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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post

The problem was cause by a cracked horizontal stabilizer and elevator. No idea what caused the crack but it went all the way across the HS and elevator, leaving the elevator drooped in a nose-down position and cocked to one side. I am making a temporary repair with epoxy and pop-cycle sticks so will be back in the air shortly.

Just one more thing to check for in the pre-flight.
Interesting that it got the elevator too.
Was it close to the fuse or further out?
Was it on the side of the control horn?

I've noticed that there is considerable flexing at the joiner when the elevator is moving. I wonder if over time that flexing caused a crack?
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 06:17 PM
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Windsor, Canada, near Detroit
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it could be. the way the plane comes, the elevator and the stab get under pressure from the stab pushrod, that is not aligned with the horn. it has to be bent in a 'z' shape so there is no stress. this could be the reason. nothing else comes to mind.
(by the way, the rudder pushrod is also a little bit out of alignment, but that takes just a little bend to align it).
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 07:02 PM
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The stock pushrods are very poorly aligned. This can be significantly improved when installing goldenrods or similar and installing balsa supports at the aft end. The horns are very poorly aligned with the direction of the pushrods which can only be corrected by using ball joints as seen in the attached photos. This also minimizes the side loading on the horns which frees up the servo loads and puts much less push and twist on the aft end of the fuselage. With the stock setup this problem causes elevator servo motions to bend the fuselage and give rudder motion as well.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 12:51 AM
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Australia
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Hello again everyone, I've been quiet for some time now. Since I have made up some lights and successfully flow at night, and have mounted my remote reciever under the right wing. But now I have yet another question, my radian when it is sitting on a flat surface always tilts towards the wing with the large "radian" sticker on it, is this ok or should I look into fixing this?
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 01:06 AM
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I think it is a bit much to expect a flying beer cooler to sit perfectly level at rest. I don't think even the high end gliders do that.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Raften View Post
I think it is a bit much to expect a flying beer cooler to sit perfectly level at rest. I don't think even the high end gliders do that.

Ok thanks raften I just wanted to check.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 02:33 AM
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United States, NH, Londonderry
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Any hope of a Radian II...on the "Horizon"..?

The Standard Radian has been out awhile now....

After owning (2) Standard Radian's and (1) Pro I was wondering if anyone has heard anything about a Radian II (newer standard Radian) coming anytime in the future.

Just saw Paul Naton's great Radian mods video...it got me to thinking about PZ releasing a Radian II. Would love to see them stiffen up the fuselage and tail section a bit.

Is there any hope....maybe within the next year or so?

Thanks,
-mike-

Paul's Video:
Parkzone RADIAN Modification Clinic.mp4 (31 min 53 sec)
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by boiko View Post
Would love to see them stiffen up the fuselage and tail section a bit.
I believe that you can do a better job of stiffening it up than they can. The weak points of this plane have all been discovered by the school of hard knocks, and effective solutions have been found, and they work. If HH came out with a version-2 model, it would be a whole new learning curve and it would not be perfect.

The reason you can do a better job, it because you are not constrained by the cost-benefit process that governs their business. You can spend the time and money to make it fly the way you want it to. Of course, there are many people who believe it is already perfect enough, and who believe that we mod this plane simply to satisfy our own desires to change things, or to fly it outside it's intended flight envelope. Fortunately we still live in a world where people are entitled to their beliefs, and they are just as right as I am.

The beauty of the situation is...that in the end, we all get what we want from this plane. Me...I like to mod things, and also to make them perform beyond what the manufacturer intended. It's all good.
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 07:20 PM
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United States, IA, Des Moines
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Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
The stock pushrods are very poorly aligned. This can be significantly improved when installing goldenrods or similar and installing balsa supports at the aft end. The horns are very poorly aligned with the direction of the pushrods which can only be corrected by using ball joints as seen in the attached photos. This also minimizes the side loading on the horns which frees up the servo loads and puts much less push and twist on the aft end of the fuselage. With the stock setup this problem causes elevator servo motions to bend the fuselage and give rudder motion as well.

The first thing Eckace and I- and others do when we get a radian- is to move that elevator control horn in to line up with the control rod- it sure is easy and works great- no ball joints- no Z bends- just move it....although your setup looks really cool..
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by scottdearinger View Post
The first thing Eckace and I- and others do when we get a radian- is to move that elevator control horn in to line up with the control rod- it sure is easy and works great
Moving it is not an attractive option IMO. The stock offset is because of the rudder cutout. If it is simply moved inboard there is less material to support it so it is more likely to tear out of the foam. Gold-n-Rods have a lot less friction and work well with the stock offset.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:55 AM
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United States, IA, Des Moines
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[QUOTE=kaptondave;22873212]
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottdearinger View Post
The first thing Eckace and I- and others do when we get a radian- is to move that elevator control horn in to line up with the control rod- it sure is easy and works great QUOTE]Moving it is not an attractive option IMO. The stock offset is because of the rudder cutout. If it is simply moved inboard there is less material to support it so it is more likely to tear out of the foam. Gold-n-Rods have a lot less friction and work well with the stock offset.
well been flying 2 radians for a year and never had a tear out issue- or an issue with rudder conflict.... just saying it works great- and it is cheap and easy- i do of course change the stock connectors out with dubro's... we all have our methods
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 12:06 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by Vortex000111 View Post
Hello again everyone, I've been quiet for some time now. Since I have made up some lights and successfully flow at night, and have mounted my remote reciever under the right wing. But now I have yet another question, my radian when it is sitting on a flat surface always tilts towards the wing with the large "radian" sticker on it, is this ok or should I look into fixing this?
I didn't have this problem with the Radian, but did with the Radian Pro. I spent way too much time trying to figure out why it wouldn't glide straight hands-off. No amount of rudder or aileron trim ever seemed to totally fix it. Eventually, I realized one wing was 4-1/2 grams heavier than the other one. A quarter taped to the underside of the light wing did the trick. There are many things about this plane that can never be perfect, but lateral balance is not one of them.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
Moving it is not an attractive option IMO. The stock offset is because of the rudder cutout. If it is simply moved inboard there is less material to support it so it is more likely to tear out of the foam. Gold-n-Rods have a lot less friction and work well with the stock offset.
The issue of the narrow "waist" in the middle of the elevator goes beyond horn placement and beyond the Radian as well. All of the Parkzone planes are weak in this area and people have fixed it with various methods. Here is the one I use on all the planes. I got the idea from a guy on the Mustang thread.

Strengthening this weak spot has less to do with preventing breakage, and more to do with the flying experience. By transferring the torque across the weak spot, it gives you more control at every moment, whether thermaling, hand-catching, or fighting gusty winds on the landing approach.

A slot is cut into the elevator foam, so the wire ends up being about 2/3 embedded and 1/3 exposed. Other people have used plywood to achieve the same effect. There is no such thing as having too much control of your elevator or your rudder, especially on a 3-channel plane.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaptondave View Post
Moving it is not an attractive option IMO. The stock offset is because of the rudder cutout. If it is simply moved inboard there is less material to support it so it is more likely to tear out of the foam. Gold-n-Rods have a lot less friction and work well with the stock offset.
The narrowed elevator section is a valid concern even if you don't move the control horn. This is how I solved it. In this case I moved the control horn, but stiffening would be a good idea even if you don't as there is considerable flex. The Dubro connector works well, but a clevis would have been an even better choice.

Cliff
.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 08:03 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
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Originally Posted by cliffkot View Post
The narrowed elevator section is a valid concern even if you don't move the control horn. This is how I solved it.
Good job cliffkot! I am sure your solution works as well as mine. It's great to know that others have seen this obvious weakness and have solved it in their own way. Even a blob of bubble-gum, strategically placed, would be an improvement over the stock design.
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