|Oct 23, 2008, 02:46 PM|
Joined Sep 2008
A few more test of laminator warehouse CP 10 mil film.
I started covering my P-Dog wing with the laminator warehouse CP 10 mil today and I did some test runs to make sure I didnít totally screw things up. Here is what I found.
1. Clothing Irons have a wide temperature swing even left at the same setting. So it is best to set it conservatively lower than the melting point of EPP. Mine was set at a setting of 2 and at times would almost be too hot with the erratic temperature swings.
2. EPP starts to melt at about 155 degrees F according to my cheep Harbor Freight CEN_TECH infrared thermometer. The glue on the CP 10 mil would melt at a significant lower temperature then the EPP. It would be wise to pick a safe point below 155 degrees F to iron down the CP 10 mil.
I have heard other people asking questions about the CP Light Blocker film. I ended up with some CP 10 mil light blocker by accident. Laminator Warehouse shipped the wrong item when I ordered the DI 5/2 film. Here is what I found testing the LB.
1 I weighed it and it weighs in at about 12.5 percent more than the same 10 mil clear CP.
2 It irons down about the same and looks solid white. It looks nice, at least as nice as any other white shrink covering.
3 A tear test showed me two things. It sticks well to the EPP but maybe not as well as the clear CP does. It is really close to being the same but I could pull up an edge a little easier than the clear CP. Once you got an edge pulled up off the EPP they would both pull or rip off the EPP with about the same force.
4 With a penalty of 12.5 % weight over the clear Iím thinking it would still be worth using the light blocker film rather than all this talk of painting. It would be easier, faster and I think it would weigh about the same.
Thatís all I got
|Oct 23, 2008, 03:11 PM|
You sure you were testing with EPP? I'm almost positive that EPP
does not melt anywhere near 155 degrees F. That sounds almost exactly
like the temperature at which Elapor starts to melt. I've run my covering
iron over 200F without ever worrying about melting EPP. In fact, I've
melted tape and covering pretty much everything without the EPP going.
|Oct 23, 2008, 05:07 PM|
Joined Sep 2008
Well, I did say a cheep infrared gun!
All I can tell you is that with the iron on anything above about 2 and the infrared gun reads anything above 155 or 160 max I can hold a piece of bed core from Jack Cooper's P-Dog against the iron and it will melt. I'm sure the P-Dog is made from EPP. If there are different melting points for different brands of EPP I don't know.
I started the experiments at 210 degress because of what I had read here on the form but that was way too hot. It could be the infrared gun is bad but it would have to be way off so I don't know.
Since my first post I have tried to cover the bottom of the P-dog with the light block film and I did not have my iron hot enough. When I shot it with the gun the iron read 134 degrees and that was not melting the glue. The hard thing using the light blocker is you can't see the glue melt and it is harder to tell when you have a good seal. I changed my mind on using it and used the CP clear and it went down real nice at 150 degrees.
I think the light blocker will work but it will be harder to get it right.
|Oct 23, 2008, 07:17 PM|
Well, I just took my covering iron and heated it up to over 300 degrees
(according to non-cheap IR thermometer), and held it to a block of
standard white 1.9lb EPP. It didn't start to melt or stick to the iron till I'd
held it on there for nearly 10 seconds. I lowered the temp to 230-240F
and I could set the iron down on the block of EPP forever without it melting.
At 220F it easily melts the adhesive in the 10mil "BCH" laminating film.
Even if your IR gun is broken, my point is that the adhesive in the film
melts at a much lower temperature than the EPP. I can't set my
iron temp any lower than 230F, to see where what the minimum melting
temp is, but I don't really need to either. The only time I've ever
had any problem with this film is while covering the fuse of a Elapor foam
EZ Glider and that foam does melt (beads puff up) at almost exactly
160F, so I had to sort of heat the film to melt the adhesive before
sticking it on. I'd just keep working along the edge just above
the foam and laying it down as I went.
Any chance your IR gun is actually showing celcius?
160C is 320F. That'd melt EPP.
|Oct 23, 2008, 07:52 PM|
Joined Sep 2008
Well I don't know what is going on here because I believe you. Your assessments of things you post seem to be right on. All I know is that I can toggle between F and C settings and that is not the problem. I shoot the floor, wall, or any other thing at room temperature with the gun and it reads 74 degrees to 76 degrees. This tells me it isn't to far off.
I guess the real point here is if you have never used the new stuff proceed with caution. Testing you iron on a piece of scrap first would be a good idea.
|Oct 23, 2008, 08:28 PM|
How about this, I never go over "2" on my iron either and, Ian is correct on the true temps. Both for sure.
I'd like to hear more about that white laminate, that stuff is newer then my reasearch so, I had no chance to test it but the price is OK and it sounds. . .the same I guess. Since the vast majority of my gear is under mounted this could make a nice top coat where the see through covering would have little advantage during the build. I do think that'll still leave us coloring with something. For us winter is coming fast and snow has already closed out best DS site! White will abound here but still good info!
I would also guess, total guess, that the white stuff sticks just as well but is stiffer as described in the product description. It may seem to come up easier because it wants to come off as a stiff plate where as a more plyible laminate like the 10 mil CP will bend more allowing it to come off more like a sticker. Guessing here. . . do the adhesive glues smell similar when activated? The product description did mention "strong bonding" or something like that.
Please PM me if you would be interested in parting with some of it for research's sake??? And thank-you for bringing this to light, after Lam house screwed up another order; it would not be the second time. . . LOL
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