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Old Jan 30, 2013, 07:12 AM
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Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
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and another option

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Originally Posted by jgalexander View Post
If you want a bit of a hop-up, the Turnigy 3536 is a cheap but good motor. There are a couple options:

The 3536-1000 is cheaper, and you'd need to reverse the motor shaft (easy, takes 5 min, I'd be happy to describe the process to you):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html

The SK3 3536-1050 is a bit more expensive, but it has the motor shaft already reversed, and supposedly is a bit higher quality than the regular Turnigy. Oop, just noticed it's out of stock - you can always put your name on the waiting list. They often get new stuff in stock.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html

I'm sure there are tons of other options, but those are the two that popped to mind for me.
Hope that helps,
Josh
you may consider this too:
i am using this 1 in a plane similar to the rad, with great results:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ner_Motor.html
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socommk23 View Post
does anyone know the glide angle of the radian and radian pro?
I fly the RE Radian and have no experience with the Pro but most comparisons I have seen show the RE model delivering the better glide performance (lowest sink rate), which makes sense because it is lighter and the the wings area is essentially identical. OTOH a skilled pilot that knows how to make best use of the full-house wing-shaping features might be able to milk better thermal duration out of the Pro. (Just my opinion.)

Here is a good comparison writeup:

http://forum.rc-airplane-world.com/v...hp?f=42&t=2011
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:05 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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The Pro flies quite a bit faster, and comes down sooner. If you were to add ballast to the Radian to make them the same weight, the Radian would probably glide a little flatter because it has less drag. Maybe somebody with an altimeter will give us some sink rate numbers.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Jovanx View Post
The Pro flies quite a bit faster, and comes down sooner. If you were to add ballast to the Radian to make them the same weight, the Radian would probably glide a little flatter because it has less drag. Maybe somebody with an altimeter will give us some sink rate numbers.
The heavier plane will have the highest sink rate in feet per minute but might have equal or lower rate in feet per mile, because the heavier plane will travel farther in the same time interval.

Meaningful comparison of flight data recordings would be difficult unless they were made simultaneously under the same conditions.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:35 AM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
The heavier plane will have the highest sink rate in feet per minute but might have equal or lower rate in feet per mile, because the heavier plane will travel farther in the same time interval.
That is true for sure. One might be better for thermal duration and the other would be better for cross country, so it all depends on what your expectations are. As far as sink rate numbers go, I am only looking for rough numbers (is it closer to 100 or closer to 150? 200?) I guess it's time to put an altimeter on my wish list.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by maharaja View Post
Can anybody recomend a suitable replacement motor for the redian from hobbyking?
Be aware that the OEM Radian motor has a 4mm shaft diameter and a 25mm x 25mm mounting hole pattern when you search for replacements. IIRC the HK units have a different mounting pattern (25mm x 19mm or? but not specified by HK) which can be accommodated with adapters or your own ingenuity. These work well but add to the cost and grief.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
Be aware that the OEM Radian motor has a 4mm shaft diameter and a 25mm x 25mm mounting hole pattern when you search for replacements. IIRC the HK units have a different mounting pattern (25mm x 19mm or? but not specified by HK) which can be accommodated with adapters or your own ingenuity. These work well but add to the cost and grief.
I have no trouble mounting the Turnigy motors and have not found it necessary to reverse shafts. I mount them behind the plastic cowl using the provided X-mount, with a disk of 1/8" plywood in between for added strength, using 4-40 machine screws inserted through the cooling slots. No added cost or grief.

My current motor is a C3530-1100 but that one has been superceded by the D3530/14-1100. An alternate is the NTM PropDrive 3530 which is a little heavier, but both are lighter than the stock motor and develop more power. Both are normally stocked in the USA warehouse.
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Last edited by kaptondave; Jan 30, 2013 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 06:38 PM
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Kaptondave, thanks a lot for the info on motors. What folding props and spinners do you use with these motors? Anything from HK?
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:32 PM
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Parkzone Radian's Cloud Solitude (11 min 7 sec)
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 11:23 PM
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Many thanks for the motor info, I'll try a light motor that will help getting the CG back. keep the suggestion up, Many thanks
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by rajeevmk View Post
Kaptondave, thanks a lot for the info on motors. What folding props and spinners do you use with these motors? Anything from HK?
I tried using a 50 mm aluminum yoke and spinner assembly from Cermark because of stories of the stock plastic spinner cracking and throwing props. The aluminum is obviously stronger but also heavier, requiring that I add useless ballast to the tail for balance, so I have gone back to stock.

I am using a Graupner 10 x 8 folding prop with 6 mm shoulders. That fits the plastic hub but needs the holes drilled out to 3 mm to match the stock pins. I also added a thin washer to each blade for a better fit.

The stock hub and spinner have the prop pivot point inside the spinner while the Cermark and BB aluminum ones have them outside. I think the stock one provides better streamlining but Graupners do not fold completely back before the trailing edge hits the cowl on one side. It is just a little off so I am not concerned. The 10 x 8 pulls noticeably harder and climbs faster than stock. With a freshly charged battery it draws slightly more amps than the motor spec allows but drops quickly as the top charge burns off.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:28 PM
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post photos?

Someone please remind me where the instructions are for how to post photos here?
TIA
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MrBlu View Post
Someone please remind me where the instructions are for how to post photos here?
TIA
Click on "Manage Attachments" in additional options below the message post window, click Choose File and then Upload.

Works fine, lasts a long time.
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Old Feb 03, 2013, 06:15 PM
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Since no one else has posted any vids in a while, I thought that I'd brighten everyones spirits with one of my own. Enjoy!
Parkzone Radian's Frigid Flight (5 min 14 sec)
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Old Feb 04, 2013, 01:35 PM
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United States, NC, Raleigh
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Radian with Eagle Tree Guardian

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Originally Posted by JayY View Post
I decided not to try the Orange RX 3 axis flight stabilizer on my Radian. Instead I've purchased and installed an Eagle Tree Guardian. I've configured it so that I can turn it on and off and switch its modes between 2D and 3D from the transmitter. The Guardian's instructions for 3 channel airplanes are to connect the aileron output of the receiver to the aileron input of the stabilizer and the rudder servo to the aileron output of the stabilizer. I've got the direction of compensation correct for both the rudder and elevator, I'm just not sure about the magnitude, that will require flight tests and adjustments to get it tuned. There looks to be a stretch of good flying weather next week, I will let you know how it goes.
The weather last week was not good for flying, way too windy, this week looks much better. I was able to fly my Radian with the Eagle Tree Guardian on board this morning and it works very well. Normally on a Radian without a Guardian installed, WOT results in pitching up the nose so much that the plane will make a large loop, some down elevator must be applied to climb at a sustainable rate.

With the Guardian in 2D mode, WOT results in the plane flying very fast but still level, the nose doesn't pitch up at all. If you want the Radian to climb, you just need to apply a little up elevator. Centering the TX stick in 2D mode always results in the plane flying straight and level, no matter what attitude it was in before the TX stick was centered.

No auto level in 3D mode, it's auto attitude instead. The climb is different than when in 2D mode, you set your desired climb angle using the elevator and then you center the TX stick and it climbs at that angle straight as an arrow until you touch the stick again. Very cool!

The wind picked up while flying and I could see the Guardian fighting it, especially when I brought the Radian in for a landing. While it smooths things out and reduces pilot workload when flying in windy conditions, I'm sure that video recorded from the plane while passing through turbulence would still look jerky. Smooth video requires a calm day and a gentle touch on the TX sticks, and there's no getting around that, even with a fancy flight stabilizer on board.
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Last edited by JayY; Apr 15, 2013 at 07:36 PM.
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