will the materials used in the above mentioned boat be compatable for use in salt and brakish (sp) water? what care should be given to the finish and to the electronics?
also is this a good choice in ready to run tug boats?

'C-Mule,
The idea is a pretty simple one, the doing of it isn't quite as simple, though. The idea is to get the salt or 'brak' out/off of the boat. Not owning such a tug, I can't tell you how to do that specifically. The getting it 'off' isn't too bad, wash it with 'clean' water. The getting it 'out' isn't as simple, but is basically the same thing, then drying things out and re-lubricating where needed. That generally means taking things apart, cleaning, then putting it all back together again... correctly.
Not much help, I know, but I'll bet there are a few 'salty-dogs' here that can tell you specifically what to do/not to do.
Have fun.
- 'Doc

Yes, it's a good choice. But you can also buy the seaport tugboat and convert it to Futaba RC with a new radio, receiver, ESC, battery, and servo. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_80...tm.htm#8028272

Running on salt water made all my deck screws rusty and very easy to strip.

Originally Posted by HoaRC

Yes, it's a good choice. But you can also buy the seaport tugboat and convert it to Futaba RC with a new radio, receiver, ESC, battery, and servo.

Running on salt water made all my deck screws rusty and very easy to strip.

Doesnt even come close to answering the question.

Fisherman use a prodeuct called SaltX to spray down there fishing gear, helps get rid of the salt. Rinse well with fresh water and lube everything after running. But I think no matter how hard you try salt water will eventually have its affect on any boat you run in it.

Replace steel screws with brass or stainless. The electronics should be unaffected as the wet is supposed to stay on the outside. The prop and shaft will need a touch of silicon base grease to repel water, and will benefit from regular servicing. The same applies to the rudder.
Cleaning the outside other than corrodible metal is optional - depends on whether you want it to continue looking like a toy or whether you want character.
If there is anywhere that two dissimilar metals meet, such as shaft/bearing/outer electrolytic corrosion will happen. Again, fresh water to remove the salt and a protective layer of grease. My Revell Corvette did an actual 400 miles before the prop shaft needed changing. Thats based on nearly 100 sailings per year over 5 years on a salt 'n' silt lake 1 mile round.