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Old Jan 18, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Bavaria, about 45km from Neuschwanstein-Castle
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This afternoon weather was bad and snowing. So I started planking one side of my hull with mahagonystripes. These were esspecially made for this project by german specialist for wood, Mr. Heerdegen. Thanks a lot for the fine crafted stripes!
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Old Jan 20, 2009, 12:09 PM
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And some more stripes.
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Old Jan 21, 2009, 05:38 PM
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Today I have had a hard job. I planked the upper stripes to the sides.
The difficulty with the planking is that, that in the front third of the body the strip must stand like a collar upwards outside. I did this with much of white glue at the crossing to normal glued sides and fixed the wood with clamps and ca-glue. Rest of this area will be drilled away with Dr.emel
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Old Jan 24, 2009, 01:53 PM
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This afternoon I did the aft-planking and next step will be sanding, sanding, sanding...
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Old Feb 01, 2009, 01:59 PM
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After sanding one side of the hull I did a first coat with epoxy. But after drying it was a horror to see some light lines and areas. This is coming from the white glue, I pressed between the mahagonystripes.
What can I do now?
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Old Apr 04, 2009, 05:08 PM
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As I have only little time for my very special project, I will show you today the result of searching a leather jacket for the pilot.
My first jacket in grey leather was done by the wife of a friend. He had a similar project, but crashed it at a summershow. The pilot with the shortened legs in the hospital overall spended his grey jacket now to one of my footballers. The second jacket I got today at the AERO, a fair for business and fun airplanes in Friedrichshafen/Lake Constance.
Only bad thing is, that the first owner, a bear, has short arms.
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Old Apr 03, 2010, 07:59 PM
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After a long time of working at other projects and being a little bit ill some weeks, I started again with my wooden boat POSH.
Today I painted the light stripes with a special paint. So it will have a look like original mahagony. After that I did a coat with epoxy.
Next will be to start with the deck construction.
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Old Sep 05, 2010, 07:11 PM
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Here's a pic of some figures sitting in for a test. Found an italian policeman who will become the driver of the POSH. The footballers and Sabrina from "Die wilden Kerle" will get some nice cloths, to fit in the time of 1930...
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 05:58 AM
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Next winter is here!
We have a little bit of snow and it is very cold outside.
So I will start again with the POSH.

Some weeks ago I got an oldtimer car wich will be the "truck" for Posh's trailer. It is a lookalike Mercedes 500K in scale 1/5. My 12" figures will fit in and the model has lights plus simple rc to drive.

Wish all a Nice Chrismas and Happy New Year 2011,

Ernst
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 10:47 AM
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Nice looking Mercedes Ernst. Where have you been for the last couple of months?
I'm interested in knowing what you did to the white glue strips? Were you able to make them disappear?I have the same problem with my planking and the boat I'm working on now will have a lot of mahogany on it.
Cold here in Florida too but probably nowhere near as cold as where you are. Pete
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 06:55 PM
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Hi Pete,

I was busy with a project for a german tv channel.
A friend of mine and I are building a 1,55m model of an italian motoryacht from Depron plates with 2 jetdrives.

The white stripes are away.
For this I sanded away the glue and coloured the areas with a mix of Revell dark red and brown. Revell is the german plastic manufacturer, formerly Revell/Monogram. They have their own plastic colours (enamel paint). You also can use similar paint from Testors or Tamiya, or others.
I paint the colour on with a brush, then rubb away very carefully with a cloth and thinner, to get a paint sheme like natural wood.
After that, the whole surface gets a thin coat of epoxy and noone can see your mistakes. But don't allow visitors to have a look in a 30cm distance.

Greetz,
Ernst
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 09:56 PM
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One thing you can do with white glue (water based) is keep a damp sponge or rag nearby when your gluing the planks. After the planks set you can wipe the glue off with the rag and you won't have that problem. After the glue is dry then use fine sand paper over the area and you shouldn't have any glue discoloration. I had a lot of trouble with the glue on the Dumas tuna clipper but the sponge got most of it off. Pete
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Old Dec 15, 2010, 10:13 PM
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There is also the trick, if you know what color you are going to stain your boat, of mixing matching stain into the glue for your planks.
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Old Dec 16, 2010, 09:23 AM
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Craig that is a brilliant suggestion. I've never heard anyone say that before and it's such a simple solution to the problem. Wouldn't you need a water based stain for that? What stain is water based? How else could you color the glue? Very interesting. Pete
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Old Dec 16, 2010, 08:10 PM
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Pete,

There are a couple of links over in the Woodies Sticky under 'Finishes' but to get more of the info, there is a discussion in the "How do I get this color wash" thread which the following quote is a mere part of...

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig_c View Post
I have not done this (grayed teak) (had no call to... yet), but the theory is based on other woodworking jobs I have done...

OK, first for something like this we need to get away from thinking paints, and start thinking stains and dyes. Instead of thinning paints, trying to getting a semi-transparent surface 'wash' coating; I recommend using dyes, probably at full strength. (I really like W. D. Lockwoods water or alcohol soluble dye powders).

1) Dyes are a transparent medium capable of very deep penetration of the wood substrate.
2) The colors are infinite as they can be mixed to exactly the shade wanted or by application of one color over another (transparent, remember).
3) The 'depth' (saturation) of the color is deepened by multiple applications without changing the base or building up a thick, detail destroying surface coat.
4) Since the Lockwoods’ dyes are supplied as either water or alcohol soluble dyes (1 oz packet makes a quart.) as much or as little as needed can be mixed at a time.
5) These dyes KEEP! Just add more of the appropriate solvent. (I have some deep ‘red mahogany’ stain that was mixed over 20 years ago… used some a couple of months ago, just as fresh as when I mixed it.)
6) Making a wash just means diluting the stock solution.
7) At least to my ol' eyes, these dyes appear to be sunlight fast.

Anyway, a much better set of instructions is here….

Here’s the entire line of colors and

Here is their Silver Gray (#92) which would probably be a good place to start this project after bleaching out with Oxalic acid and maybe lightly wire-brushing the wood to scuff it up (simulated wear & tear).

If you use Mahogany for the decking, you will NOT be able to bleach it using the Oxalic acid bleaches, you will need to use a Hydrogen Peroxide bleach and a neutralizer, the instructions for which may be found here.

Then finish as you usually would finish the deck; though a dull finish would probably be best, maybe a rubbed out (000 or 0000 steel wool) finish.

Oh, one other thing; use gloves… this stuff stains fingers exceptionally well.

By the way... the Mahog alcohol stains can really make some of that cheap hobby store lauan look beautiful and even out the color.
The W.D. Lockwoods powdered water soluble stain (#25 - 'Transparent Medium Red Mahogany,' '#33 - Conc. Dark Reddish Mahogany' or #34 - 'Colonial Red Dark Mahogany' for instance) should work well in water based glues like white or yellow carpenters' glues. Remember to remove any excess drips or oozes before they harden, that chore remains the same. After the hull is sanded and faired, just dye to match as you would normally.

Of course the same trick can be used to create contrasting glue lines between planks, say a blond wood and a black glue.

I haven't tried the alcohol-soluble powdered stains in, say, an epoxy, but they sure do very well in a nitro based lacquer for a transparent color coat.

Now I maybe wrong about this, but the powdered dye that Dumas includes with their kits, sure looks like W.D. Lockwoods dye to me.
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