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Old Dec 08, 2008, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12ten
Maidened my Radian this afternoon.....first time flying and had a great time.


I had a question about determining the CG. The manual says 2.5" from the leading edge of the wing. Do I measure that along the horizontal axis of the fuselage or do I measure following the curve of the underside of the wing?

Also, what is the recommend method to change the control horn linkage as recommended by Kai@UCSB above? I get the z-bend part but am not sure how to you get the bends in the right place so that servo center has the control surface centered.

Last question, how do I estimate flight time? I have the stock 11.1v 1300mAh battery but have no idea how long it is supposed to run. Will the battery just run itself dead if I let it or is some power always conserved for flight control once voltage drops below a certain level?

__________________________________________________ ___________

Thanks for the help and to anyone who is thinking about getting one I definitely recommend it.
Page 11 of the manual shows you how to insert the control rods into the control horns at the rudder and elevator. Insert the rod but do not tighten it. Turn on the radio and power up the plane. Be sure the throttle is at zero.

Be sure the trims by the RIGHT stick are centered.

Now hold the elevator level with the stab and tighten the control horn screw. When you let go, make sure it stayed level.

Do the same with the rudder.



CG is measured as per Step 10 on page 16. Mark a spot under each wing at 2 1/2 inches from the leading edge of the wing right next to the fuselage. Do this on both sides. This is your balance point.

You put in the battery, get everything where it belongs. Put on the canapoy. Now balance the plane on your fingers while they are on the dots. If it does not balance, move the battery pack around till it balances. Mark that spot inside the plane so you can get the battery back to that spot every time.


Step 9 directs you to read the instruction sheet for the ESC, included with the package. There you will read about the BEC, or auto cutoff. This will cut power to the motor when the battery is getting low. This preserves power for the control surfaces so you can control and land the plane even though the battery is too weak to run the motor without damage to the battery. Since this is a glider .... no problem! Compared to the motor, the rest of the electronics take a very tiny amount of power so you will have plenty of time to land the plane.

As for climbs, it depends on how long you climb each time. You should get at least 6 climbs and you might get 10.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 06:16 PM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
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aeajr,

thanks for the reply. regarding the control horns, the technique i was referring to was how to replace the control horn screw devices with z-bends as mentioned by Kai in post 55



Also, is it too early to think about adding ballast? I breezy conditions like today will be norm in the upcoming months of winter.


Thanks
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 06:24 PM
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I see no reason to replace the control horns. If you are concerned about them coming loose, then put a drop of CA on the threads after you final adjust them.

If you are a new pilot you should not be flying in enough wind to need ballast.
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 06:29 PM
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easy enough. thanks!
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Old Dec 08, 2008, 11:59 PM
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Spotted this model 1 week after buying my first TX. Grrr! I bought a DX6i, and now I find this model that comes with the DX5 included. But, for the price and the fact that it comes with the LiPo, charger and RX, I'm thinking of getting the RTF package anyway. Will my DX6i TX work with the 5 channel RX? The DX6 documentation says it works with all receivers, and lists a few, but the 500 RX is not listed.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 05:03 AM
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DX6i will work fine with the Radian receiver. Teh AR500 receiver was not released when they wrote the DX6i manual.

Yes, for a Spectrum radio owner, the RTF package is the best package to buy.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 02:44 PM
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Just been wondering what it'll do in some wind. I got a chance to fly one the other day in completely calm weather.. seemed great, but the wings are a bit flimsy and the TE is Very thick. I wonder if flutter can occur impeding the ablity to penetrate back upwind when unpowered. Any die hard thermal flyers try this one out yet? If so, Id love to hear what you thought.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeajr
I see no reason to replace the control horns. If you are concerned about them coming loose, then put a drop of CA on the threads after you final adjust them.

If you are a new pilot you should not be flying in enough wind to need ballast.
I would suggest to at least drop a CA on the thread.
I have seen, in person, at least 3 easy gliders' control horn got loose and crash. I am more on the safe side and using Z-bends can ensure you won't have loose linkage.

Some of the up-and-down behaviors might due to the non-tighten linkage.

-Kai
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kai@UCSB
I would suggest to at least drop a CA on the thread.
I have seen, in person, at least 3 easy gliders' control horn got loose and crash. I am more on the safe side and using Z-bends can ensure you won't have loose linkage.

Some of the up-and-down behaviors might due to the non-tighten linkage.

-Kai
I have never seen this, and we have a lot of Easy Gliders in our club. But certainly any control linkage can come loose if not tightened properly. And, if you are not going to be taking it on and off, a little thread lock on this kind of adjustable linkage is a good idea. However don't do it till you have the plane will trimmed out as you may need to remove the linkage during the trimming/tuning process to recenter your trims or adjust your throws.


Quote:
Originally Posted by wingsnapper
Just been wondering what it'll do in some wind. I got a chance to fly one the other day in completely calm weather.. seemed great, but the wings are a bit flimsy and the TE is Very thick. I wonder if flutter can occur impeding the ablity to penetrate back upwind when unpowered. Any die hard thermal flyers try this one out yet? If so, Id love to hear what you thought.
Flutter? Flying at thermal soaring speeds? I can't imagine that being an issue.

I have seen flutter on gliders on winch launches. I have even seen flutter on ailerons on powerful h-start launches.

But I have never seen flutter on a R/E electric glider unless the elevator or rudder linkages are VERY loose.

There are no control surfaces on the wing, so what is there to flutter?
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wingsnapper
Just been wondering what it'll do in some wind. I got a chance to fly one the other day in completely calm weather.. seemed great, but the wings are a bit flimsy and the TE is Very thick. I wonder if flutter can occur impeding the ablity to penetrate back upwind when unpowered. Any die hard thermal flyers try this one out yet? If so, Id love to hear what you thought.
I'm with AEAJR on this one, the thicker trailing edge if anything makes the wing more "stout"

I think the flexible wing is plenty strong enough, evidence how we cranked Hilgert's airplane around.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 04:08 PM
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I flew the Radian in about a 10 mph wind. I climbed at full power, did some loops and then went into thermal mode. No problems with any surfaces, flutter or anything else.

Under heavy load the wings will flex, but so what? All but the highest end wings can be made to flex under heavy flying loads. That is pretty normal.

I have seen an Easy Glider, Stock, Full pedal launched off a winch. The wings go into a U shape. This was finished with a zoom off the winch. No flutter and no problems.

The Radian will NEVER see those kinds of forces.
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Old Dec 09, 2008, 11:32 PM
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Yeah I'm talking about flutter in the wing tips not control surfaces inducing drag. I guess it'd require a large amount of speed to do that. Seems like it wouldn't be much trouble for one of these manufacurters to include some sort of glued on composite TE that would allow for a more slick airfoil. Doen't really matter for this plane though.
As eveyone at the field agreed the real strength of this model is the complete package. I don't know why it's taken so long for someone to mass produce a product targeted at novices that's totally complete and flies great right out of the box. I'm not a pro, but I've been flying thermal long enough to know when something is good.I can't really see any thing that one would want to upgrade on this (well..except for the TE). What more can you want? A brushless powered lightweight poly that only requires a piece to tape to get airborne.. reminds me of old Marvel comics quote ('nuff said). 2.4GHz radio, lipo, and balancing lipo charger made the RTF version a no brainer for me. Just had to order one.
Yes Dan, I did get the joke. It's nice to have such a "robust" family name.
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Last edited by wingsnapper; Dec 11, 2008 at 12:41 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 04:02 PM
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I find that when flying with clouds present, this bird gets a bit hard to see and could be easy to loose if you take your eyes off for a few seconds, so I was thinking of adding a HIGH intensity LED bulb on the nose (strobe-style). Anyone know of a thread that explains how to build one?
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 04:08 PM
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Just paint the bottom of the wings dark blue, black or red. You will see it just fine.
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Old Dec 10, 2008, 04:15 PM
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Strobes are always a better choice for visability - the paint thing is a good idea but is still dependent on the ambient lighting. At dusk, all the paint schemes look the same from white to fucia and it's just a silouette - a bright strobe will solve a lot of these problems. So anyone know a good thread on this?
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