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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:55 AM
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Yes, I am coming to that conclusion. I am using a DX6i.
Thanks to all who gave me some ideas here.

John
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John63 View Post
Yes, I am coming to that conclusion. I am using a DX6i.
Thanks to all who gave me some ideas here.

John
Don't give up hope yet. The Radian is only a 3 channel airplane, so a 4 channel receiver should still give you options for throttle on a switch. I also have a DX6i and have been thinking about trying it. Here's a question...when you have the esc plugged into something other than the throttle channel, do the elevator and rudder work, or do you get nothing?

I wouldn't give up on that 6255 receiver either. You may have to cut some foam but there must be a way to make it fit. That receiver has a couple of advantages over the lower end Spektrum receivers that make it ideally suited for sailplanes. One is the long antenna leads, so the antennas can be brought out to the outside of the fuselage. The other is that it has programmable failsafes. The 600 and the 6210 only have failsafe on the throttle.
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Jovanx
thanks for your offer.

I just hooked it up in three different ways. Yes, the elevator and rudder in all three slots But when the lead from the ESC is in all but the throttle slot I do not get the "fully armed" tone of the 3 rising notes.

John
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 01:04 PM
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You would probably need to re-bind after moving the esc wire to some other channel. The binding process sets the zero point for future throttle arming, as well as the failsafe. Does it successfully bind with the wire in another slot?
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Jovanx, I just tried binding in the rudder slot and it would bind but I could not get the motor to come on. It would not do the full "arming" of the system. I did notice that both the instructions for the Rx and the Tx say that the ESC should be plugged into the throttle. I had read this before but on previous planes it seemed to be variable in what you could do. I will live with this the way it is.

Thanks again to all who contributed. John
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John63 View Post
I tried what you said but nothing changes. I have the "travel adjust" set at 50% so that in theory the motor will only rev up that much when I switch to "gear".
Try setting the travel adjust to 100%. The ESC is picky about the throttle signal being as low as possible when you plug in the battery, otherwise it won't arm.

--[Lance]
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:25 AM
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Recalibrate the ESC, it should work then.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Loose Prop

Guys, yesterday after puting a new motor in my Radian, I took it out for a maiden flight. Every thing went well until I got about 100 feet up, then the prop came out.
Fortunately I was able to recover it.

When I took it apart I found that the grub screw was loose. I had tightened it as tight as I could get it before assembling the rest of the prop system..

I was wondering what solutions any of you may have for this issue? I am thinking about using some CA on the motor shaft. What do you think.

Bob
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strawcuter View Post
Guys, yesterday after puting a new motor in my Radian, I took it out for a maiden flight. Every thing went well until I got about 100 feet up, then the prop came out.
Fortunately I was able to recover it.

When I took it apart I found that the grub screw was loose. I had tightened it as tight as I could get it before assembling the rest of the prop system..

I was wondering what solutions any of you may have for this issue? I am thinking about using some CA on the motor shaft. What do you think.

Bob
I have 2 questions that might help to figure out what went wrong...
1 was the new motor a stock RP motor?
2 was the grub screw set into the flat part on the motor shaft?

Good on you for being able to bring it down safely after such a sudden in-flight failure! It's great to be heads-up and calm when things go wrong.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Radio.Active View Post
If you used a new motor without a flat spot on the shaft, or if you tightened the grub screw onto the round part of the shaft of the OEM Radian motor rather than aligning it to seat into the flat spot, this will happen.

Don't use CA as you might want to get it off later

You can grind a flat spot with a dremel . Here are some methods http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=395691 or use a new spinner with a collett rather than the grub screw.

http://youtu.be/h4S9gxzQ39g
If you decide to stay with the screw, you need to use a thread locker to make sure that the screw never loosens. Use the blue variety, it is designed to release. As mentioned before, don't use CA.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_l...r-Blue-242.htm

Cliff
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Be careful to not get Loctite on the plastic parts of the spinner. It will cause failure in time.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
Be careful to not get Loctite on the plastic parts of the spinner. It will cause failure in time.
A dab of Canopy Glue works well and lets you remove without too much effort.
Tim
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Apply the LocTite to the threads, not the top of the tightened screw. It is a "thread" locker.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Foambird View Post
Apply the LocTite to the threads, not the top of the tightened screw. It is a "thread" locker.
Loc Tite will destroy plastic there is a lot on issues on this site where it has destroped motor and gear plastic mounts.

I use canopy glue because it is water based and will not attack plastic. A little on threads going in works well if you have access you can put a dab on protruding threads fir extra insurance. Just a word of caution on using loctite on plastic.
Tim
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