks like you guys were having one heck of a good time out there.
LOL, a chance to show off... I'm never going to pass that by.... .

We were definetly having a blast, to me flying with friends is where the fun is at, I love an opportunity to fly at the same time as my buddies (that way we double up our flying time, and our socalizing time between flights , not only is it more efficent, I personally think it's more fun and entertaining to watch).

Someday I think it would be a blast to put on a good tandem routine, with crazy stuff like a heli piro-looping around a heli doing fast piroflips. I could never imagine risking the damage with big helis, but with Maxirs/Riccos I would be more than willing to try (over grass of course).

On the upside, Matt runs Ricco prepainted canopies on his Maxirs, so at least that part fits this thread .

-Kai
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 09:27 PM
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Speaking of canopies (great segue) I copied Kai's neato canopy wire-thingy to replace the fussy little "tongue" thing I put in the lower frame to engage the canopy bottom and keep it from rotating up. Here's his video about it:

Maxir Custom Canopy Bracket (0 min 54 sec)


And here's my version:





It works great, and it only took me three tries to bend one to the right shape.

-Chris
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 09:35 PM
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Thanks a lot Kai for the quick answer...

It might give you a smile, but I have bought this csm 560 in 2007 because of your 4s indoor videos...remember with the quick stick jiggle...anyway, Back then I bought the rev 3 version as people wrote that the rev4 was not suitable for the little electric helicopters...therefore CSM they came out with the 420 rev4e for small electrics. I guess the rev4e is with the based rev4 parameters like your 560, but with the heading hold gain down to 26 and the acceleration to 120 and up. If perhaps you have a print screen of the defaults parameters of the rev 4, I would try to do that setup with my 560.

I love my Maxir, but so far I have two negative comment about it. The first one is the tail authority. I was never able to have a rock solid tail. I measured the pitch range and can only have 25 degrees on both side. You post that you can reach up to 40 degrees with yours?? There is a side where I can't go over 25 as the slider touch the gear box. On the other side, I can have higher pitch, however the servo have to push too much and I'm afraid to break that already overheated poor 3154s (The push rod is bending). Yes those are good measures I'm not kidding. I have to say that this tail mechanism comes from a 2005 basic kit. I have bought a SE kit later and upgraded imy base kit after each crash. The tail mechanisms is still original as I never replaced those parts.

The seccond negative point about this helicopter is that it's hard to see it when it's far. I normally place myself in a soccer field and this thing is so quick and hard to see when it's behind the goal. I have to get it back mostly by feeling. I don't need glasses for car driving but when I fly that thing I HAVE to put them. My two last crash were due to a low turn a little too far. Put a little too much side collective and when I saw that it was too angled for the speed, Bang. Yes this is my problem... I fly too far and too low and see like sh&?%$ lol

I tought it was your same reflection when you told us that the Sniper was you new favorite helicopter. It's more powerfull, stable, more visibility...yes the batteries cost more but with two g3 6s that you can charge in 12min at 5C, it's 200$ and you can fly it all day. I mean why you still stick with those maxir? I guess the answer is in your last post (perfect for pack flying of backward). Because of that, I have bought a Protos 500. It will cost about the same price as the maxir to crash. In fact, with the 430mm carbon blades on ebay for 23$US shipped it will be cheaper to crash than my maxir

I really don't want to give up on the maxir until it work well. So because of my lack of time and lack of experienced pilots around my city (isolated in north of quebec), I did a strange moove (but not so strange... ohhhh my girlfriend is going to be mad). I have bought two complete Maxir SE last week from a guy in california (it's a blue and a red one...what a deal for 500$US with spares parts). I will have the perfect platform to experiment the maxir and finally make my maxir work like it deserve it. I will have three different setup. One 2208-20, one 2212-12 and a stock one with 2208-26. I will put all three with hyperion servos. As I will have different gyro, paddle, tail fins, blades and so on, it will be really easy to see what is the problem of my current maxir and experiment three times faster. Yeah Baby.

Oh yeah, what is your park Bec you are using. I use the newer cc version with the 3 amp BEC (yes I know it's not 3amp on 3s). I have hs55 servos on cyclic and 3154s on tail and never had problems. Maybe it's a question of time when I will push it harder someday.

My biggest problem is that I live in Saguenay (Quebec-Canada) and the club helicopter teacher can not master his nose in hover...yeah it's sad. So I just stay away from those guys who just talk about specs all day and hover their 2000$ nitro helicopters and tell how their gyro are super fast... Those guys wear futaba sponsored gear...I love this hobby so much, but I just wish I could fly with decent buddys.

Anyway...thanks again, I feel a little better now hahahahah

Pat
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Old Jul 28, 2009, 09:49 PM
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Sure, I always take screenshots of my settings any time I try new ones, attached is the current settings that I run in both of my MaxiR SEs (and 45% gain from the TX).

I don't know how to answer your pitch range problem, I can't see how a Maxir would hold with the 1600rpm headspeed you quoted (I keep assuming you mean 2600, but I figure we should check to be sure), let alone only 25deg tail pitch each way. I'm running >2700rpm headspeed and +50/-43 tail pitch.

Please post pictures of your tail at full deflection (and both the tail hub/shaft and where the shaft is on the other side of the tail box), hopefully we'll be able to see what's wrong.

-Kai
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