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Old Oct 20, 2008, 06:52 PM
Still AWD, Subaru
St.Louis
Joined Nov 2006
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Jared, did you have to retrim substantially to achieve hover?
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 07:00 PM
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ForceFedDSM's Avatar
Massachusetts
Joined Jun 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnM4kq
Jared, did you have to retrim substantially to achieve hover?
No, just a few clicks if that. Looking at my screen on the dx6i the trim slider is just under center trim on elevator. Improves the FFF speed a lot

Jared
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 07:46 PM
Still AWD, Subaru
St.Louis
Joined Nov 2006
884 Posts
sooo tempting... must resist darkside (aka moding) a little longer
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 08:04 PM
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Aachen, Germany
Joined Jun 2007
646 Posts
Can somebody help me with this:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1204

?
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 08:17 PM
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Kamloops
Joined Dec 2001
6,844 Posts
I would like to get Left and Right (Sideways) a bit faster...any Mods for this?


Mal
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 10:01 PM
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Forney, TX
Joined Mar 2002
15,165 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by superdave420
I know bud, I was agreeing with what you said, just casually meant that if it feels right, run it.

at this scale, getting too into science is a bit of a PITA anyway.
Exactly, this thing is so popular because we don't have to engineer anything or understand the science of it, just open the box and fly I've got enough other stuff that requires advanced understanding, it's nice not to have to think too much on the MCX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spainman
Can somebody help me with this:
Any rudder input speeds one motor up and slows the other down. It's really evident when doing a pyro, you can hear the change in speed of both motors. If they had not done this then any rudder input would result in the heli either gaining or losing altitude and that would not be desirable. Not sure if that extends to the gyro though. The gyro could just be acting on one motor to make minute adjustments even though the rudder acts on both. Do you understand what I mean? I don't know how to test for that, the test you describe really only tests how rudder function impacts the motors (not gyro).

Quote:
Originally Posted by kushal_22
I would like to get Left and Right (Sideways) a bit faster...any Mods for this?
There have been some posts in this thread on modifying the swash for faster FF and RF, the opposite side of the swash could be modded the same for increased L/R cyclic.
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 10:08 PM
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Yet another MCX mod story

Quote:
Originally Posted by kushal_22
I would like to get Left and Right (Sideways) a bit faster...any Mods for this?


Mal
I have two of these little guys, one for keeping stock and the other for doing mods and I finally finished hacking one of them up today to see if I could get it to move a little better.

This heli moves slower in some directions partially because of the poor angled position of the servo to swash connections. I removed the PCB board and cut the frame mounts in half to move the board all the way up against the frame.
This puts the links to the swash much closer to the correct 90 degree position and gives linear swash throw in all directions.

You must remove the lower canopy mounts as well as snip off the lower portion of the aileron servo arm because it will hit the front of the landing gear in the full down position. The battery must also not be pressed into the holder all the way either or it migh contact the servo gears. Some of my batts fit all the way just fine and others are a little close for comfort. Im using a cut down MIA Walkera 4#3 canopy so I didnt need the lower canopy mounts anyway for my application.
CAUTION....the above mod can cost you some expensive parts if you screw up so do this at your own risk!!!!

Next I cut the flybar down much shorter and are using Walkera 4#3 paddles as the 4#3 flybar is the same size.
The shorter, lighter flybar will cause the heli to death roll so I added tiny little ally MIA flybar weights made for the 4#3 as well. The flybar now weighs just a bit over the stock flybar weight but the flybar will not smack the blades no matter what and the shorter flybar takes longer to take the heli back out of FF.

The result is a lot better and faster cyclic commands in all directions with no blade clack no matter how hard I jerk it around. Its not so fast that its no fun but definitely more agile than my stock one.

Here is a very short vid of me slinging it around on purpose after the mods so you can see how much more cyclic response it has. In continuous FF the flybar will eventually catch up and start to pull the heli back just like any other coax will but for living room flying it is plenty enough

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=941580
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 11:02 PM
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Kamloops
Joined Dec 2001
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I Like this idea and solution the best so far. Ussually as soon as i read about one mod i started hacking away. This time i have waited...a whole 3 days
This one is definitly not for the faint of heart but so far it looks to be the best solution as it gives FF BF and R and L better inputs.

Thanks
Mal
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Old Oct 20, 2008, 11:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kushal_22
I Like this idea and solution the best so far. Ussually as soon as i read about one mod i started hacking away. This time i have waited...a whole 3 days
This one is definitly not for the faint of heart but so far it looks to be the best solution as it gives FF BF and R and L better inputs.

Thanks
Mal
I would start with experimenting with the flybar first that way if its not what you like you can replace it easily. Moving the board gave me even cyclic movements in all directions but Im not so sure it did that much for speed. Usually you sacrifice backwards flight to get better FF adjusting the links and now I have good movement in all directions this way.
It just depends on what your really want and how much risk cutting it up
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 06:01 AM
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Aachen, Germany
Joined Jun 2007
646 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tres Wright
Any rudder input speeds one motor up and slows the other down. It's really evident when doing a pyro, you can hear the change in speed of both motors. If they had not done this then any rudder input would result in the heli either gaining or losing altitude and that would not be desirable. Not sure if that extends to the gyro though. The gyro could just be acting on one motor to make minute adjustments even though the rudder acts on both. Do you understand what I mean? I don't know how to test for that, the test you describe really only tests how rudder function impacts the motors (not gyro).
Thank you so far. I described how to test the gyro interaction in 2) but it does not matter if the rudder acts that way. I expected it...will need an additional microcontroller and some calculations.

Ruben
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 07:56 AM
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Stuttgart DE, Austin TX
Joined Jan 2008
23 Posts
Speedy mCX

There have been some proposals to make the mCX more agile. They all suffer
from beeing really effective. Changing the trimming to give more forward
speed will reduce backward speed. Shortening the long horn to the servos at
the swash plate will only give limited results, will increase the net torque
required from the actuators, and may cause the servos to move up against
its limits.

A very effective way to make the helicopter really more agile in all directions
is to place the ball joints for the blade linkage at the swash plate further
to the outside. Increasing the diameter of rotation of the ball joints at the
swash plate will give a greater variation of the pitch-angle of the lower
blades. The result is a really good maneuverabiltity of the heli in all directions.

The modification can be performed quite easily by gluing two additional ball
joints at some distance to the upper cylinder of the swash plate. The sketch
of the upper part of the swash plate should be self explaining. The two
additional ball joints to be glued to the swash plate can be cut out of an old
swash plate (Blade, Walkera...).

As an alternate two small pieces of plastic (apr. 3mm x4mm x1mm each) can
be glued to the swash plate. A small hole will be drilled into them at the hight
of the existing ball joints, where two metal ball joints, taken from an aluminum
swash plate, can be screwed in.

As you can see from the sketch, this leaves the original ball joints in place so
you may switch back to using them later if desired. Also spacing the balls out
further in access of 1mm could eventually require you to extend the "link
anti-rotation guide" to make sure the links still fit into the guides.

Thanks to superdave420 for all the relevant corrections to this posting.
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Last edited by RFpro; Oct 21, 2008 at 08:04 AM.
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 08:07 AM
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ForceFedDSM's Avatar
Massachusetts
Joined Jun 2008
1,715 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFpro
There have been some proposals to make the mCX more agile. They all suffer
from beeing really effective. Changing the trimming to give more forward
speed will reduce backward speed. Shortening the long horn to the servos at
the swash plate will only give limited results, will increase the net torque
required from the actuators, and may cause the servos to move up against
its limits.

A very effective way to make the helicopter really more agile in all directions
is to place the ball joints for the blade linkage at the swash plate further
to the outside. Increasing the diameter of rotation of the ball joints at the
swash plate will give a greater variation of the pitch-angle of the lower
blades. The result is a really good maneuverabiltity of the heli in all directions.

The modification can be performed quite easily by gluing two additional ball
joints at some distance to the upper cylinder of the swash plate. The sketch
of the upper part of the swash plate should be self explaining. The two
additional ball joints to be glued to the swash plate can be cut out of an old
swash plate (Blade, Walkera...).

As an alternate two small pieces of plastic (apr. 3mm x4mm x1mm each) can
be glued to the swash plate. A small hole will be drilled into them at the hight
of the existing ball joints, where two metal ball joints, taken from an aluminum
swash plate, can be screwed in.

As you can see from the sketch, this leaves the original ball joints in place so
you may switch back to using them later if desired. Also spacing the balls out
further in access of 1mm could eventually require you to extend the "link
anti-rotation guide" to make sure the links still fit into the guides.

Thanks to superdave420 for all the relevant corrections to this posting.
Somebody beat you too this back in post 73, nice idea though. What helis swashplate were you planning on getting metal balls from that would fit this heli?
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 08:09 AM
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Joined Dec 2007
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Something similar was done in this thread a week or so ago. Not sure how its holding up though after a few more flights
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=73

Ahh ForceFed beat me!
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 08:11 AM
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ForceFedDSM's Avatar
Massachusetts
Joined Jun 2008
1,715 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
Something similar was done in this thread a week or so ago. Not sure how its holding up though after a few more flights
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=73

Ahh ForceFed beat me!
Great minds think alike
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Old Oct 21, 2008, 09:25 AM
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Stuttgart DE, Austin TX
Joined Jan 2008
23 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
Something similar was done in this thread a week or so ago. Not sure how its holding up though after a few more flights
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=73

Ahh ForceFed beat me!

As compared to the mod described in post #73, there are some differences making the modification more easy to establish and more rugged:

- Taking some care, the mod can be done without disassembling the heli.
- Adding two additional linkage balls gives a very robust construction.
- The mod can easily be switched back.
- Limiting the extension of the balls to apr. 1mm makes an extension of the
guide for the servo links redundant.

I took the metal balls from the servo link of a Walkera 5G6-1 swash plate.
Many other aluminum swash plates have the same size balls at their servo
links.
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Last edited by RFpro; Oct 21, 2008 at 12:39 PM.
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