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Old Apr 07, 2011, 10:45 AM
Curtis
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Nampa, Idaho
Joined Apr 2010
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Are there any must-do mods that should be done right out of the box? Either know issues or problem areas?

Curtis
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:06 AM
Rocket geek
Highlands Ranch, CO
Joined Dec 2007
651 Posts
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Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
Are there any must-do mods that should be done right out of the box? Either know issues or problem areas?

Curtis
Must-dos, no.

Probably should dos:
-Replace the thumbscrew push rod connectors with Dubro EZ-links or similar, since the thumbscrews have a tendency to break when exposed to sneezes or butterflies passing too close.
-Put some dark paint or wide trim tape on the wing undersides for better visibility
-Check your rudder hinge for the foam cracking and/or the tape coming loose

Should only do for crash resistance:
-Reinforce the wing saddle with some reinforced packing tape or carbon tow
-Once crashes/bad landings have loosened your wings, put 2 rare earth magnets on the ends of each wing root to keep them together.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by suseuser View Post
Are there any must-do mods that should be done right out of the box? Either know issues or problem areas?

Curtis
Rudder + elevator clevises are the weak points. I've fixed the rudder with extra loctite and upgraded the elevator to a spring loaded Sullivan 'snap' type to keep the portability.

The wingsaddle is shockingly soft IMO, I didn't dare to fly it before I reinforced it, carbon spar, roving, glassfiber, or simply glasfiber tape are the usual way of doing it. You have plenty of experience with high altitude visibility, the stock stickers + white foam aren't the optimum solution, as you shall seen soon

Having read most of the thread, only the elevator clevis has caused carnage, and the wing saddle, but that shouldn't be a problem in calm conditions.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:17 AM
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USA, CA, Pismo Beach
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Are there any must-do mods that should be done right out of the box? Either know issues or problem areas?

Curtis
I would say No. It's not clear if you have your Radian yet or are about to get it, but first impressions are that it's a little "flexible". This annoyed me enough that I have applied carbon tow along the sides of the fuselage (on my 3rd fuselage) to make it a little more rigid. But I would be quick to add that the Radian fly's perfectly well right out of the box. A more common complaint has been regarding the pushrod quick connects on the empanage being fragile. I personally have never had one fail but they do look puny. I was finally influenced by the complaints and changed mine out, more as a knee jerk reaction. But it's cheap insurance against potentially catastrophic consequence.

Enjoy
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:41 AM
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No "musts-dos" but I am a believer in adding a way to make the wing-joining more secure, just for peace-of-mind. I have used Velcro tape for that, using a strip of nylon ribbon extending through the wing saddle with Velcro tabs on the ends. I also tried magnets but had trouble getting them to stick to the foam.

I recently found a better way to go with the magnets. K&J Magnetics has some 3/8" annular magnets with counter-sunk screw holes that work great. I glued a short length of wood dowel in the ends of the wings and screwed the magnets to those.

http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=R622CS-P

I have also added stiffening the the fuselage and the wing saddle, again as peace-of-mind. In spite of that the fuselage snapped just behind the wing in a crash. That seems to be a common failure mode.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 11:42 AM
Curtis
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Nampa, Idaho
Joined Apr 2010
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Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
I would say No. It's not clear if you have your Radian yet or are about to get it, but first impressions are that it's a little "flexible". This annoyed me enough that I have applied carbon tow along the sides of the fuselage (on my 3rd fuselage) to make it a little more rigid. But I would be quick to add that the Radian fly's perfectly well right out of the box. A more common complaint has been regarding the pushrod quick connects on the empanage being fragile. I personally have never had one fail but they do look puny. I was finally influenced by the complaints and changed mine out, more as a knee jerk reaction. But it's cheap insurance against potentially catastrophic consequence.

Enjoy
I just ordered the Radian. So, I haven't had a chance to look it over. I am a little concerned about the visibility factor. I don't understand the reasoning behind a mostly all white glider against a cloud background. As a rule gliders tend to be a considerable distance away. Bright contrasting colors with left or right wing indicators are the norm for most gliders/sailplanes. I've had quite a few times I have lost the orientation of an aircraft. Those cases where I waited just a little too long to get turned up wind because I got all excited about hooking a thermal. Strong thermal + Downwind in a strong wind equals bad medicine.

I'll check out my LHS for new connectors for the elevator and rudder. The standard connectors look like the same ones they use on the HobbyZone Mini Cub. I pretty much Loctite all my screws and connectors. So, I rarely have something just come loose. This obsession with Loctite comes from flying Heli's.

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Old Apr 07, 2011, 12:13 PM
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USA, CA, Pismo Beach
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I just ordered the Radian. So, I haven't had a chance to look it over. I am a little concerned about the visibility factor. I don't understand the reasoning behind a mostly all white glider against a cloud background. As a rule gliders tend to be a considerable distance away. Bright contrasting colors with left or right wing indicators are the norm for most gliders/sailplanes. I've had quite a few times I have lost the orientation of an aircraft. Those cases where I waited just a little too long to get turned up wind because I got all excited about hooking a thermal. Strong thermal + Downwind in a strong wind equals bad medicine.

I'll check out my LHS for new connectors for the elevator and rudder. The standard connectors look like the same ones they use on the HobbyZone Mini Cub. I pretty much Loctite all my screws and connectors. So, I rarely have something just come loose. This obsession with Loctite comes from flying Heli's.

Curtis
You are absolutely correct about contrasting colors on the bottom. I used black invasion stripes on mine. But remember that getting downwind isn't that big a problem having a motor available for emergency returns

When you see the pushrod connectors I think you'll see that their size is what makes them suspect. I believe that most failures have been because of over tightening causing them to fracture. BTW don't get Loctite on your plastic control arms - they will apparently fracture with time.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 12:20 PM
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Bright contrasting colors with left or right wing indicators are the norm for most gliders/sailplanes.
I believe you will fin that left-right color differential is a waste of effort because you cannot differentiate between colors at great distance. I have done some experimenting and have concluded that the most effective color scheme is a solid dark color on the bottom. Black is the most effective.

The hardest attitude for me to track the plane in is when it is flying across my line of sight so that a side view of the fuselage is all that I have. The fuselage is so slim that even painting it a solid dark color might not help much.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 12:40 PM
Curtis
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Nampa, Idaho
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I believe you will fin that left-right color differential is a waste of effort because you cannot differentiate between colors at great distance. I have done some experimenting and have concluded that the most effective color scheme is a solid dark color on the bottom. Black is the most effective.

The hardest attitude for me to track the plane in is when it is flying across my line of sight so that a side view of the fuselage is all that I have. The fuselage is so slim that even painting it a solid dark color might not help much.
Yea, I guess I should have been a little more clear on putting a colored stripe on only one of the wings. Similar to my Spirit.



Black and yellow make a great contrast. It can be seen from a long way off. And you can tell up from down and the direction of travel. I also avoid flying directly away from my line of sight or directly overhead. S-turns seem to really help with lift indication and visibility in general. I got that tip from the, "Old Buzzard's Soaring Book". I struggle getting out of the habit of flying the dimensions of the field instead of the dimensions of the sky. If that makes any sense.

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Old Apr 07, 2011, 01:22 PM
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Houston, TX, US
Joined Jun 2000
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Curtis, since you've been flying non-electric sailplanes, I'd just caution to be a little careful on launch. I keep the power fairly low and am ready to use some down elevator on launch and am careful not to over control. Once I gain altitude, I feel better with adding some more power. I wiped out one fuse last year when I got a little overly ambitious with power into a nice wind and ended up looping over into the ground in back of me. I think you'll enjoy the Radian. A lot of bang for the buck for a sailplane, IMHO.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 01:31 PM
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United Kingdom, Stoke-on-Trent
Joined Jul 2010
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Can anyone give me any links for the elevator/rudder clevises that fit the radian push rods sounds a worthy mod imo

Thanks
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 01:44 PM
Curtis
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Nampa, Idaho
Joined Apr 2010
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Curtis, since you've been flying non-electric sailplanes, I'd just caution to be a little careful on launch. I keep the power fairly low and am ready to use some down elevator on launch and am careful not to over control. Once I gain altitude, I feel better with adding some more power. I wiped out one fuse last year when I got a little overly ambitious with power into a nice wind and ended up looping over into the ground in back of me. I think you'll enjoy the Radian. A lot of bang for the buck for a sailplane, IMHO.
Thanks for the tip. I planned on tossing it like a conventional glider at first with no power. Plenty of test glides to get the trim right. Then adding just a bit of power for gradual climb. I don't get all excited about having a plane go vertical. Plus, I would like to maximize the battery time. I've always wondered if it's best to run full power to get to altitude then chop the throttle. Or make a gradual ascent. One uses more power over a shorter time and the other uses less power but over a greater amount of time. Which is more efficient?

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Old Apr 07, 2011, 02:26 PM
John Foltz
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Woodstock, GA
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by KRIS... View Post
Can anyone give me any links for the elevator/rudder clevises that fit the radian push rods sounds a worthy mod imo

Thanks
I use the Du-Bro Mini E/Z Connector.

Here's a 2 pack but no picture (hence the above link to the 12 pack).

These slip right on the Radian pushrod and then you just tighten the set screw. I then drizzle a drop of CA into the rod hole so it gets on the tightened set screw and seals everything together. I've never had one loosen. When you want to take the stab off or work on the rudder, just remove it from the control horn side (pop the cap off) and leave it attached to the rod permanently.
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 02:37 PM
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United Kingdom, Stoke-on-Trent
Joined Jul 2010
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Thanks i am in the UK are these the same ?

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/..._linkages.html
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Old Apr 07, 2011, 02:38 PM
John Foltz
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Woodstock, GA
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by KRIS... View Post
Thanks i am in the UK are these the same ?

http://www.micronradiocontrol.co.uk/..._linkages.html
Yes, the first item on that page.
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