+1 to RA's reply. Your battery should not come back from a flight with that much imbalance and should be replaced. You are using a good charger and balancer with the FMA unit so it's reasonable to expect your battery to discharge close to equally from each cell during your flight.

Originally Posted by Norm62

I use this device http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=10343. It has always worked and never given me any problems or created any type of conflict with other radio gear. It provides live feedback and has programable alarms. I always land once the alarm sounds for any cell hitting my chosen alarm voltage. My batteries always come down at a storage level of between 3.7 and 3.8 this way. I use the flexible antenna http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10896 most of the time and between it and the stock antenna, have never had a problem finding a way to fit it in my planes. IMO the weight is negligible, considering the benefits. There is an add on module http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11251 that will also monitor temp and amps. I have it but almost never use it. In applications where space is just too tight, I manage to find a way to put this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=18588 in somewhere and fly close enough to be abe to hear the alarm go off at my chosen preset voltage. I have never had an emergency situation due to a battery problem since using these devices. Its cheap (and yes cheaply made), but it works perfectly for me. I have one on each of my radios and have 2 TX units to move between planes. Hope this helps. Good Luck!

Norm

am editing this as i don't get several things. thanks for your input. i wonder if you could help telling us the weight and dimensions of the receiver-and whatever fits into the plane. i don't see that in the specs:
Specification.
Tx Weight: 16g
Tx Size: 50x17.5mm
Tx Output: 20dBm <100mW 2.4Ghz DSSS
FCC ID: XR9V003
Firmware: 3.0.0.0

Included.
Large high contrast 132x64 pixel LCD 2.4Ghz Receiver. (V2)
1km Range 1~6S Transmitter (V2)
Receiver mount (universal type)
Cigarette lighter 5v out USB charger
USB cable. (Charge in car or on a PC)
CE, FCC, RoHS
Note: Current/temp sensor sold separately.

Whats new in V3.0
Show Temperature in centigrade or Fahrenheit
Battery capacity (Used/remaining)
Adjustable low voltage alarm

is the receiver all that fits in the plane? any sensors? if so, do they come with the set? and the alarm: i guess it sounds in the transmitter?
from the video i see the guy plugging an antenna to the receiver, but this is not shown on the list of contents. and if i need this for another plane, what i need to buy? i guess a receiver and the antenna (and what else?), but where can i find this? a link? how much per plane?
also, from the hk catalog i see this http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mp_Amp_V2.html advertised as 'transmitter'. perhaps they name it this way because it 'transmits' data from the plane to the transmitter in your hands? but, is it needed besides your own receiver that you use to fly the plane? i guess so.
thanks for your help.

and thank you all guys with all the advice. sure that pack with an inbalanced cell needs replacement.
thanks again.

Phil,
I sent you a couple of videos by PM. It's a very complete 2 part review of the product that explains and demonstrates the system. For the $50, you get everything you need. The flexible antenna for the small transmitter that you attach to the battery can be purchased for about another $5 and just makes it easier to fit in tight spaces. You really don't need to buy the add-on Temp / amp draw module if all you want to do is monitor battery voltage. I leave the Receiver (read out screen) on my radio and move the small transmitter from plane to plane. -Norm

Originally Posted by phil alvirez

...is the receiver all that fits in the plane? any sensors? if so, do they come with the set? and the alarm: i guess it sounds in the transmitter?

The component that installs in the plane is the transmitter. The receiver is in the display unit that mounts on your RC transmitter.

Where are the flashing lights?

Originally Posted by Jovanx

At first I couldn't figure out what the holes in the wings were for. I thought maybe they were to let air out as you are shoving the spar into the wing, but the Radian Pro doesn't have them. Then I realized they must be there for holding the wings on, since there didn't seem to be anything else holding them.

I know there's this other guy on the net who uses bungee cords, but I just thought I would share this picture of a different way to do it. The hooks can be easily separated for transport.

I'm inspired. I think I'll scratch build a glider entirely from duct tape.

Originally Posted by Norm62

Phil,
I sent you a couple of videos by PM. It's a very complete 2 part review of the product that explains and demonstrates the system. For the $50, you get everything you need. The flexible antenna for the small transmitter that you attach to the battery can be purchased for about another $5 and just makes it easier to fit in tight spaces. You really don't need to buy the add-on Temp / amp draw module if all you want to do is monitor battery voltage. I leave the Receiver (read out screen) on my radio and move the small transmitter from plane to plane. -Norm

thanks, Norm. i saw them and am beginning to see the light.
and forgot that on telemetry the thing that goes into the plane is the transmitter and the 1 at the radio is the receiver.

Originally Posted by Jovanx
'At first I couldn't figure out what the holes in the wings were for. I thought maybe they were to let air out as you are shoving the spar into the wing, but the Radian Pro doesn't have them. Then I realized they must be there for holding the wings on, since there didn't seem to be anything else holding them'
I know there's this other guy on the net who uses bungee cords, but I just thought I would share this picture of a different way to do it. The hooks can be easily separated for transport'.


after i saw this i have to tell you that, from my experience, i don't think it is necessary to use anything extra to hold the wings. they hold right by pressure. when i 1st saw the plane from a friend at the field, he told me that it does not need anything more as the pressure holds them fine, so am doing it that way and it works for me. besides, the instructions don't mention using anything else.

As they get older you need to have a way to hold the wings in place.

Originally Posted by Raften

As they get older you need to have a way to hold the wings in place.

yeah. maybe then adding a thin coat of some adhesive to the rod could do?
i have done this to other planes.
i'll see how this evolves.

I have over 100 hours on my original shipment Radian (per the tranny timer) and the wings stay on just fine without anything except a press fit.

Originally Posted by JumpySticks

I'm inspired. I think I'll scratch build a glider entirely from duct tape.

See you on Myth Busters

http://airpigz.com/blog/2011/10/21/m...-4-videos.html

See more here: http://jameswiebe.blogspot.ca/2011/1...roduction.html

I bought Radian PNP version two years ago and was very satisfied. The climb is almost vertical, and overall flying characteristics are very good. My Kokam 3S 1500mAh 20C gave about one hour of flying time with 3-5 climbs, so I was very happy.

However, couple days ago my happiness was terminated During last flight session, about 3-4 sec after launch, engine lost 2/3 of thrust and sound became similar to gritting... I immediatelly moved throttle stick to zero and managed to land - fortunately servos worked properly. First thing I discovered was a smell of burned electronics and my first thought was: "good bye ~$45 for new engine". But after close look I found that actually ESC was burned out.

Now I'm just curious: the two burned chips differ from the rest, was it a reason? At least what I can see is that burned ones have marking P737T while the others have P702H sign.


Today I have two options for replacement: Turnigy Plush 30A and CC Phoenix 25 (~10 years old). Could you please suggest which one would be better in my case?

Thanks,
Alexander.

I would go with the Turnigy Plush because of the 30A current rating. I think the 25A unit would be too small. What was the rating of the unit that fried? Are you using a stock propeller?