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Introduction
I have always been told not to judge a book by its cover, but every now and then, I come across a plane that just looks like fun. One such airplane is the new Glamour 3D available from Abell RC. The Glamour is an almost ready to fly laser cut kit that is trimmed in a really attractive yellow, white and blue cover scheme. The Glamour is a nitro aircraft from the kit, but with today's availability of larger electric motors, Clay at Abell RC asked me if I'd be willing to tackle it. With the Glamour’s looks, it was next to impossible for me to say no.
Kit Contents
The kit arrived in great shape with no damage. I took inventory of all the parts to ensure all parts were there, and everything that was supposed to be there was. Since this is an electric conversion, even though it is an ARF, there is still a small amount of building skill that is required. If one wishes to fly this on nitro power, it is a 100% traditional ARF with limited assembly required.
Kit includes:
Kit requires:
My kit also arrived with an EMP C5055/05 Brushless Electric Motor, Scanner 70 amp ESC, Scanner SSV-9766MG servos, an Desire Power 4S 4200 Lipo and some Xoar props, which are all available from Abell RC.
Assembly
The Glamour has a large amount of the work completed already. The kit is built up from laser cut light plywood and balsa and includes a very nice fiberglass canopy (that in this conversion works perfectly as a battery hatch) and is trimmed in a very eye-catching scheme.
The assembly of the Glamour is very straightforward - so much so that there are no real words of wisdom in the manual. In fact, except for a few points here and there, there are no words in the manual at all. The writers of the Glamour manual truly believe a picture is worth 1,000 words. I have to say, the build went together without a hitch, even without the words.
Fuselage & Tail
The fuselage is prepared for assembly first. The entire fuselage is covered, and servo mount location holes, horizontal stab and vertical stab locations must first be cut away. I used an X-Acto knife keyed into a soldering iron to cut away the plastic film covering.
Covering from the horizontal and vertical stabs must also be removed. Care must be taken here not to dig into the wood of the stabs so it won’t weaken the structures. I slid the horizontal stab into the slot and measured and marked for the cut and did the same with the vertical stab.
Once the stab’s covering has been removed, the stabs are installed into the fuselage. Pay close attention to the elevator assembly, and make sure it is installed through the horizontal stab slot before the horizontal stab. The elevator assembly is one piece and cannot be installed after the stab is in place. After the stab is installed and the glue has cured, the elevator can be hinged to the stab with the CA hinges included in the kit.
This is a good point in the build to install the tailwheel assembly and then the rudder. The instructions also call for the rudder and elevator servos to be installed and rigged at this time. I went ahead and installed the landing gear. The landing gear are a sturdy aluminum which install with socket head metal screws. I learned long ago that in model aircraft this size, breakable, cheap, nylon 1/4-20 bolts work wonders over the "rip-your-landing-gear-out-metal" screws: The bolts break, the gear come off and the bolts have to be replaced instead of the landing gear block.
Motor and Battery Tray
The firewall has the right and down thrust already built in, so in order to mount up the EMP motor I simply used the measurements in the instructions. The instructions give a measurement of 120mm for the back of the spinner to sit, so I made sure to mount my electric motor to keep the same spacing. I made the motor mount out of easy to find hardware from any local hardware store. The mount consists of nylon spacers, bolts and some nuts. I used 2 - 1" nylon spacers and some 2.5" bolts to mount the motors included X-mount to the firewall. The mount is simply nylon standoffs and some appropriate sized bolts with nuts. I also used some blind nuts to mount into the firewall.
Since this is an electric conversion, I also made a battery tray. I quickly saw where a battery tray would fit in the cavernous fuselage. I used scraps that I had laying around the shop to create the tray. In hindsight, I wish that I had thought about the location of the wing bolts. The wing is two pieces which are held on with wing bolts: The interaction betwixt my rather large hands, the battery bay and the nylon wing bolts is not always the easiest of endeavors.
Wing
The wing is a two piece wing joined with a fiberglass tube through the fuselage structure. There is a small "winglet" section that is permanently installed into the fuselage to bridge the gap between the fuselage and the ailerons. This section must be test fitted and trimmed in the same manner as the horizontal and vertical stabs. All that must be completed on the wings is to install the aileron, aileron servo and the side force generators. The generators are simply placed onto the wing to outline what part of the covering must be removed and then epoxied or CA'd into place.
Completion
With all the servos already installed, I installed a Spektrum AR7000 coupled with my Futaba 10C to control them. I am using a "friction" fit on the wheel pants that is working very, very well. The cowl was installed with 4 small screws that were screwed into the fuselage to secure the cowling. Once the last bits were installed, the CG had to be located. Even though it was a conversion, the CG was easily attained by moving the battery forward on the battery tray. I originally used the stock hardware for all linkages, however, on the initial flight I had one clevis break. Disaster was averted, but I decided to supplement my own gear on the build. I have always made up carbon pushrods using carbon rod and some 4-40 rod. The process is very simple, and if you think you might like to try it, please feel free to shoot me a PM.
FlyingBasics
The extremely oversized control surfaces on the Glamour suggest that it is meant from the get-go as a 3D aircraft. However, the shape of the plane suggests that it might also be able to fly quasi-pattern type flights as well. I have flown aircraft similar to the Glamour, and I felt I had a good idea of what to expect from her. After a few initial CG setting flights, I realized the Glamour had no real bad habits in flight, and I was comfortable enough to start getting low and slow with the model.
Taking Off and Landing
The Glamour is extremely stable on the ground, perhaps too stable. The takeoff is unique: It almost acts as though it is stuck to the ground, and then when it is ready to go, it lifts off pretty abruptly. Most likely the cause of this is that the tail is too low to the ground, and the main gear are too short. An easy fix for this would be to raise the tail off the ground a little more or block up the landing gear. I have just gotten used to the characteristic and allow it to fly off the ground almost on its own. However, once in the air the model tracks straight and true with the preset thrust angle. Landings are nothing special. A little bit of power should be kept on, and just fly it to the ground.
Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance
The Glamour's thick and long fuselage allows the model to track very well. It will carve huge straight circuits into the sky. The roll performance of the Glamour is strictly up to the owner. With the throws lowered to a reasonable setting, the roll rate is docile enough for first time aerobats to get a feel for them. With the throws cranked up, the model has a very nice roll rate. The rudder on the Glamour is quite large and is extremely effective. The effectiveness of the rudder combined with the side area available on the fuse mean one thing: knife edge city! The model, however, excels in the area of high alpha. The Glamour is a hover and harrier machine. Harriers are crisp and clean with next to no wing rock. It is quite capable of rolling circles and rolling harriers. All in all, the Glamour makes for a great beginner foray into the 3D world and is also an aircraft that will keep the seasoned 3D veteran smiling.
Flight Video/Photo Gallery
Conclusion
The Glamour is a great flying aircraft. It is well built and robust. If you are looking for something that is extremely stable yet will dance if your thumbs will allow it, the Glamour is ready. If you are looking for something that will fly pattern yet allow you to cut up when the 3D bug hits, the Glamour is ready.
Cheers:
Jeers:
Last edited by Angela H; Aug 03, 2009 at 09:25 AM.. |
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Aug 02, 2009, 02:29 PM
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#2 |
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dont get mad and throw the tx
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Reading, PA
Posts: 1,018
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Good review. It looks like a well flying plane, but heck, what do i know?
  You are right about the takeoff though, it just pops up when it is good and ready.
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Aug 02, 2009, 03:28 PM
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#3 |
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Low and slow- how I roll
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Crest Mexifornia
Posts: 13,169
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Cool looking plane. Nice review, and nice flying
 I wonder if you could get it down to like 4lbs using a lighter power system. I've got a .15 sized one in my sig rascal on 3s lipo, and it flies the 5.6lb beast with authority. 40* climbs at WOT
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Aug 02, 2009, 05:13 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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Glamour
I did not find that the glamour sticks to the ground, my airplane will jump into the air 3 to 4 feet, check your thrust setup.
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Aug 02, 2009, 05:18 PM
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#5 |
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Rammer Jammer, ya'll..
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Florence, Al
Posts: 25,419
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I'll do that.. I'd love to remedy the "sticky ground" situation..
Did you add/remove any thrust? I've also noticed that the link in the review to the Glamour is not working, I'll get that fixed.. Link should be: http://www.abellrc.com *edit* I just checked out your build thread and it looks like you may have mounted your motor lower on the firewall than I mounted mine, judging by the location of the stock motor mount.. Not sure if the orientation of the mount will change the "center of the motor." Last edited by Tram; Aug 02, 2009 at 05:24 PM. |
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Aug 02, 2009, 05:41 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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Thrust
I an2.5 right thrust,0 up and down and 1/8 below center.My power setup has more zip then yours
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Aug 02, 2009, 06:39 PM
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#7 |
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Zombie Kill of the Week
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 8,718
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Sweet Jeff! Wish I would have taken you up on the offer to fly it at SEFF now. But then again, it may not have made it to the review video if I had. Seems like a nice pattern beast for sure
Cheers Bill |
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Aug 02, 2009, 08:31 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 379
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When I first saw the Glamor on the Abell web-site, I thought its shape was an awful lot like the Clik indoor pattern plane. http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=5364
I find it interesting about the take-off, because it you build the Clik per the instructions it will do the exact same thing - hug the ground until a certain speed is reached before lifting off. Adding about 1/4" to the height of the gear on the Clik solves the problem. |
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Aug 02, 2009, 09:51 PM
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#9 | ||
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Rammer Jammer, ya'll..
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Florence, Al
Posts: 25,419
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Quote:
 I am still curious about the location of your motor versus the location of my motor.. We both mounted the X mount differently, I went with more of a cross mount, as I didn't want to pin/redrill the stock holes, so I just left them alone.. The top of your motor mount is a little lower than where mine is, but I think that is attributed to the way it is mounted.. Had I mounted mine in the conventional "x" orientation, I think mine would look just like yours..   Quote:
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Aug 02, 2009, 10:26 PM
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#10 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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clearance
If you look at the side view of the cowl, It's a little up on the top titled back. If I tip the cowl 1/16th from the top forward, it would be dead on center. Since I don't do reviews, I didn't think it was important. If you look at the pictures I'm sending , I beafed up the firewall, because of the motor that I was using, and I will tell you, it SCREAMS. The canopy release, I installed for quick access to the battery. I fly this plane around half throttle. I like to have extra power that the plane needs for getting out of trouble. This plane is my best 3DR My DW foamies are next. Come to Tenn., and stay at my place and bring your plane , and we'll have a 3D fly out.
DAVE
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Aug 03, 2009, 06:56 AM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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Not far from me
I live in Dayton Tenn ,you live in Florence, a fly in is possible.
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Aug 03, 2009, 10:17 AM
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#12 |
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Rammer Jammer, ya'll..
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Florence, Al
Posts: 25,419
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Dayton, TN.. I used to fly into there about twice a week.. That little general store/resturant across from the park still open?
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Aug 03, 2009, 10:59 AM
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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Store
Dayton coffee shop,thats all that is left.Went to Chattanooga, the JR team was there and did a 3D demo, her's a few pictures.
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Aug 04, 2009, 12:25 PM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 396
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Stuck on the ground
To the guys who have this airplane,and would like to get off the ground fast.put bigger wheels on the front of airplane which changes the angle of attack,the air gets under the wing faster for lift off.
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Aug 05, 2009, 01:51 AM
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#15 |
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Rammer Jammer, ya'll..
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Florence, Al
Posts: 25,419
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Yeh, larger wheels would work also..
I'm going to try and block up the landing gear a bit and see what happens..
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