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Old Jun 12, 2009, 05:19 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfrank2005
Simply brilliant Dan. Great for grass launches. I might have to build one up for myself. Do you have any schematic plans for the dolly? How does the plane stay so firmly on the dolly while taxing down the runway?
Here's a link to the MiG29 pages: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=455

The dolly is an ugly, frankenstein monster thrown together from old planes and an idea. It works (sort of), but the design could do with a little refinement

Cheers,

Dan.
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 05:42 PM
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Thats a cool deal. Bet that took some time to de-bug. But wouldnt a bungy launcher be simpler?
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 05:59 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cray2602
Thats a cool deal. Bet that took some time to de-bug. But wouldnt a bungy launcher be simpler?
Surprisingly, it worked without modification but only after I determined that full up elevator is required to stop it nosing over as it approached flying speed (yes, the MiG got some dirt on it before I worked that out )

I may look into a bungee for it, but I'd prefer that these model manufacturers would make retracts that can handle something rougher than smooth concrete.

Those vigilante gears look great, but I want retracts! (stamping feet and having a tantrum).

Have a great modelling day!

Dan.
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 06:48 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Guys,

What CG are you getting good results from? (measured from where?)

Thanks,

Dan.
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 07:47 PM
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Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dro56595@bigpo
Guys,

What CG are you getting good results from? (measured from where?)

Thanks,

Dan.
The accepted CG is anywhere between 95-100mm from the leading wing edge (the part that connects to the main fuse) towards the rear of the plane is great. I fly at 100 to keep the CG on par with good results.
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 08:10 PM
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Maiden attempt #3 was a success. Kinda.

After 3 taxi tests the rear gear was holding up fine, but the nose gear started to slip on one of its set screws and was almost unsteerable. Go figure. So i just said heck with it and went for glory. Kept it straight enough to get her in the air. Man this jet flies beutifull. Top speed wasnt impressive but fast enough, however i was flying dirty with the gear down and all ordinance installed. But climbing power is great, loop from level was almost to easy. It feels perfectly balanced and smooth in the air. I knew landing was going to be hairy as soon as the nose wheel touched down so i brought her in nice and slow and it flaired perfectly. The instant the rear wheels touched the right rear retract fell off and it dragged the wing a few feet untill it flipped on its top. Damage wasnt bad at all, mostly limited to the sidewinders on the wing tips and the nose cone popped off as it should.

No idea how im going to fasten these retract housings into the airframe and know for sure its gonna stay put. I pulled them out and reglued them with Gorilla glue before i ever attempted a flight. It pulled the foam loose.
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Old Jun 12, 2009, 09:28 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepperpete
The accepted CG is anywhere between 95-100mm from the leading wing edge (the part that connects to the main fuse) towards the rear of the plane is great. I fly at 100 to keep the CG on par with good results.
Thanks. I'll have to extend my battery tray a little further forward. Seems the all-alloy Lander fan is a bit heavier than standard!

Cheers.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 01:46 AM
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Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
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Awesome! Great to hear you finally got her into the air! And yes she does fly beautifully.

This WILL work as I've had 30+ flights and some rough landings on grass without them pulling out...

For the retracts, I pulled out the retract holder and drilled small holes into each side of the holder. I then reinstalled the retract holder and then shoved wood dowels (small obviously) through the holes and into the foam itself.

To get dowel in the holes, I simply cut them as wide as the top opening of the retract holder, and then used plyers to position them in the holes and pushed until they made a hole in the foam. Doing that for both sides of the retract holder. Think of it as a flush "stopper". You only need one per retract holder side and make sure to glue the entire retract holder assembly (use lots) with 5 minute epoxy. Those suckers will NOT come out.

When you try to pull the retract holder out, the dowels stop it from moving. It's the exact same principal as the battery cover metal piece that holds the battery cover from coming off only this is permanent.

Then I just replaced the retract unit itself and I've never had an issue in over 30 flights.





Quote:
Originally Posted by cray2602
Maiden attempt #3 was a success. Kinda.

After 3 taxi tests the rear gear was holding up fine, but the nose gear started to slip on one of its set screws and was almost unsteerable. Go figure. So i just said heck with it and went for glory. Kept it straight enough to get her in the air. Man this jet flies beutifull. Top speed wasnt impressive but fast enough, however i was flying dirty with the gear down and all ordinance installed. But climbing power is great, loop from level was almost to easy. It feels perfectly balanced and smooth in the air. I knew landing was going to be hairy as soon as the nose wheel touched down so i brought her in nice and slow and it flaired perfectly. The instant the rear wheels touched the right rear retract fell off and it dragged the wing a few feet untill it flipped on its top. Damage wasnt bad at all, mostly limited to the sidewinders on the wing tips and the nose cone popped off as it should.

No idea how im going to fasten these retract housings into the airframe and know for sure its gonna stay put. I pulled them out and reglued them with Gorilla glue before i ever attempted a flight. It pulled the foam loose.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 02:01 AM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Taxi tests on bumpy concrete went well, but I'm not confident about rough grass. We'll see ...

Battery tray extended forward to achieve 100mm CG.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 02:02 AM
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Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dro56595@bigpo
Taxi tests on bumpy concrete went well, but I'm not confident about rough grass. We'll see ...

Battery tray extended forward to achieve 100mm CG.
You cannot go on rough grass until you replace the crap wire with proper piano wire.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 02:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dro56595@bigpo
Taxi tests on bumpy concrete went well, but I'm not confident about rough grass. We'll see ...

Battery tray extended forward to achieve 100mm CG.
Thanks Dan, I'll be sure to note down the 100mm cg when I finally get her together. BTW, what size packs are you currently using? I have a few 4600mAh 6S lipos that hopefully will fit. I am currently trying to fit the fan/motor into the lower mount of the jet. How much did you have to shave throughout the circumference of the fan unit? Mark did mention some dremelling may be required, but he did not say by how much. When I tried to fit the two frame halves together, there appears to be about a 10mm space on either side. Looks like I may need to shave off about 5mm on both halves
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 04:17 AM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfrank2005
Thanks Dan, I'll be sure to note down the 100mm cg when I finally get her together. BTW, what size packs are you currently using? I have a few 4600mAh 6S lipos that hopefully will fit. I am currently trying to fit the fan/motor into the lower mount of the jet. How much did you have to shave throughout the circumference of the fan unit? Mark did mention some dremelling may be required, but he did not say by how much. When I tried to fit the two frame halves together, there appears to be about a 10mm space on either side. Looks like I may need to shave off about 5mm on both halves
I removed the lower clamp from the fan unit - just used the top side and screwed it into the ply motor mount in the model. Saved a few mm of dremelling and (I think) unnecessary weight. (see a previous photo a few pages back)

Here's a pic of the battery tray extention. Had to hack out some foam from that 'bulkhead', but it's better than adding lead in the nose.

I use 6s 4000mAh batteries.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 04:44 AM
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Guys..here are the photos I have taken so far of my kit. Seeing that the build instructions is almost non existant, has someone documented in step by step form how this kit should be built (taking into account the mods as well). I'm not quite sure where to start?
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 04:59 AM
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The rest of the bits. Motor/fan housing not yet attached.
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Old Jun 13, 2009, 06:33 AM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
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From memory, this is my rough order of build. You're gonna have to lay out all the hardware to get an idea where it all goes.

1. Lower-rear fuselage:
a) mount fan unit
b) run motor wires (through hole and under belly) to ESC belly compartment, then forward to battery compartment.
c) install main retract (, rudder) and elevator servos, then run servo leads towards wherever you want your receiver (I used the cavity where the wiring comes back up).
d) install main gears

2. Top-rear fuselage:
a) join wings to fuselage and insert carbon fibre wing spars (2-pack epoxy)
b) install aileron servos, horns and push rods

3. Lower-forward fuselage:
a) install nose gear retract servo
b) install nosewheel steering servo
c) thread retract unit push-rod from nosewheel bay through hole towards retract servo and attatch to pushrod and servo
d) install nose gear

This is very helpful (thanks Pete)
F-18 90mm retracts (5 min 15 sec)


4. Install your (modified) undercarriage/retracts.

5. Join and reinforce lower fuselage front & rear halves. I left the top off for easier access to everything.

6. Install receiver and power-up the retracts, then endlessly fiddle with the end-point adjustments, push-rods, etc to get them working nice without buzzing.

7. Insert some carbon rod in tailplanes and cut mating grooves into fuselage sides (see my previous photos in this thread)

8. Epoxy top and lower rear fuselage sections, and tailplanes. Support tailplanes to ensure they're straight. Clamp and leave to cure.

9. Epoxy front upper fuselage to the rest. I added ply reinforcing across this join also.

10. Epoxy vertical fins, with carbon rods inserted for strength.

That's just an outline. There's a lot of little steps in between. Read the entire thread again! Think a lot, measure twice, then go crazy with your dremel, carbon rod and epoxy!

Chaps - feel free to critique and improve on what I've said here. I'm happy to learn too!

Cheers,

Dan.
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