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Old Dec 09, 2011, 05:48 PM
Put a bigger motor on it!
gtfreeflyer's Avatar
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Feb 2007
1,564 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dag214 View Post
Without a doubt the biggest challenge on the project is what parts are built when, and then how and when they are assembled. The wing center section being attached to the fuse was the hardest and most important step I have had so far.
I know exactly what you are talking about. That is such a critical area that you really need to have both designed before you can start making parts. It would be much easier to just design the wing, freeze it, and then design the attachment on the fuselage, but it just never works that way. The design of that area, to me, has always been just like an Excel spreadsheet giving you "Circular error" messages, lol. No matter how many times I've done it, I still find myself designing the whole wing and fuselage structures before progressing to the next step.
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Old Dec 09, 2011, 10:49 PM
Ex Thud Driver
billrcpilot's Avatar
USA, OK, Crescent
Joined Oct 2003
636 Posts
Question:

DAG: I have watched this thread from the beginning and oh what a thread, this is off topic but you being the Master of all builder's i have a problem. I live in Oklahoma and a few weeks back we had a serious Earth Quake something unheard of here in Okla, will a jar on a shelf above my work table came crashing down upon my balsa sheeted wing of my Extra 300 putting a quarter size hole between two ribs, what is the best way to repair this hole. The plane has a 58" WS, I know you have the answer.

Thanks
Bill,Thuddriver
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 06:40 AM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by billrcpilot View Post
DAG: I have watched this thread from the beginning and oh what a thread, this is off topic but you being the Master of all builder's i have a problem. I live in Oklahoma and a few weeks back we had a serious Earth Quake something unheard of here in Okla, will a jar on a shelf above my work table came crashing down upon my balsa sheeted wing of my Extra 300 putting a quarter size hole between two ribs, what is the best way to repair this hole. The plane has a 58" WS, I know you have the answer.

Thanks
Bill,Thuddriver
That is a nightmare I have all the time. I had a 11 pound 1' long, by 6" round chunk of 6061 that set on a shelf above my B-36 wings for months. Then I heard of all these quakes and I moved it.

These will work if there is no spar damage.

If your wing is balsa sheeted over ply ribs it is a easy fix. Take a brand new X-Acto blade and very carefully cut a hole about 1/8" inch bigger that the hole in the wing. But make sure you make the cut so the lip of the hole is at 45 degrees (like a crater). Now cut a circle out of a piece of balsa the same thickness as your wing sheeting (make sure the gran direction is the same as on the wing) with a 45 degree angle cut on it. Test lay the circle into the hole in the wing and just take your time to sand it to get a perfect fit. CA it in and sand until she looks perfect.

If the hole is to big for the above.
Take a brand new X-Acto blade and cut a line about and below the hole across from rib to rib. Be very careful when you get to the rib as you want to cut to the middle of the rib as to leave a lip to set the new balsa sheeting on. Once you have the damaged sheeting remove cut a new piece of sheeting from a piece of balsa sheeting the same thickness and CA back into place.

These kind of repairs are really not that hard, and once you add back on the iron covering she in most cases as still strong enough.

If this is a foam wing with balsa it is even easier. Just carefully cut a circle just bigger than the hole (careful not to cut into the foam) peel away the old balsa and cut a new circle, take and apply a very thin layer of 15 minute epoxy and glue the disk back in. You may or may not want to fill the hole that is in the foam. If it were me I would got to a hardware store and buy a piece of white foam and sand a plug to glue into the hole, then add my balsa sheeting circle on top of that.

Hope this helps. If you are a hardcore IMAC or 3D guy you may want to re-balance your wing (tip to tip) as you may add just a pinch of weight.

Good luck,
DAG
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 07:25 AM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
Well,
It was a VERY late night.

Yesterday morning at 9:30am I got this on my door step from FED-X http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/208...3500-HVLP.aspx.

Unfortunate I had about 10 hours of work to do as I have to go to San Fran next week. So last night I got it out of the box and it is Batman cool......

It makes more noise than I like, but sprays really nice. I ordered a small jet for it and plan on testing that today.

This is my old test pylon (mock-up #2). But the light is called "Tin" and the dark is called "Mirror". The light will be my Aluminum and the dark my magnesium. And don't freak out, I know I need to lighten the dark just a bit, but I think you can see the direction I am going...

Thanks, DAG
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Angelo's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Nov 1999
2,083 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by fooman2008 View Post
Just as an aside didn't they collapse the nose gear on the full size 36 during high speed taxi tests? Bad alloy or something? I do know they had to change from the single mains to bogie (four wheels), but didn't they ding up the nose gear once?
Foo
The prototype had a main gear collapse. There was so much pressure with the single main wheel, it could only use 3 airports with specially strengthened runways. They fixed that when they switched to a 4 wheel bogie.
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 01:35 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2002
1,952 Posts
Here's the skinny on that main gear failure (apologies if it's been posted before. I don't remember seeing it)..
http://www.cowtown.net/proweb/firstcrash.htm
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 02:40 PM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
Ok team... need some help.

I need a easy to sand tint-able water-based polyurethane primer.....

Anything like this exists???

Thanks, DAG
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 05:37 PM
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byrocat's Avatar
Aurora, Ontario, Canada
Joined Mar 2002
1,614 Posts
Dag. I was thinking about trying to pick up a Wagner Powerpainter, but now I've seen your latest purchase.

My only question is how much overspray there'd be in painting a wall, especially with the newly refinished oak floors (a potentially very dangerous situation from my wife's viewpoint).

Have fun with your new toy!
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 05:45 PM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by byrocat View Post
Dag. I was thinking about trying to pick up a Wagner Powerpainter, but now I've seen your latest purchase.

My only question is how much overspray there'd be in painting a wall, especially with the newly refinished oak floors (a potentially very dangerous situation from my wife's viewpoint).

Have fun with your new toy!
Gotta be honest, I love this toy but don't have enough experience yet to answers your question. But what is really strange is the small amount I have used it appears to have very little overspary. It seams to only shoot the paint where I aim it, Very Cool!!!

When I pull the trigger the air draws it thru the jet (the trigger opening the jet). It seams to kind pressurize to paint holder just a bit as the draw of the air pulls the rest thru the jet and the pattern is just what is shooting out.

I will post a ton of more stuff on this, but I will say this, I have a Wagner electric painter and this gives you a ton more control and seems so far to have a ton less over spray....

Hope that helps..

DAG
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 05:45 PM
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Cherokee Flyer's Avatar
United States, KS, Rose Hill
Joined Sep 2007
1,004 Posts
Did you Google it?

www.ximbonder.com/products.asp?id=27

L.
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 05:50 PM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
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Originally Posted by Cherokee Flyer View Post
Yep I did...

And found pages just like this one. So many choices, which one is right???

Was just hoping someone had some experience with a sandable water based primer... and does one exist that is easy to sand....

Thanks, DAG
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 06:52 PM
Occupying RCG
olthump's Avatar
United States, MS, Ocean Springs
Joined Sep 2009
1,867 Posts
Dag,

You've probably already considered this, but just in case...

Would simple matte white latex, tinted to suit, work?
Certainly easy to sand.

Rock On, Indeed!,

greg
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 06:54 PM
Cookies Good - Bacon Better
NoMatta's Avatar
Portland, Oregon
Joined Sep 2008
1,618 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dag214 View Post
Ok team... need some help.

I need a easy to sand tint-able water-based polyurethane primer.....

Anything like this exists???

Thanks, DAG
You might give this a look, DAG. Not sure if it's what you are looking for, but I just ran across it.
http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/prod...50231059954365

Been following for a very long time. Greatly appreciate your work

Later on
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 07:21 PM
Pompano Hill Flyer
egras14's Avatar
United States, FL, Fort Lauderdale
Joined Apr 2003
412 Posts
Two questions
1.Why does it have to be tintable?
2.Why do you want a water based primer?
I might be able to help you.
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Old Dec 10, 2011, 08:07 PM
It only takes one good idea
dag214's Avatar
Fishers, Indiana
Joined Oct 2004
6,062 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by egras14 View Post
Two questions
1.Why does it have to be tintable?
2.Why do you want a water based primer?
I might be able to help you.
I need it to be gray. This is so I can etch my panel-lines in my metallic paint and see the gray line. Water-based as I would like to use my spray system and water-based is easy to clean up... I hate solvents..

Thanks, DAG
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