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Old Dec 22, 2009, 05:33 PM
Crazy Heli Technogeek
Kai_Shiden's Avatar
USA, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2004
4,205 Posts
I think it's just the press tolerance, I used to put a small cardboard gasket between the oneway halves, but haven't had to do that in quite a while (I like the assembly to be nice and tight so that I don't worry about the maingear shifting the conical mesh).

-Kai
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Old Dec 22, 2009, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Seattle, WA
Joined Oct 2005
117 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fight1 View Post
Getting the pin into the sleeve was also less than fun..
f
After struggling with this same issue on my first build, and later trying to replace my first main gear, I went out and found a good quality 1mm drill bit, which I gently use to size the holes for the pins, being careful not to remove too much material. After testing the size for a good fit with the pin, I reinsert the drill bit to get everything lined up, then use the pin to push the drill bit out. It's way easier for me having a 2" bit to work with to get things together first...

This has removed the fear and dread of the pins in the main shaft for me; I own 2 of the drill bits as I won't tackle this task without them.

On the one-way, as long as you have assembled everything OK, it should loosen up. I had the same case of nerves on my first build about it, but it all worked out fine.

BTW - your parenting skills sound quite up to par for a heli addict...

Have fun with the build.

Matt
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Old Dec 22, 2009, 06:01 PM
Thermals the path to elevation
RotorCycle's Avatar
United States, AZ, Chandler
Joined Jul 2004
3,265 Posts
That's a good idea with the 1mm drill bit Matt. I started using a needle after spending a few minutes trying to line up the holes in both sides of the Y1553. They must be perrrrfectly aligned.

I've had some one-way's that spun freely before ever spooling up, and others took a month or so to loosen up to the point of a nice free-wheel effect. Hold the main gear and spin the head CCW for a few minutes to see if it beds in and starts to free up.
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Old Dec 22, 2009, 07:13 PM
Registered User
Seattle, WA
Joined Oct 2005
117 Posts
Thanks, Lee. I get one good idea a month; that must have been it. I also allow myself one dumb question a day, which is, (as Kai will attest), a quota I often exceed.

I may have spoken too hastily on the power of the Park 370 on 4s - I just dialed it up to 90% governed and it woke up the Maxir and took charge. It seemed to have overhead to spare and I find myself pretty happy with the results. Also managed to dial up the Tx gain on the GY520 to 24% with the J2S blades. Probably can push it further but it was holding fine and no bounce on tight right turns.

I got in my first three winter flights with it. It's funny how once you start 3D'ing in the cold, your hands still manage to sweat, even when it's freezing out. I wish I would have charged all my batteries after indoor last week...

Matt
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Old Dec 22, 2009, 07:58 PM
Crazy Heli Technogeek
Kai_Shiden's Avatar
USA, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2004
4,205 Posts
Hehe, don't feel too bad Matt, I went and swapped the steel driveshaft into the SE, then found that both my helis now have chipped conical segments on the maingears after their indoor crashes .

I don't have any spare maingears, so I stole the one from the flybarless MaxiR for now for the SE. So at least the SE is flying, although I've only gotten to front yard test it between rain squalls so far last weekend (it's dark when I head to work, and dark when I get home).

The tail seems to be holding much better, but I really won't know for sure how much till I get it to some open air (and to make matters worse, I started tinkering with gyro settings, governor settings, and tail geometry again since the rain was coming and going ).

I'm also trying to scrounge up the parts to put on chinese weights on the tail for testing, I found that I was using 150% endpoints to either side in the GY520 travel settings, so I ended up moving the ball joint out to the last hole on the DS11GCB's arm , the odd part is that I didn't have to back down the gain after doing so (my theory is that the speed reduction of being further in was limiting the tail performance). In fact, after moving it out on the arm the tail stops became cleaner and I was able to dial the response up a little bit more .

Now to get rate mode hover pitch, I'm at pretty oddly set endpoints, 146% in the negative pitch direction, and 70% on positive, but since altering the geometry offset the tail performance improved significantly. So long as I feather in the pitch swing a little bit, the tail stays rock solid, it will kick out 10deg or so if I slam it from full neg to full positive though (I may just back the pitch down some and see if I still like it), but honestly I don't expect any heli to really be able to handle a 30deg immediate collective transition without some tail movement (the pilot's gotta at least put in some effort to keep it under control ).

-Kai
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Old Dec 23, 2009, 06:52 PM
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Austin, TX
Joined Sep 2005
11,506 Posts
Nice stickers!

I got my spare parts order today (thanks Pete!) and there was a nice surprise inside: Some nifty ElektroRC stickers! Here's a picture of my Ricco canopy with a sticker in place. (Sorry for the poor quality, I shot it with my phone)

-Chris
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Old Dec 25, 2009, 06:25 AM
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Montgomery, IL
Joined Aug 2005
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Merry Christmas guys !!
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Old Dec 25, 2009, 11:49 AM
ElektroRC.com - MSH,LAHeli,YGE
Pewaukee, WI, USA
Joined Mar 2002
4,608 Posts
Merry Christmas to you Ray and everyone else too!
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Old Dec 25, 2009, 11:52 AM
Heli Hooligan
London
Joined Dec 2006
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Merry Christmas everyone
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Old Dec 25, 2009, 09:01 PM
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Montgomery, IL
Joined Aug 2005
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No LA Heli under the tree this year but then again I already have a Ricco and a Sniper ( I know what about a UFO?). Did land myself a Blade mSR, yep boring little FP but what a perfect edition to my indoor micro fleet (Blade mSR, mSX, Losi Micro-T truck). Hope you guys had a great Christmas as well..
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Old Dec 26, 2009, 07:29 AM
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Joined Dec 2008
68 Posts
Build trouble

Hi,
Almost done with the christmas build of my Ricco, but It's been a hassle. Well not all of it but some parts.
The tail gearboxhousing was not a smooth fit an needed quite a bit of sanding here and there, and one metal ring spacer, Y0427 was missing from the kit, found something similar in the parts bin, but it's got a slightliy larger OD so a bit worried how its gonna ride on the bearing.
Might have done something not quite right when putting the bearings into the tailboom aswell, the gear on the tail end is not spinning 100% true.

Also the collective mixer, Y0311, is defect, got a warped ball on one side so no Ricco maiden for me this christmas. Will probably order up a completly new tail to see if I can't get things better on the second go as well as a new mixer.

Santa had a tiny trex super combo in the bag, so I'll have something to play with untill I get the Ricco sorted.
Merry Christmas to you all.
F
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Old Dec 26, 2009, 04:02 PM
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Apr 2007
180 Posts
hi there fight1 . Sorry to hear about your build having a few hiccups. I have been putting my Ricco together over a few nights myself but fortunately i've been flying the maxir so i'm more familiar with this helis idiosyncrasies. the tail conicals often don't run 100% true in my experience sometimes i will try another one if it's really bad or slip it around a bit till i find a better mesh with it's mate. I have admiration for anyone who can get one of these tail cases running well as they are an art to put together.
Have fun with the Trex :-)
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Old Dec 26, 2009, 07:27 PM
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USA, IA, Cedar Rapids
Joined May 2003
917 Posts
lmao @ everyone and their one-way assemblies. I thought I was the only one.

after playing with every possible reason for the oneway to not spin freely when the lower bearing was tightened down, I found out the reason why mine would bind up when I tightened it. In my case, the oneway sleeve (on the mainshaft) was a little too long for the oneway bearing assembly. When I tightened down the lower bearing assembly, the sleeve would push against the radial bearings, and cause them to not spin freely. The easy fix was to shorten the sleeve a little at a time (using a caliper) until I could tighten the assembly without binding the radial bearings.
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 09:29 AM
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Joined Dec 2008
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As the ricco is serving as a hangar Queen now, I pulled of my first loop today with the 450 beater .
Hornet Daves solution is so obvious that there is no way I could have figuered it out my self
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Old Dec 28, 2009, 10:40 AM
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Montgomery, IL
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I remember screwing with my one way a bit during the build but all I remember was having to tighten and loosen the cap screws on the bottom plate a few times. I don't recall this being a sticking point on the build as much as the tailbox (evil tailbox at the time) was.

Since I'm snowed in did a semi rebuild on my head in prep for next season, replaced all the links on the head with new ones (it's tight again) and replaced the head dampeners. I still haven't scored a set of digital servos yet but there is plenty of time left before the weather breaks.
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