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Old Apr 26, 2009, 06:48 PM
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If you still have it, I might be interested in it for my Ricco. I had to pull a Phoenix 25 off a bigger heli to equip my Ricco so I think having a lighter ESC would be nice and I'd get my other heli running. Well, hmm.. 12g vs. 17g...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwkpete
If anyone is looking for a nice motor/ESC setup, I have a nice Spin 11/AXI 1108/26/SpinBOX) available. (I would make it a sweet deal with a kit or for an existing Maxir/Ricco owner)
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Old Apr 26, 2009, 08:20 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
Joined Mar 2002
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Yep, I still have it, drop me an email.

It's a nice ESC with excellent switching BEC...
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Old May 11, 2009, 09:29 PM
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My new toys are here for the Ricco.. A HG-D201HB from GotHeliRC and a sweet looking canopy and a set of 1300's to replace a few of my other packs that have grown tired from ElektroRC (thanks guys..). Looks like it's going to be a great season with the Ricco, a sweet looking Ricco I might add... Pics to follow after I'm done tooling around..
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Old May 13, 2009, 06:47 PM
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United States, PA, Plymouth Meeting
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I've been running into a problem with my Ricco, hope someone can help. The last two times I've flown it have each ended up in a crash. I spool it up, hear a kind of scraping sound, especially when it is inverted, and then the tail drive gear that meshes with the main gear strips. Am I setting it too tight against the main gear?


Also, is there a way to make this heli a little more stable? Does the choice in cyclic servos make a difference? I'm currently running hs55s which seem pretty decent, though a little on the soft side.
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Old May 13, 2009, 06:56 PM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
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I suspect the main shaft collar is either slipping or there is slop. Sounds like you flip it over and crows/conical mesh goes out...
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Old May 13, 2009, 07:24 PM
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Which paddles are you using? The carbon 3D paddles will be least stable but most lively. The plastic 3D paddles are a lot more stable but the cyclics are quite a bit slower. You can add wheel collars to the flybar to make it even more stable.

The fiberglass blades seem a little more stable than the CF blades, but again with slower cyclics. The plastic blades should be a heck of a lot more stable but ive never tried them.
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Old May 13, 2009, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwkpete
I suspect the main shaft collar is either slipping or there is slop. Sounds like you flip it over and crows/conical mesh goes out...

So it is too loose then. I'll check that. Is it ok to be more snug to the point that it shows a little friction or should it be free of friction? One thing I noticed was the carbon tail drive rod was pushing out of the end of the tail gear and rubbing against the spacer in the tail assembly. I'm starting to think it's probably that as well.
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Old May 13, 2009, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornet_dave
Which paddles are you using? The carbon 3D paddles will be least stable but most lively. The plastic 3D paddles are a lot more stable but the cyclics are quite a bit slower. You can add wheel collars to the flybar to make it even more stable.

The fiberglass blades seem a little more stable than the CF blades, but again with slower cyclics. The plastic blades should be a heck of a lot more stable but ive never tried them.
I'm using the paddles that came with it, I believe they are the 3D paddles (very light, they have slots cut into them which are covered by stickers). Also, main blades are FG. For some reason it tips, say to the right, in a hover, then I straighten it out and it starts tipping in another direction. I can't just hold it in a hover without it starting to drift (tip).
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Old May 14, 2009, 01:47 AM
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It's best to be on the side of snug with some friction and absolutely no gear lash. Any lash will lead to striping as the pinion gear wears in.

A far as the drift and over-reaction you're encountering, it sounds like there is some head hysteresis from sticky or tight ball links. These tight links prevent the swash / head assembly from centering, and you end up making constant corrections back and forth to maintain a hover. Make sure the head is free by working the links, and if necessary squeezing the ball-links with pliers to free up the motion.
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Old May 14, 2009, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RotorCycle
It's best to be on the side of snug with some friction and absolutely no gear lash. Any lash will lead to striping as the pinion gear wears in.

A far as the drift and over-reaction you're encountering, it sounds like there is some head hysteresis from sticky or tight ball links. These tight links prevent the swash / head assembly from centering, and you end up making constant corrections back and forth to maintain a hover. Make sure the head is free by working the links, and if necessary squeezing the ball-links with pliers to free up the motion.

I'll do that. I guess you don't want to make it over-snug since then in crashes the carbon tail drive rod seems to bend near the bearing at the front and so has to be replaced? At least that's been my experience so far which is why I had set it freely with no friction.

Ball links in the rotor head on my Ricco are pretty tight--they've actually loosened up quite a bit from wear. I was wondering, is there a re-sizing tool that fits Ricco links? My JR resizing tool is too big.
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Old May 14, 2009, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akshaw
Ball links in the rotor head on my Ricco are pretty tight--they've actually loosened up quite a bit from wear. I was wondering, is there a re-sizing tool that fits Ricco links? My JR resizing tool is too big.
That would be good to know, I just let mine "wear in", last time I had the servo pins out the head and links all felt a lot smoother then it did at build time. I had a similar situation with my Mini Titan, didn't have the tool so I just flew the head loose, not the best option but they all go from to tight to just right to sloppy over time.
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Old May 15, 2009, 12:54 PM
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happened again

This time there was no lash between gears, and they all ran smoothly. Flew around for awhile then went inverted and that was ok. Then I started doing flips, heard that scaping sound and before I knew it the heli was tumbling to the ground. Same thing, the pinion that meshes with the main gear stripped. It got me wondering, how sensitive is this gear to slight bends in the tail boom? If there was an ever so light bend in the tail boom I'm guessing that might cause too much vibration at the ends (the pinion). Before all this happened my tail boom did have a slight bend in it, but I had straightened it out by hand. Could this be the cause???
BTW, I love how this thing flips. Very light and stable--it's fun to flip! Now if I could just get to that a little more often...
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Old May 15, 2009, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akshaw
This time there was no lash between gears, and they all ran smoothly. Flew around for awhile then went inverted and that was ok. Then I started doing flips, heard that scaping sound and before I knew it the heli was tumbling to the ground. Same thing, the pinion that meshes with the main gear stripped. It got me wondering, how sensitive is this gear to slight bends in the tail boom? If there was an ever so light bend in the tail boom I'm guessing that might cause too much vibration at the ends (the pinion). Before all this happened my tail boom did have a slight bend in it, but I had straightened it out by hand. Could this be the cause???
BTW, I love how this thing flips. Very light and stable--it's fun to flip! Now if I could just get to that a little more often...
How far engaged is the conical to the maingear? if you have to keep the boom "backed out" for good engagement then the spacer between your maingear frame might need to be a tad thicker (the further you get from having the conical shoulder against the maingear, the weaker the teeth are).

I hope that all made sense , busy here at work so had to keep it short.

-Kai
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Old May 15, 2009, 03:51 PM
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Thanks Kai. It has been completely engaged from what I can tell. Maybe the boom is slipping a little? I shouldn't have to use glue or locktite anywhere should I? It only seems to happen during manuevers that would put stress on the tail boom, either inverted punchouts or flipping...
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Old May 15, 2009, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akshaw
Thanks Kai. It has been completely engaged from what I can tell. Maybe the boom is slipping a little? I shouldn't have to use glue or locktite anywhere should I? It only seems to happen during manuevers that would put stress on the tail boom, either inverted punchouts or flipping...
That's good, I also forgot to mention to make sure that the conical is "almost" perfectly seated against the front boom block's bearing (want it friction free, but yet no visible gap to the bearing). If there is a gap, the CF rod can flex right at the bearing allowing the conical to push away from the maingear.

When building my Maxirs, I add an extra bearing and cup inside the boom that's only about 2" away from that front bearing, the reason I do this is that it makes the shaft more rigid against the shaft tip flexing (in reality, it's the shaft flexing between the bearings that allows the angle to change at the gear).

The only other possibility I can think of, is if one of the two bearing blocks isn't tightened down all the way. In that case it would most likely be the front one able to move up and down under acceleration load (if it were the rear one, the boom would rotate in flight and you would notice that).

If you don't feel you can get a tight enough fit on the screws of the front block, you can drill out the front block and use a longer (M2x12) and an M2 nylock to get it locked into place (if you choose to go that route, you do not even need to drill out the hole, you can run the M2 through with a driver, then keep spinning it till it tears out enough plastic, or even just thread it through then tighten the nut on the other side).

-Kai
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