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Old Dec 16, 2008, 04:31 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by cstratton
What kind of plastic are you using to make the ultimate parts?
Right now I am using a product by smooth on called smooth cast 305. It's like 4500PSI catylist plastic (mix parts A and B). The problem is, that it takes 30 mins before I can demold the part. So that will limit production. Even if I get a benchtop injection molder that heats up plastic pellets and injects it, you can still only make 1 every few minutes or so.
I will probably make several molds so that I can cast at least ten at a time, but mold making is pretty tuff. I've been studying mold making, and there are molds out there that can cost $2,000 to $180,000, and is considered an art.

The video I posted earlier in this thread shows the MCX flying with a swash plate with not as much offset, but gives you a good idea of what is capable. I don't want to do a video until I get the casting right. I want to use the BNF right out of the box to show what is possible. The MCX I am flying now, needs help, as the inner shaft is worn, and the inner shaft motor is worn (I think) I think that motor was never really right. It's funny, after a minute or two of flying, the MCX stops spinning to the right (or left, I cant remember) and no matter which way you push the rudder, it spins the same way. Kind of makes it difficult to fly, reminds me of those cheap RC toys with the one push button controller that when you push it, the car would back up and turn, LOL.

I should have a video in a few days. I will be taking paypal or check or money orders only to start. Looks like snow today here, that gives me more time to work on the project.
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 06:00 AM
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Bill Glover's Avatar
United Kingdom, Bracknell
Joined Nov 2000
11,019 Posts
Wonder how the servos will stand up to the extra load generated by the linkage mods?
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 10:38 AM
Registered User
York, ne
Joined Feb 2005
598 Posts
For those of us having trouble with turning or "outer shaft motor" problems:
(motor on the left as viewed from the rear)
I just found out last night that the collar that holds the entire rotor system tight to the cage has an up and a down.
I bought a used BNF MCX on ebay that was hopped up but had serious stability issues, so I rebuilt it using stock parts.
The problem was, that after the rebuild the bottom rotor wasn't ..quite.. right.
It was a little sticky. After a flight the left motor (looking from the back) was much hotter than the right.
Finally figured out that the shaft collar has a "lip" on one side that should be facing down so that it comes into contact with the inside of the bearing. Once that was done, All my problems have gone away and it's much more stable.
Heads up!
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 10:56 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Glover
Wonder how the servos will stand up to the extra load generated by the linkage mods?
As with any mod, there is always a price to pay. Look at top fuel dragsters, they go a 1/4 mile then blow up. OF course that is extreme comparison, but it is a scale. There is a trade off between durability and longevity, and and performance. Look at the md500 body, it weighs more, and will put a tiny bit of extra strain on the MCX. But so what I say, that's what this hobby is all about. I think most people that mod have two heli's anyway, one for stock, and one for modding.

That being said, I have over 50 flights on mine with the modded swash, and the servos work great. I probably have about 100 crashes too and have only broken the mount that holds the flybar, which was easily glued back in place. My right motor is going bad, but I think it was never really right. I think it is more of a strain on the motors, having to turn the blades against the angle of the swash, and you will be using more throttle to stop once you get going, and oh boy does it get going.

Which leads me to one of my favorite sayings, it is what it is.
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 11:51 AM
Size Matters!
RocketRob's Avatar
San Francisco Bay Area
Joined Dec 2002
2,654 Posts
Finally got around to modding a flybar.
Cut the weights off and drilled through the metal weights and no way would the drill bit follow the carbon flybar through the plastic weight keepers.
I tossed them and used dubro micro tailwheel retainers to hold the metal weights- black and everything.


Having said that, done that and flown that, I think I'll put the stock one back on Made a nice piece of it.....
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 07:52 PM
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United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jan 2005
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I broke a ball off the swash plate today while tinkering, I was able to reglue it just fine, but before putting it back on, I thought I'd try the swash from my currently defunct 5#6. Anyone tried this yet? I had to flip the center plastic peice around, putting it on the bottom, the put the swash on upside down, otherwise the control linkages wouldnt have reached. I made a simple anti rotation stop with some CF, but otherwise it was a pretty straight forward swap.

I used to not like flying with the expo on cause it just didnt have the control I wanted, but now it flys great with the expo, and is quite sensitive with high rates. In fact, I'll have to sand down some of the bottom of the linkages between the swash and the rotor, as the bottom of the cup actually rubs on the swash and binds it up a bit when in full deflection. Its pretty darn fast though.

Since I was canabolizing the 5#6, I borrowed the top rotor spacer and bearing too, no more brass bushing. I canted the RX today as well, and everything together sure made this thing more than what it was. A differant flybar is next on the list, I tried some little paddles (with stock weights) and it made a big differance in speed when in a banking turn. My 20C 100mahs came yesterday, run time is up just a little, but otherwise nearly the same as stock.

Nick
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Old Dec 16, 2008, 11:05 PM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by micro_builder
In fact, I'll have to sand down some of the bottom of the linkages between the swash and the rotor, as the bottom of the cup actually rubs on the swash and binds it up a bit when in full deflection. Its pretty darn fast though.



Nick

My first try with modding the swash plate was to shorten the arms that the servos link to. It resembled the swash you are trying to use. I found it not to work well, as the swash has to tilt too much, and binds too much. I think you've found that out already and have to mod the one you have so that it doesn't rub. The geometry works much better if you extend the balls on the top side, and keep the servo side the stock length.
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Old Dec 17, 2008, 01:57 PM
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micro_builder's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jan 2005
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Yeah, I've flown a few cycles through it and it just binds too much, even after sanding down the cups as much as I dared. Looks like I'll have to make a run to the LHS for a new swash. Too bad they dont carry Micron CX parts...

Nick
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Old Dec 17, 2008, 05:27 PM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by micro_builder
Yeah, I've flown a few cycles through it and it just binds too much, even after sanding down the cups as much as I dared. Looks like I'll have to make a run to the LHS for a new swash. Too bad they dont carry Micron CX parts...

Nick
I am making a new top half for the original swash. When it's ready, you will be able to get it here:
www.APShobbies.com
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Old Dec 17, 2008, 11:53 PM
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New Blaine , AR
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Cool you got your site up . Your well on your way.
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 05:32 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Helichainsaw
Cool you got your site up . Your well on your way.
Thanks! It's been up since Friday, just didn't show it to anyone yet. In between running the business I already have (plumbing HVAC) and trying to make some molds, I had little time to devote to the web-site. Going away for the holidays, but when I come back I am going to be looking into getting an injection machine to hopefully make things easier. If these parts weren't so small, I would have had them ready already. I've made working parts, but they don't look the best, so I am trying to perfect them.

You can check out my clubs web-site that I do, it's www.blackdirtsquadron.org
Anthony
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Old Dec 18, 2008, 10:10 PM
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micro_builder's Avatar
United States, TX, Fort Worth
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antslake
I am making a new top half for the original swash. When it's ready, you will be able to get it here:
www.APShobbies.com
Good to know, thanks for the heads up

I rebroke the ball on my swash, but really didnt want to make the drive to the hobby shop for a new one. Instead I got my little drill set and CF rod out and fixed it for good. I drilled a hole in the end of the broken ball end, and in the end of the broken arm on the swash. Then inserted and glued a peice of CF rod into the ball and arm, and its done. The entire arm would break off before the ball ever does, very strong.

Nick
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Last edited by micro_builder; Dec 18, 2008 at 10:17 PM.
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Old Dec 19, 2008, 03:17 AM
How high will it go?
antslake's Avatar
Greenwood Lake NY
Joined Oct 2003
2,608 Posts
That's awesome. Isn't fun trying to work with such small objects?
Anthony
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Old Dec 19, 2008, 08:03 AM
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Ohio
Joined Aug 2008
1,288 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by micro_builder
I rebroke the ball on my swash, but really didnt want to make the drive to the hobby shop for a new one. Instead I got my little drill set and CF rod out and fixed it for good. I drilled a hole in the end of the broken ball end, and in the end of the broken arm on the swash. Then inserted and glued a peice of CF rod into the ball and arm, and its done. The entire arm would break off before the ball ever does, very strong.

Nick
Thanks ! I'll be bookmarking your post
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Old Dec 20, 2008, 02:14 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Hinckley, Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
2,270 Posts
E-flite 110 mAh LiPo life...

I just had an interesting observation. This past week 1 of the 8 LiPos I use for the MCX gave me a short flight time. I time my flights for 6 minutes to never reach low cut-off voltage. The battery in question went into LCV at 3 minutes. I let battery cool as usual and charged at 1C (I did the CCW pot mod for the E-flite charger) with same results. Used second charger with fresh AAs and still same result. Tried several more times, always with 3 minutes to LCV. Now the good part today I got the bright idea to try this battery in my 2nd MCX which has very little flight time (Im trying to keep this Heli pristine). You guessed it; it flew 6 minutes and no LVC. Go figure! I will try experiment again several more times and report results. My thinking right now is perhaps motors on high time MCX(~25 hours total time) are beginning to draw excess current or maybe friction has developed. I will disassemble this machine and take critical look at rotating parts. Again, Ill report back to the forum community when I have more information.
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