This effect is not related to CCD vs CMOS, is due to missing of the so called hot mirror, an InfraRed filter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_mirror

Usualy in normal cameras it is placed on sensor, as a thin protection layer made from lithium niobate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_niobate.
For such small cameras it is in the lens, probably for costs reason.
You can easily recognize the lens having embedded such filter if you look the rear lens at an angle and see red reflections.
BTW, the CCDkiller is called so because it is a CMOS camera and Aiptek too is CMOS.

Originally Posted by RENATOA

This effect is not related to CCD vs CMOS, is due to missing of the so called hot mirror, an InfraRed filter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot_mirror

Usualy in normal cameras it is placed on sensor, as a thin protection layer made from lithium niobate: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lithium_niobate.
For such small cameras it is in the lens, probably for costs reason.
You can easily recognize the lens having embedded such filter if you look the rear lens at an angle and see red reflections.
BTW, the CCDkiller is called so because it is a CMOS camera and Aiptek too is CMOS.

Thatīs why I am asking for Lens with that filter

Hey guys...I think this is the same (secret) connector as used in AHD+...
I got shot twice and had to jump off a building to get this so I hope its the one or have to go back in..but im a worrior, and will keep tryin

http://www.4uconnector.com

That's already been posted

(secret) connector - male

http://www.4uconnector.com/

really..sorry..thought I found it...I dont wanna mess with the board, I want to find thisss thing!.. they had to get it from somewhere, lets bribe that guy somebody said is out there that worked for aiptek

I'm stripping down my Aiptek A-HD+ and I'd like to avoid usind an USB connector to power it. Can I feed 5v from RVOSD directly to battery terminals or I will fry it? Has anybody tried this? Those terminals are the only large enough to solder to with my limited skills, but the battery is only 3.7v.
Ro

Originally Posted by Pepelatz

I'm stripping down my Aiptek A-HD+ and I'd like to avoid usind an USB connector to power it. Can I feed 5v from RVOSD directly to battery terminals or I will fry it? Has anybody tried this? Those terminals are the only large enough to solder to with my limited skills, but the battery is only 3.7v.
Ro

Feed it to the USB connectors solder joints, it wants 5v, where as the battery terminals want 3.7v.

Originally Posted by Gussy

Feed it to the USB connectors solder joints, it wants 5v, where as the battery terminals want 3.7v.

Thanks, Gussy, but USB solder joints are too small for me to solder to, this is out of question. If I only had such skills!
Anybody else?
Ro

Originally Posted by Pepelatz

Thanks, Gussy, but USB solder joints are too small for me to solder to, this is out of question. If I only had such skills!
Anybody else?
Ro

Connect the usb cable, cut it and solder the wires...

Originally Posted by mmormota

Connect the usb cable, cut it and solder the wires...

Aiptek will not go to recording mode when powered from USB connector.
So, my question to electronics gurus: is there an easy way to drop 5v from RVOSD to 3.7v to feed battery terminals? Or can they take 5v without smoke? Has anybody tried this?
Ro

I have the Aiptek mounted on my AP Swift Heli, and it works great, but I would like to find a 90 degree video jack for the video feed to my tx. If I can get a 90 degree jack it will put less tension on the video out jack connector durring pan and tilt.

Originally Posted by Pepelatz

Aiptek will not go to recording mode when powered from USB connector.
So, my question to electronics gurus: is there an easy way to drop 5v from RVOSD to 3.7v to feed battery terminals? Or can they take 5v without smoke? Has anybody tried this?
Ro

Try this: http://www.dimensionengineering.com/DE-SWADJ.htm

-tychoc

When the main goal is to see more ground than sky, I found very uneffective to place the Aiptek in the canopy in normal position, with lens up.
I am thinking to place it upsidedown, cut a hole in the belly, build a wall around lens opening (or a small dome) it to protect at landing, and reverse the goggles accordingly, to see normal.
What do you think about this approach, would it be effective?

Sounds like it could work.

What plane are you putting it in?