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Old Oct 04, 2008, 12:37 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Motor City
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One more Envoy...

OK, time for a kit build! Yes it's been done ably before by others here, but that won't stop me from posting.

Got a Model Slipways Envoy, gonna build it "post war". The MS site has plenty of info, some reposted below.
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 12:45 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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First thing for me is always a weight budget. Mark the hull's waterline, go to the indoor domestic marine test facility, and load her up with lead shot until just right.

I have an 8 lb 12v 12Ah gel cell, 3.5 lb hull, and 12.5 pounds of lead here for a total of 24 lbs.
Haven't weighed the rest of the model parts yet, but I know there's about 3 lbs in the metal fittings.
What we see here though is that like most tugs, there needs to be a lot of weight aft. I won't know exactly how much to allow for until I weigh the other parts, but I'll likely need ballast compartments for maybe 3 lbs each to either side of the motor... maybe less if I can move the battery back, but I'll also need ballast forward.

Like on the Dearborn tug and other builds, I'll actually build lidded compartments to load shot into, rather than just laying shot bags in the bilges.
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 01:46 PM
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what motor/esc/prop?
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 02:26 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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MFA Como 6:1 (500 size)
Robbe Rookie
Prop Shop 4 blader
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 03:18 PM
WooHoo!
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Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
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Looks very cool Pat. How is the quality of the MS f/g hull & super structure?
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Last edited by woodybob; Oct 04, 2008 at 05:34 PM.
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 03:32 PM
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Not bad, not perfect... but nothing a little TLC and filler can't take care of!
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 05:06 PM
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We'll install a Raboesch 5mm prop shaft tube in this Envoy. Nicer hardware than my usual DIY tubes, with turned brass ends, upper ball bearing and lower Oilite, and an o-ring at the lower end to seal things. Also comes with a grease tube and grease nipple... elegant overkill!

MS suggests drilling an 8mm (5/16") hole through the boss and skeg for the kit's tube... but we need a bigger hole, nearly 13/32", and such a drill would snag, grab, and destroy the fiberglass. So I wittled away the hole with a long 1/8" carbide burr in my Dremel. Still have a little repair to do once the shaft is in place, but no disasters.

I'm nowhere near ready to "set" the tube, but this is a good time to check the inboard shaft height. Typically, the shaft will rise a wee bit going forward, relative to the keel. I eyeballed this with tube in place, shaft extending out the back, and then measured a reference height inboard to the shaft center... about 1-5/16" over the "floor" inside.
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Old Oct 04, 2008, 06:19 PM
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The other "first thing" you should do is build a cradle, even if just a rough one for in the shop. MS is nice enough to give us the lines for cradles to support this hull, so we don't have to try to noodle it out ourselves, thank you very much!

This is just 1/2" poplar with 1" dowels and some rubber weatherstripping. I raised the forward end 7/16" compared to the cradle drawing, which puts the waterline parallel to the bench top.
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Old Oct 05, 2008, 06:20 PM
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If one is interested in original Envoy info, where better than from the UK? I wanted to know about home ports of the civilian tugs, which isn't given in the MS literature- got one of them here:
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/for...?topic=13053.0

Also some interesting photos, showing details left out of the kit, like some of the rigging...

There is more out there... MS credits a Mr. Hammal, who seems to have a lot of detail photos... just one of these shows up in one of Tom Gorman's model books, would like to see much more!

Gripe: Model kits makers seem to not want to show us original pix, maybe because kit shortcomings will become apparent? But darn it all, they have the info, why not make it available to those who are interested???
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Old Oct 17, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Any progress?
Dusted mine off when I saw your build begin.

Jeff
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Old Oct 17, 2008, 09:27 AM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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Hope to dive back into it this weekend. Show us yours too!
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Old Oct 17, 2008, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patmat2350
Hope to dive back into it this weekend. Show us yours too!
Will do...
I've got to pull everything out. It has been about 8 months since I worked on mine.


Jeff
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Old Oct 18, 2008, 09:26 PM
Veni, Vidi, Feci
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OK, back to work!

I've starting the roughing-in work on the hull with the stuffing tube... more to do with the motor mount before setting it. But first, I want to get the messy work out of the way.

1. MS uses some pretty coarse mat, so the interior looks like an ancient Buddhist temple overgrown with Banyan tree roots. Those parts of the inner bulwarks that will be exposed need to be sanded down. I don't have one of those neat mini-belt sanders, so I used a sanding drum in an electric drill followed by hand block sanding. Even that wasn't enough, so I'll need a little filler later. Don't want to use just filler, as we want something structural here to attach bulwark braces and such to later.

2. Also time to sand and fill any seams and flaws in the exterior gelcoat. Gee, I wish MS would get their hulls from Microglass...

3. Next, mark out and cut out the freeing ports and port holes. I use a 1/16" carbide bit for this job, lets me use my Dremel like a 'glass eating pencil. Carefully work up close to the lines, then finish with files.

4. It's not time yet to install the port hole rims, but note that they mount from the INSIDE, leaving just a thin metal rim in the hole, flush with the hull exterior. I've seen several tugs where these were stuck on the outside. Should be brass on a civilian ship, but painted a drab gray on an Admiralty tug. Not sure how best to glaze them... but that's needed to keep the water out!

5. Thinking about putting a aft peak tank in over the stuffing tube to hold ballast. But how to fit the plates to the hull? Simple- lasers! Used a laser to strike a plane in the hull, traced that, then marked out stations and measured the widths... transferred those to a template for final fitting. More later.

Pat
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Old Oct 18, 2008, 11:02 PM
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Hackettstown, NJ
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Glad to see you wear your safety gear when working with the glass! We all need to remember that just because they're models we still have to work with some of the same hazards as the real thing.

If I'd been wearing my safety harness while at work I wouldn't be in a wheel chair right now!!! You don't have to fall very far.

Keep safe guys!

Mike
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Old Oct 19, 2008, 08:51 PM
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Hull Full of Holes

Finished the various holes.
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