Baisden Bipe Build Log
Don Baisden is a retired aeronautical engineer and a member of the Southern Eagles AMA Flying Club in Lady Lake, Florida. He designed a great flying BiPlane and has been so kind to share the template with his fellow flyers.
The Baisden Bipe is now being flown all over the world, thanks to Don.
However, Don did not have any PDF plans and the template was passed from hand to hand to those of us who were lucky enough to get it.
Because of the interest it generated at my own field, I have built 5 of these for others and I thought it might be a good time to take it a step further. So I have created a tiled PDF file from scratch using measurements taken from my planes.
I know you will enjoy flying this plane as much as I. It has become one of my most favorites to fly and I think you too will find it to be a great design and a fun fun plane to build and fly.
For material, you will need one sheet of 6mm Depron (38.5 x 27.5) and some 4.5mm flat carbon fiber and colored packing tape. Cost of material for this plane runs about $30.
I use colored packing tape from fast-pack.com to cover my planes. It is an extremely light material and provides a great covering. I will show you some tricks I have learned while buildiing mine so that you can get a quality finish on your model.
You will need some carbon fiber to stiffen the Depron. I use Midwest Products Carbon Fiber Strips (2 per package) .057 x .177 x 40" (1.4mm x 4.5mm x 1016mm) stock #5842 and 1 piece of carbon fiber strip .057 x .177 x 24" (1.4mm x 4.5mm x 610mm) stock #5742.
I power my biplanes with a $21 BP moter from Graves RC (BP 2217-9) and it uses an 18 amp ESC with a 11 x 4.7 APC prop to give it the best performance.
If you want to watch the video first, we put 5 of these guys in the air last Sunday dancing in the wind, all within a tight area to give you an idea of how agile these planes can be.
Two PDF files are attached. One is a single page PDF and the other is a 15 page full scale tiled layout.
I use 3M 77 spray adhesive lightly (very lightly) sprayed to the paper to adhere it to the Depron for cutting with an Xacto #11 blade. Sharpen your blades frequently with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper or change blades often to prevent tearing the Depron.
I'll cover the build in more detail in followup discussions, but this should give you a head start. Get your material together and we will build a great flying model over the next few days.
Please note: The wingspan of this plane is 34" and the width of the wings are 8". The plans assume 6mm Depron is being used and the openings for the fitting of parts when it comes time to assemble everything reflect the width of the Depron material, so if you plan to build this in Bluecore foam please note that you will need to reduce all parts openings by 1mm.
The fuse with rudder are a little over 37". CF will be about 4" behind the leading edge of the top wing.
Wow, you guys are fast! The PhlatPrinter is an interesting device. I build the old fashoned way and don't have one of these toyz but am anxious to hear how you progress with it.
I will describe the tried and true manual methods which I use for the rest of you who don't have the luxury of cutting out your parts on a machine.
Installing the carbon fiber requires some delicate cutting however and a Dremel tool and some special attachments are needed for this phase.
The carbon fiber that I use is 4.5mm wide and the Depron is 6mm. That leaves just 1.5mm still holding the plane together before we glue in the flat piece of carbon fiber, so cutting this groove requires a little help from a Dremel attachment. I have a Dremel router table, but you can also purchase a cheaper attachment that works just as well.
If you are using the Dremel hand router like mine, clamp a straight edge 5cm from the line in which you wish to score (see photo). Use a .06 diameter drill bit (also available from Dremel) to scrore the opening for the carbon fiber. Set the depth to 4.5mm and test on a piece of scrap before proceeding.
By installing the carbon fiber with the flat side perpendicular to the foam, there will be little or no flex in the fuse and wing when we are done. I have used round carbon fiber but it flexes way too much. The flat carbon fiber does not flex when mounted the way I do it.
You have 5 cuts to make, one in each wing, one down the entire length of the fusealage and two for support of the cabane attached to the top wing.
The 48" length of carbon fiber provides just enough material for the full length of the fuse plus the two cabane supports. Cut the carbon fiber with a dremel grinding cutter.
Each wing requires one 24" length of carbon fiber.
After routing, use a small jewlers screwdriver to clean the shavings from the cutout grooves.
Have a bottle of rubbing alcohol and paper towel on hand for the next step.
Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and use your thumb and forefinger to rub epoxy and work it into the carbon fiber. Place the carbon fiber into the groove and press into place. Use the alcohol and paper towel to clean the epoxy from your fingers and then run the paper towel along the top of the carbon fiber to remove the excess epoxy.
Do this for all 5 pieces (3 in the fuse and 1 in each wing).
The next step is to cut 45 degree angles into the alerons, elevator, and rudder.
I use a Dremel router bit and Dremel router table for a nice clean cut, but you can achieve very good results with careful use of an Xacto knife blade as well.
We want the underside of the alerons and elevator to have the 45 degree angle as we will be taping these components in place and the tape will become the hinges. Which side of the rudder you pick is inmaterial. We just want the 45 degree angle to be placed on the edge facing the fusealage.
Tomorrow we will start covering the Depron with flat-pack.com packing tape.
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I'm waiting for more on 'flat-pack.com' because I'm used to Depron and this blue stuff needs a little extra. I'm assuming it is just packing tape and a flavor of choice for brand.
Wow! its difficult just to keep up with you guys. With the advent of the PhlatPrinter, things move pretty fast. I have ordered one by the way. In the meantime, I'll have to continue with the old style methods.
I had planned to cover some topics later on, but with the CNC printer available to those lucky few, I am going to go ahead and cover that now.
The PDF plans do not account for openings for the servos. Nor do they give you any clue about the need to save the scrap between the wing and the edge of the Depron. This piece of scrap must be cut in half and epoxied to make the fuse rib which will further strengthen the fuse and serve as a guide for the tubes that hold the elevator and rudder connecting rods (thin wire).
I will cover this in more detail later in the build, but for those of you getting ahead of me, I just wanted to make it known now.
Today I had planned to talk about covering our plane. We will expoxy everything together later after we have completed the covering. I use a very light and very thin packing tape made by the folks at http://www.fast-pack.com/colored_tape.html. I have no affiliation with them. Their tape just happens to fit the bill perfectly for Depron planes. It is a translucent tape so if you were to use BlueCore foam, the printing would show thru so just be forewarned.
Covering our Depron in packing tape gives us a stronger plane and the packing tape adds almost no weight to the finished plane because it is so thin and lightweight.
Fast-pack.com ships this stuff very fast. Must be where they got there name. Pick your colors, place your order, and in a couple of days it will be at your doorstep. Now, I have covered foamies with all sorts of stuff in the past, but I can assure you, this is some of the best covering there is for this type of plane. You can use magic markers, Krylon foam safe paint, and even ultracote or other forms of heat applied covering, but the packing tape is my favorite, so that is what I am going to discuss in todays thread.
You can watch a Flash streaming video that I posted on my website at http://flashsolutions.us/FastPackDemo.html which demonstrates what I will discuss next.
Again, a sharp Xacto #11 blade is the key to working with this. Change blades often or sharpen them with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper for best results.
I prefer to use a glass top for working with the tape and cutting it. It saves my kitchen counter tops and the wrath of my wife (LOL).
The first thing we want to cover is the edges of each Depron piece we have cutout. The packing tape is 2" wide. I like to remove a 12 to 24" section of tape and place it directly on the glass for cutting. I cut 12mm strips from the tape to use for the edges. You don't have to be exact. You just want some overlap over each face of the object you are covering.
It is important to put the edges on first so that the overlaping pieces will be secured when we cover the face! The edgeing takes time but is well worth the end results.
This is a rather tedious process. Take your time with it. Most of the packing tape is translucent so you can easily see when you have the edging centered over the Depron. Whereever you have a corner, you need to cut the tape on both sides to prevent bunching up of the tape. Do this on all curves as well.
Take breaks after completing each piece. This is the hardest part of the build and if you start getting tired you will make mistakes and get frustrated. I know, I've built 5 of these. I spread this job out over a couple of days.
Once you have all of the edges complete, you are ready to move on to the face areas of each component. This goes much faster but to get a professional looking job, you will need to be patient. Any overlap of the tape will show up as another color since the tape is translucent. This means carefully aligning the edge of each piece of tape that you lay down so that it butts up to the previous piece.
Practice makes this job easier as you go. If you start to get off course with the tape, just peel it back off and start over. Do not put a lot of pressure on the tape until you have made sure it is perfectly in place. Then you can rub it in with your fingers to work the glue into the Depron a bit tighter. The tape will accept a low heat cloth covered iron used for applying monokote if you really want to set the glue permanently.
After applying each 2" strip, turn the Depron over and trim the excess tape with your Xacto blade.
I do not recommend putting stripes of different color over existing layers of tape unless you first test it on some scrap material. The translucency of the tape may not yield the effect you expect. For putting white stars over the top of tape, I use ultracote and either iron it on or apply it with 3M 77 spray adhesive. The ultracote is not translucent and gives a better effect than the tape in this case.
Tomorrow we will cutout the servo slots and start putting the parts together.
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