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Old Jan 16, 2009, 09:04 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
25,354 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by venomoussvt
got another question for you guys....

I bought a BnF Mcx because thats all they had instock the other day (which they had the RTF's today ;( )...anywho... I am using my LP5DSM with my Mcx and I must say it binds nicely and works great, however when switching between my cx2 and the Mcx I have to adjust my dip switches every time i switch helis and this aggravates the heck out of me. I want to either get a "bang for your buck" transmitter that will program to multiple heli's (3 tops) or another cheap transmitter for the Mcx only. any suggestion?
The Parkzone Vapor comes with the same TX as the Blade mCX, and you can fly both without switching anything. Otherwise, you're looking at getting a DSM2 radio like the Spektrum DX6i or DX7. I don't recommend the DX5e for helicopter pilots because it can not fly the 6-channel CCPM helicopters... but it would work for the mCX.
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Old Jan 17, 2009, 10:15 AM
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Bill Glover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Bracknell
Joined Nov 2000
11,480 Posts
Value for money you can't beat the Spektrum DX6i, IMO.
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Old Jan 17, 2009, 07:31 PM
RCHN #150
Rickn816's Avatar
Lawrenceville, GA
Joined Nov 2007
5,984 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
Value for money you can't beat the Spektrum DX6i, IMO.
Yep. Unless you gotta have a seventh channel . . .
Rick
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Old Jan 17, 2009, 08:45 PM
Mach 2 with hair on fire!
TeraHurtz's Avatar
Dallas,TX
Joined Dec 2006
344 Posts
Guys,

Need help!

For some reason my MCX has a bad twitch in the tail. It is like when your gyro has to much gain. It will fly but is annoying. I have check for binding and there does not seem to be any. Any suggestions?
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Old Jan 17, 2009, 10:03 PM
Mach 2 with hair on fire!
TeraHurtz's Avatar
Dallas,TX
Joined Dec 2006
344 Posts
Tail wagging on MCX

Quote:
Originally Posted by Piper J3
E-flite 110 mAh LiPo life...

I just had an interesting observation. This past week 1 of the 8 LiPo’s I use for the MCX gave me a short flight time. I time my flights for 6 minutes to never reach low cut-off voltage. The battery in question went into LCV at 3 minut.
Piper J3,

Did you ever get the tail wagging or twitching fixed, and how did you do it?
I have similar problem.

Thanks
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 01:59 AM
Fly it like ya stole it!
USA, OH, Cortland
Joined Aug 2007
276 Posts
I too had "tail Twitch" problem, My Mistake was not letting the Gyro "Initialize" long enuff,, Or not getting the heli in the right position to initialize after plugging Battery in.


BTY: try the "Tenergy" Pack!! It Rocks!! Lots more Flight Itme!
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 07:39 AM
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Angelo's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Nov 1999
2,048 Posts
How long do you let it sit? I turn on the transmitter, wait 5 seconds, then plug in the heli battery and immediately put it on a flat surface. When the heli LED comes on, I start flying a few seconds later. What are you doing differently?
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 10:58 AM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Hinckley, Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
2,376 Posts
MCX Tiny Brite Lights - LED Nav

I installed Tiny Brite Lights LED navigation lights on my MCX. Really cool.

See youtube video and also my post #2707 at Multi Rotor Helis E-flite MCX forum for installation photos.

mCX Lights at Night (1 min 22 sec)
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 11:07 AM
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Bilbobaker's Avatar
United States, UT, Salina
Joined Apr 2003
3,117 Posts
Piper where did you get the strobe?
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 03:17 PM
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goldenite007's Avatar
Dayton, Ohio
Joined Aug 2007
637 Posts
http://flightlights.net/RcHeli.htm
Nanonav
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Old Jan 18, 2009, 06:03 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Hinckley, Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
2,376 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bilbobaker
Piper where did you get the strobe?
It is kit #2012 $19.99 + $5 for shipping. http://flightlights.net/RcHeli.htm Good people...
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 09:44 AM
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HugoCraft's Avatar
United States, KY, Louisville
Joined Sep 2007
2,882 Posts
Okay my mCX has tons of flights on it (80+) and its been banged around a bit and even got mid-aired by a PZ Citabria which just broke the flybar holder on the inner-shaft. Replaced that then I noticed that I when I would go above 50% throttle it wouldn’t climb and just slowly turn to the left. So I figured the Right motor was bad since it wasn’t providing enough rpm to get it to climb. Also when I would test each motor individually the left had more thrust and would attempt to lift off. So I replaced the right motor and now it fly’s correct and climbs like it used to. Only problem is that on both of my batteries I only get 3-4 minute flight times ever since I had the motor problem. I tried my batteries in a new mCX and I get 8-10min flight times. So what could be sucking up the power??????? The old left motor???
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 10:17 AM
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sky guy's Avatar
Missoula, MT
Joined Oct 2001
420 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hugocraft
Okay my mCX has tons of flights on it (80+) and its been banged around a bit and even got mid-aired by a PZ Citabria which just broke the flybar holder on the inner-shaft. Replaced that then I noticed that I when I would go above 50% throttle it wouldn’t climb and just slowly turn to the left. So I figured the Right motor was bad since it wasn’t providing enough rpm to get it to climb. Also when I would test each motor individually the left had more thrust and would attempt to lift off. So I replaced the right motor and now it fly’s correct and climbs like it used to. Only problem is that on both of my batteries I only get 3-4 minute flight times ever since I had the motor problem. I tried my batteries in a new mCX and I get 8-10min flight times. So what could be sucking up the power??????? The old left motor???
After experiencing similar problems, it sounds to me like you need do flow some solder onto the heli's battery connector pins. That mod fixed my 3-4 minute flight times instantly. The directions are listed somewhere back in this thread.
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 04:02 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Hinckley, Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
2,376 Posts
Fix for low flight times

Sky Guy...

You need to disassemble the teeny tiny plug on the Heli first by lifting the plastic locking tangs – one for each pin/wire. Good to have magnifying glass and bright lighting available for this kind of work. Best to make a diagram of black and red wire with respect to red dot on plastic housing so you put it back together with correct polarity, otherwise you’ll probably make toast if you reassemble incorrectly. Now pull the wire/pins out of the plastic housing using small needle nose pliers and/or by pushing on end of pins – you need to experiment here to prevent bending/distorting the pins. At this point you should have individual wires/pins free from the plastic housing. Don’t panic... Use a “C” clamp or alligator clip to hold the wire approximately ½” from the pin and position the pin so that the crimp opening is “up”. This will free-up both of your hands so one hand can hold the soldering iron and other hand to feed solder. Now you are ready to solder. You will need a pencil tip soldering iron as used for circuit board work. Do not use a large soldering iron! If necessary, go to Radio Shack and open your wallet. While you’re at RS pick up some very thin gauge solder and also non-corrosive soldering flux. When iron is fully heated, you’re ready to solder as follows: Unroll a length of solder and dip end into flux – only very small amount of flux needed. Now using standard soldering techniques heat pin with iron and apply small amount of solder/flux first onto the open crimp of pin and then touch the iron to the pin itself in order to “tin” the pin. Pin should be bright and shinny, but without excess solder accumulation. Do both pins and then reinstall into plastic housing with correct polarity. Use needle nose pliers on wire just behind pin to push into housing. It’s OK to break off the plastic locking tangs – pins are a very snug press fit. If tangs break off then you can use a small jeweler flat blade screwdriver and pull/push the pins where the locking tang used to be. Make certain that both bins extend into plastic housing equal length. Doesn’t seem to be a problem if pins extend quite long into the housing. That should do it. Good luck and report back if further help/guidance is needed.
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Old Jan 19, 2009, 07:32 PM
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Bilbobaker's Avatar
United States, UT, Salina
Joined Apr 2003
3,117 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piper J3
It is kit #2012 $19.99 + $5 for shipping. http://flightlights.net/RcHeli.htm Good people...
Thanks for the link.

Pretty cool looking on that little MCX.
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