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Old May 30, 2009, 04:27 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Finally got a start on the build.

First job - see how the RC-Lander fan fits. First hurdle - a bit too big! Spent the evening carefully Dremelling foam.

It's starting to get cold here. The workshop is very chilly at night, and so is the wife

Next job - determine cable lengths and solder connections.
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Old May 30, 2009, 04:50 PM
Watts Up?
jet-ster's Avatar
USA, TX, Arlington
Joined Jun 2006
1,634 Posts
Lithonion
HOLLY COW! thats going to be one hell of a paint job!
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Old May 30, 2009, 07:08 PM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dro56595@bigpo
Finally got a start on the build.

First job - see how the RC-Lander fan fits. First hurdle - a bit too big! Spent the evening carefully Dremelling foam.

It's starting to get cold here. The workshop is very chilly at night, and so is the wife

Next job - determine cable lengths and solder connections.
The Hayoe fan was a bit too big as well. Was pretty easy to make the room though. I am extremely curious to see how the RC Lander fan will perform.
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Old May 30, 2009, 11:03 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Williamtown RAAF
Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepperpete
The Hayoe fan was a bit too big as well. Was pretty easy to make the room though. I am extremely curious to see how the RC Lander fan will perform.
Me too!
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 08:58 AM
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Plain ole KS
Joined Jan 2008
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I got my 2200mah 3s batterys in and installed them in the F-18. They fit perfect and the CG is close to spot on, however the wireing is a mess with four batterys wired together to make a 6s2p pack. Havent come up with a solution yet to get all the wire mess to fit under the hood. I think im going to also install a switch between the batterys and the BEC/ESC, the spark that jumps out when i connect the main battery wire is scary.
My nose retract servo quit locking the nose wheel in the down position with the extra weight of the batterys and the nose steering servo doesnt have enough torque to even turn the front wheels with the batterys in. This jet is driving me crazy. By the time im going to be done fixing all this junk i would have been able to build this jet from scratch. Im going to just lock all the retracts down with collars for now and fix it all someday later on.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 11:08 AM
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All the time effort and money that it seems to take to get the retracts working reliably it's looking possibly more cost effective to go with some of current smaller air setups.

It's taking something like the HS 225MGs with 55 to 65 in ozs of torque to operate them properly. One of these weighs as much as up to 3 of the stock servos. And the trouble to get them fitted.

I looked at the BH photo spread on the V2s and if you look closely the front retracts aren't sitting all the way into the recess in flight although when turned over for a close up they are. So I'll bet they just stuck some of the same 9 to 12G, 20 or so in oz MG servos in place of the original plastic gears and that's not likely to fix the issue long term.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 11:16 AM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
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Once you are rolling the nose wheel will probably steer as it doesn't take much. Mine hardly moves either when I am not moving forward but has plenty once the friction of being dead stopped is removed so I wouldn't worry about that.

That spark is normal. I get that all the time on my planes/heli's. It's alot of juice. It won't cause any harm.

Your front gear locking down. You need to loosen off the screw that is holding your pushrod to the servo itself, pull on the wire so that it is totally locked down in the down position, and then resecure the screw. Do that to all three. And THEN retract the gear and use the travel ajustment to get them up as far as you can into the belly. Honestly the weight has nothing to do with locking the gear. It's setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cray2602
I got my 2200mah 3s batterys in and installed them in the F-18. They fit perfect and the CG is close to spot on, however the wireing is a mess with four batterys wired together to make a 6s2p pack. Havent come up with a solution yet to get all the wire mess to fit under the hood. I think im going to also install a switch between the batterys and the BEC/ESC, the spark that jumps out when i connect the main battery wire is scary.
My nose retract servo quit locking the nose wheel in the down position with the extra weight of the batterys and the nose steering servo doesnt have enough torque to even turn the front wheels with the batterys in. This jet is driving me crazy. By the time im going to be done fixing all this junk i would have been able to build this jet from scratch. Im going to just lock all the retracts down with collars for now and fix it all someday later on.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 11:22 AM
He builds stuff. :)
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Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
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I can't really agree with that. HS-225's are the same cost as the HS65's. The "trouble" to get them fitted is 20 seconds with an exacto knife so I'm not sure what you consider as trouble. As for weight...an air system is going to weigh just as much. Now this is all based on the kit version of the aircraft. If you are having to swap everything from the ARF...then yup it's a pain but no more so than installing an Air System. But as I've said before...without a JR Matchbox or some form of digital ajustment for the retracts, I would have been just as frustrated. And no I don't own stock in JR. :P

Quote:
Originally Posted by QueeQueg
All the time effort and money that it seems to take to get the retracts working reliably it's looking possibly more cost effective to go with some of current smaller air setups.

It's taking something like the HS 225MGs with 55 to 65 in ozs of torque to operate them properly. One of these weighs as much as up to 3 of the stock servos. And the trouble to get them fitted.

I looked at the BH photo spread on the V2s and if you look closely the front retracts aren't sitting all the way into the recess in flight although when turned over for a close up they are. So I'll bet they just stuck some of the same 9 to 12G, 20 or so in oz MG servos in place of the original plastic gears and that's not likely to fix the issue long term.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 12:13 PM
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Plain ole KS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pepperpete
Your front gear locking down. You need to loosen off the screw that is holding your pushrod to the servo itself, pull on the wire so that it is totally locked down in the down position, and then resecure the screw.
I did that to all of mine and it worked , however one of my rear servos had allready got worn out and stripped from to much torque needed by the time i got it working correctly. The nose gear i got working perfectly but after i put the batterys in all of a sudden it wouldnt stay locked in the down position because of the anlge of the servo arm and the retract pull rod is kinda whacky. Ill get it all working later on, i just want to get it in the air for now and make sure everything else is gonna hold up.

The spark on the 6s battery setup is enourmos, im used to the usual spark but man when i hook up that 6s battery it scares you if you arent ready for it.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 12:15 PM
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I've already decided against the ARF. Mostly because I have a lot of stuff already usable for this.

I'm looking at doing the airframe only and if I can simplify things with airs than that's my plan.

You're probably right as far trouble to do but I'm also looking at the overall end product.

I've never had any airs and every set of mechanical retracts I've had have given me more grey hair so being a glutten for punishment I'm thinking about trying some since they're down to 130 bucks.

As far as spark you should try a 12S pack sometime. I've had spectators jump when I plug them up
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 12:44 PM
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Plain ole KS
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Cant imagine the spark from a 12s battery, I almost ducked for cover the first time i hooked up the 6s. I suppose it would never arc across the Deans plug and cause a short while hooking it up could it?
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Not with DC. Or at least I hope not!!

Some of the European ESCs like Kontronics don't spark. That have some sort of capacitor setup that absorbs the initial spike. Be nice if the rest would follow suit.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 01:03 PM
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Swanton, OH
Joined Jul 2007
5,041 Posts
Tam sells the same style thing. Plug this into your lipo setup first, then into the ESC.
http://www.tamjets.com/original/prod...roducts_id=431
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 01:29 PM
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Joined Apr 2009
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That's neat.

I'm used to it by now. Been flying HV stuff since NiCads at 32 cells. Before Deans plugs were available the best around were the Astroflights and they were toast within about 50 flights.
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Old Jun 02, 2009, 08:27 PM
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Plain ole KS
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Ran up the motor on my 6s2p setup. I shut it down at 92amps around 1950watts. Not sure how high the amps would have ended up at WOT, any more and im sure something would have smoked. And that run was at 50% battery capacity. I am going to try limiting my throttle end point and see if i can keep it around 75amps or so at WOT. No luck with that so far.

Also blew up the rotor spinner. Luckily it didnt shatter the fan to. Inspected the blades and didnt find any cracks. The spinner didnt come loose it just broke, the screw was still tight and had a round piece of spinner plastic still under it. I contemplated leaving it off in the first place cause i had a feeling that wasnt going to hold up.
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